1980 FXWG Front end....so...umm....is this right?
#1
1980 FXWG Front end....so...umm....is this right?
Folks,
I am about to start the front end on my 1980 FXWG (see my "got me a shovel" thread for details) and have a question.
When I took it apart I took this picture of how the fasteners at the top of the stem all went together:
So from the top of the neck, it should be the bearing, the dust cap, the star nut thing and then the lock washer and stem nut.
But the manual doesn't show the star nut:
It does show Item 10 that they call a "bearing seat". I am thinking this is the same thing - just doesn't look the same.
So anyway - is this right? The star nut goes over the upper dust cover like in this pic, then the top triple tree goes on, then the lock washer and final stem nut.
I think this is how it should be. There's no torque spec for the star nut either - so is it a case of just tighten until it's snug and the stem still rotates without any binding? Then the top tree gets tightened on with the stem nut which pushes it down on the star nut which prevents the torque on stem nut from overloading the bearing?
By the way - I have all new bearing cups and races in the neck and new bearings installed and packed with grease....
I am about to start the front end on my 1980 FXWG (see my "got me a shovel" thread for details) and have a question.
When I took it apart I took this picture of how the fasteners at the top of the stem all went together:
So from the top of the neck, it should be the bearing, the dust cap, the star nut thing and then the lock washer and stem nut.
But the manual doesn't show the star nut:
It does show Item 10 that they call a "bearing seat". I am thinking this is the same thing - just doesn't look the same.
So anyway - is this right? The star nut goes over the upper dust cover like in this pic, then the top triple tree goes on, then the lock washer and final stem nut.
I think this is how it should be. There's no torque spec for the star nut either - so is it a case of just tighten until it's snug and the stem still rotates without any binding? Then the top tree gets tightened on with the stem nut which pushes it down on the star nut which prevents the torque on stem nut from overloading the bearing?
By the way - I have all new bearing cups and races in the neck and new bearings installed and packed with grease....
#2
the star nut is the adjustment to the front fork -- too tight it gets a head shake at 60 plus MPH - too loose it knocks on bumps
the right spot is measured in a flop over of the entire wheel - we bring it up snug if you replaced the races you will or might need to brass mallet, strike the bottom tree after making the adjustment nut tight to seat the races all the way home - if it moves even a little your in - then just enough ( snug ) not tight to not influence the fork is all that is needed
caution tight is not what you want the fork has to free in all its movement
this is in the factory book - re read it
the right spot is measured in a flop over of the entire wheel - we bring it up snug if you replaced the races you will or might need to brass mallet, strike the bottom tree after making the adjustment nut tight to seat the races all the way home - if it moves even a little your in - then just enough ( snug ) not tight to not influence the fork is all that is needed
caution tight is not what you want the fork has to free in all its movement
this is in the factory book - re read it
#3
Thanks John,
I did that, gave it a good wack with a soft mallet to make sure it was all seated and then snugged it up. It's just finger tight and the fork moves freely and smoothly from side to side without any binding. There's no play or slop in it so should be good.
I did reread the manual but all it says is:
Insert the fork stem up through the frame steering headband install the other bearing and upper dust shield and secure with the bearing seat. Tighten the bearing seat until the bearings have no noticeable shake. Also fork stem must turn freely from side to side"
I did that, gave it a good wack with a soft mallet to make sure it was all seated and then snugged it up. It's just finger tight and the fork moves freely and smoothly from side to side without any binding. There's no play or slop in it so should be good.
I did reread the manual but all it says is:
Insert the fork stem up through the frame steering headband install the other bearing and upper dust shield and secure with the bearing seat. Tighten the bearing seat until the bearings have no noticeable shake. Also fork stem must turn freely from side to side"
#4
Can't remember for sure, but I think you have your bearing seat upside down. There's a flat side and a side that fits in the gap created by the dust shield and that lip you have facing up is there to press on the inner race of the upper bearing when it's flipped over. I think. I'm going out right now, but will take a look at mine tonight. Mines also a 1980.
#5
Can't remember for sure, but I think you have your bearing seat upside down. There's a flat side and a side that fits in the gap created by the dust shield and that lip you have facing up is there to press on the inner race of the upper bearing when it's flipped over. I think. I'm going out right now, but will take a look at mine tonight. Mines also a 1980.
I just had another look at it and the gap between the dust shield over the bearing and the stem is no way big enough for the lip on the star nut / bearing seat to fit into.
I had it that way up as I thought that the lip was there to fit into the stem hole in the top triple tree - which it does - but with a little slop.
Anyway - let me know how yours is set up.
Thanks!
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