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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #31  
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what's the gap on those plugs?
maybe carburetor rejetting/rebuild?
I have an S&S on my '78 and it would stall after few interstate miles... I cannot remember if it was the main jet being too small or the float bown set too low
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:32 PM
  #32  
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I have tried .20 & .25 gap. I can not tell a difference between them. As far as the carb goes I just had the carb rebuilt and new jets put in so I have ruled that out but maybe I shouldn't just yet.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:16 PM
  #33  
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Im going through all the step to getting this bike running good and still haven't found the problem yet. So people were saying Vac. leak so I try the propane and nothing happened. When I was at the HD dealer I ask about new seals. So for $6.00 I thought why not. Boy am I sure glad I did. The rings where a hard plastic but I don't know how there sealed up. I cleaned all the rtv off and used the new rubber band style seal. I will need bigger clamps but made do with these cheaper clamps.







 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #34  
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Like the others have mentioned get rid of that fuel filter if the glass breaks and also they have been known to loosen up it could be all over
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #35  
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I have moved on to the next step to get this thing running good. So just a recap I've had the carb rebuild and re-jetted, new blue streak points and condenser, new advance unit, resealed intake, new oil lines, new gas line, 3 sets of plugs and a new solenoid. I was getting spark but maybe there was something I was missing. I dropped the coil and broke a small piece off. It didn't affect the way it worked but I wanted to replace it anyway. After see that there were different coils for points vs electronic ignition I talked myself into a new ignition system. I know nothing about them but keep reading good stuff about dynatek. I ended up getting the Dynatek 2000i. I got it installed today but didn't realize I needed an ignition rotor cup and of coarse the HD dealer doesn't have one in stock. I sure hope this fixes it and all is good.














Part of setting the timing I had to look at the flywheel for tdc. I was told it had a stroker kit when I bought it but had no way to prove it. But there was a number on the flywheel R931-3S. Anybody know what that means? There were also a few more marks.





T:F


 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 10:33 AM
  #36  
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I just called S&S and was told the first part is serial number. Then 3 is for 4 3/4 stroke, SE is for 1955-early 1981 and X is for 8 1/4 diameter flywheel.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 06:24 PM
  #37  
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Well I got everything setup today and by the grace of god it seems to have fixed the issues I was having. I just need to figure out what setting to use. To start out I choose to use Curve 2 and dual fire.



 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:51 PM
  #38  
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I got all of this stuff done and took it for a ride about 30 miles Friday night and all was well. I went out Saturday for a ride and about 10 miles from the house it started acting up. This time I went ahead and keep riding with the group for a total of about 50 miles. I was able to narrow it down little more. I seems to cut out when Im in the higher RPM's. It also seems to happen when I'm staying at the constant speed. If I grab the gas it takes off like normal. If I shift up to the next gear it stops instill the RPM's get higher. I don't have a tachometer to know exactly where it starts at. I didn't notice it be to picky about the speed. Today I drained all the fuel out and removed the petcock. Everything seemed to look good but I blow it out with the air compressor anyway. Still does it. Anyone have any more ideas what to check?
 
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