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Ok...so what do yall consider reasonable compression. I was thinking 10:1 was the high end of reasonable. I have saddle bags. Carrying a bottle of octane boost isnt a big deal.
if I add new pistons, I need to have the lower end rebalanced, right. I was going to do bearings anyway. Just asking.
Last edited by Bill wallace; Sep 16, 2018 at 06:57 AM.
Ok...so what do yall consider reasonable compression. I was thinking 10:1 was the high end of reasonable. I have saddle bags. Carrying a bottle of octane boost isnt a big deal.
if I add new pistons, I need to have the lower end rebalanced, right. I was going to do bearings anyway. Just asking.
just dual plug the heads and if you use 10:1 pistons have the squish set and you wont have to carry octane booster -- I run 11:1 and it doesn't knock - but the compression adds heat and you have to deal with that..
As said... no Substitute for Cubic Inches... especially when torque or Rideability is desired... now Horsepower... Horsepower is a Product of RPM [look at how it is measured] We call it "pops per quarter mile" certainly Not a product of longer stroke.. All of this assumes you know exactly what you intend to accomplish. Drag Racing??? short stroke/big bore spin it hard= Win!!! Fun to ride = Stroker... downside being more stroke equals more vibration, and harder on driveline parts [assuming you actually use it]. A simple compression increase... within reason [no spark knock] along with the correct cam... = good , cheap. Fun!! Downside=No Braggging.
Choose yer poison... only Jap Bike guys Brag about Horsepower!!!! For good reason!!!!
no Substitute for Cubic Inches ... Well, there's always "Cubic Dollars" :>)
Best thing I ever did for my 72 was poke her out to 88" went bigger 3-5/8" bore by 4-1/4" stroke with lighter flywheels @ 9 to 1 comp. Didn't make it into a street racer but the thing was a locomotive and could run 70mph all day long 2 up with gear and in the hills she'd out pull all the evo guys easy, got 60 to 75K between rebuilds on her. With some head work and a bigger cam it was a whole new animal again. Best part was it was direct bolt in no goofiness with stroker plates, longer cylinders and the related headaches fitting everything up to those bring like pipes & intakes, frame clearancing, ect..
Best thing I ever did for my 72 was poke her out to 88" went bigger 3-5/8" bore by 4-1/4" stroke with lighter flywheels @ 9 to 1 comp. Didn't make it into a street racer but the thing was a locomotive and could run 70mph all day long 2 up with gear and in the hills she'd out pull all the evo guys easy, got 60 to 75K between rebuilds on her. With some head work and a bigger cam it was a whole new animal again. Best part was it was direct bolt in no goofiness with stroker plates, longer cylinders and the related headaches fitting everything up to those bring like pipes & intakes, frame clearancing, ect..
its been a life time since I used stroker plates all the old guys know all about them - but they in the time that has gone by - they did not make the pistons with a relocated wrist pin hole like we have now to keep the engine height the same - those days with heating frames / grinding the bottoms even seen some guys bend them to get the engine in and the vibes because the rear head is sitting on the frame guess whats right on top of that idea - glad we do what we do and have done forever it seems now
and engine mileage numbers come out the same stroker verses big bore but of course its who is driving the machine that makes it last -
no Substitute for Cubic Inches ... Well, there's always "Cubic Dollars" :>)
BTDT
Unless yer competing especially heads-up.. I don't recommend that Method... LOL
Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Best thing I ever did for my 72 was poke her out to 88" went bigger 3-5/8" bore by 4-1/4" stroke with lighter flywheels @ 9 to 1 comp. Didn't make it into a street racer but the thing was a locomotive and could run 70mph all day long 2 up with gear and in the hills she'd out pull all the evo guys easy, got 60 to 75K between rebuilds on her. With some head work and a bigger cam it was a whole new animal again. Best part was it was direct bolt in no goofiness with stroker plates, longer cylinders and the related headaches fitting everything up to those bring like pipes & intakes, frame clearancing, ect..
Sounds like a Good Move..I have had just a Bigger Bore... not worth it IMO, I have had only a bit of Stroke [like the 84/86 inchers of old] Decent compromise... but Not Worth it IMO, I have had bore and stroke, like described... very fun...
Anymore... If I want Performance.. I learned the Hard way... get an EVO... My shovels hang around 9: 1 [measured] compression, with a Mild Cam... even an H seems to like a bit of compression..Been riding around happily for many years this way. Since finally coming to the conclusion, aided by countless trips down Track, that EVO is Cheap, Easy, performance... and If ya can't afford that... About any Jap bike is cheapest.. biggest Performance.. I ride happily along on my "Antique".....
Even an old 1200 FLH with a number 1 cam, is unbelievably fun..
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Ok...so what do y’all consider “reasonable” compression. I was thinking 10:1 was the high end of “reasonable.” I have saddle bags. Carrying a bottle of octane boost isn’t a big deal.
if I add new pistons, I need to have the lower end rebalanced, right. I was going to do bearings anyway. Just asking.
was reminiscing about this very thing... had a Customer purchase a set of jugs and pistons once... he simply throwed 'em on [I guess it wasn't that big, as he did Not Open the cases].
Bigger bore for sure tho... Nothing bad .. in fact, it was surprisingly smooth... always wished we could have torn that engine down just to see the resultant balance factor!!!!
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