dang S&S
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
well so far it's only puked out the overflow when it's been parked and I could see it. With my luck it'll leak while I'm riding and can't see it... and run me out of gas and leave me stranded.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 3,375
From: Cental, MI
S&S is famous [infamous] for that float behavior..Try using a Fuel Pump with one!!! PITA.
Some of the guys make a Fairly large "loop" in the Fuel line..For some reason it makes a difference. An Inline Filter will too, But, I have never found one that doesn't cause too much restriction. Maybe a good thing in your case.
Me? I just go ahead and change the float level [lower] Heck with the Manual..
If you have a High performance [finicky] engine be careful, as it may run slightly lean with a Lower float [fuel level].
Generally tho...Simply leaving today's fuel in the bowl for an extended period makes some kinda "residue" that a good cleaning eliminates...and Bingo! Back to Business...Not contamination in the fuel...just the Crap that is put in it These Days...
Good luck
Some of the guys make a Fairly large "loop" in the Fuel line..For some reason it makes a difference. An Inline Filter will too, But, I have never found one that doesn't cause too much restriction. Maybe a good thing in your case.
Me? I just go ahead and change the float level [lower] Heck with the Manual..
If you have a High performance [finicky] engine be careful, as it may run slightly lean with a Lower float [fuel level].
Generally tho...Simply leaving today's fuel in the bowl for an extended period makes some kinda "residue" that a good cleaning eliminates...and Bingo! Back to Business...Not contamination in the fuel...just the Crap that is put in it These Days...
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
I shoulda rode the Twinkie tonite; went into town and the fork lock ignition switch screwed up on me. Couldn't get it to move from off to the run position. Had to trailer it back home. I've got a new switch w/key, but I've got a bad feeling it's the other part of the assembly that has the issue. Ah well, tomorrow's another day. I'll try the loop in the line trick after I get the switch working. Thanks for the tip !
Last edited by SeaZund; Mar 14, 2015 at 10:14 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 3,375
From: Cental, MI
I shoulda rode the Twinkie tonite; went into town and the fork lock ignition switch screwed up on me. Couldn't get it to move from off to the run position. Had to trailer it back home. I've got a new switch w/key, but I've got a bad feeling it's the other part of the assembly that has the issue. Ah well, tomorrow's another day. I'll try the loop in the line trick after I get the switch working. Thanks for the tip !
That switch gave me such woes [if it is the same on an FLHT].
I ended up modifying it quite a bit...After I came to the conclusion that It should have been better lubricated [the chassis locking parts, not the Switch parts]. Good luck to ya.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,524
Likes: 57,080
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
S&S is famous [infamous] for that float behavior..Try using a Fuel Pump with one!!! PITA.
Some of the guys make a Fairly large "loop" in the Fuel line..For some reason it makes a difference. An Inline Filter will too, But, I have never found one that doesn't cause too much restriction. Maybe a good thing in your case.
Me? I just go ahead and change the float level [lower] Heck with the Manual..
If you have a High performance [finicky] engine be careful, as it may run slightly lean with a Lower float [fuel level].
Generally tho...Simply leaving today's fuel in the bowl for an extended period makes some kinda "residue" that a good cleaning eliminates...and Bingo! Back to Business...Not contamination in the fuel...just the Crap that is put in it These Days...
Good luck
Some of the guys make a Fairly large "loop" in the Fuel line..For some reason it makes a difference. An Inline Filter will too, But, I have never found one that doesn't cause too much restriction. Maybe a good thing in your case.
Me? I just go ahead and change the float level [lower] Heck with the Manual..
If you have a High performance [finicky] engine be careful, as it may run slightly lean with a Lower float [fuel level].
Generally tho...Simply leaving today's fuel in the bowl for an extended period makes some kinda "residue" that a good cleaning eliminates...and Bingo! Back to Business...Not contamination in the fuel...just the Crap that is put in it These Days...
Good luck
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
what i have done riding a stale bike and that happens i turn the fuel off - hold the throttle up a bit get it going and open it wide open when its runing out of fuel - before it stops open the petcock and do it again a few times - i know its sucking the debres into the motor but i have never seen anything in a carb bowl that would keep a valve open after going through the main jet -- this work BTW on the road after getting fuel and you have an issue
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 3,375
From: Cental, MI
what i have done riding a stale bike and that happens i turn the fuel off - hold the throttle up a bit get it going and open it wide open when its runing out of fuel - before it stops open the petcock and do it again a few times - i know its sucking the debres into the motor but i have never seen anything in a carb bowl that would keep a valve open after going through the main jet -- this work BTW on the road after getting fuel and you have an issue
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
the 1926 JD in my picture i finished last july - a week ago i had a buyer so we went to start it for the guy
, the fuel was so dead in the tank and carb the new float would only sink it would not float, and the fuel tanks liquid it was gas i donot think would even burn
so now the new shop rule is to drain every drop we can get out of the standing bikes and remove the carb bottoms and clean -- the 1926 schrieber carb is all Brass and the bowl threads are brass with a brass bowl nut - its 89 years old so now all the fuel in the shop bikes will be cam 2 special
cam 2 make a special fuel for storage machines like power plant motors lawn equiptment that is only used seldom But it 18.00 to 20.00 dollars a gallon - 100 octain
, the fuel was so dead in the tank and carb the new float would only sink it would not float, and the fuel tanks liquid it was gas i donot think would even burn
so now the new shop rule is to drain every drop we can get out of the standing bikes and remove the carb bottoms and clean -- the 1926 schrieber carb is all Brass and the bowl threads are brass with a brass bowl nut - its 89 years old so now all the fuel in the shop bikes will be cam 2 special
cam 2 make a special fuel for storage machines like power plant motors lawn equiptment that is only used seldom But it 18.00 to 20.00 dollars a gallon - 100 octain
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
The fuel in my tank isn't stale, and I pulled the bowl off a few months ago for this same issue and cleaned things up; that's why I leaning more towards crap in the tank getting to the needle valve. Looking down both holes (pulled the sending unit out to fix the fuel gauge), it seems pretty clean.