Static Timing - 1975 FXE
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 241
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From: Syracuse IN
Static Timing - 1975 FXE
Decided to check the tune today so pulled the cover and checked the points, they looked like new so pulled some 1000 grit paper through just to freshen, checked the gap and all is fine.
Was reading about static timing and ran across instructions 5 posts down at this site:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29635
Of particular interest was the indication that TDC on my bike (1975) is when the small dot on the lower side appears in the timing window, and to set the points to open with the flywheel in that position.
Per the post, "stock flywheels up through early 1980 have a small drilled dot low in the timing hole for the TDC mark"
I thought that TDC was when the vertical line appeared in the timing window, so that's where I had the points opening before.
According to these instructions, I had the timing wrong.
Thinking I might have a quicker starting and better running machine if I fixed the timing, I set it so the backside of the lower dot was even with the backside of the timing window.
Now I can't get even a sputter unless I use a shot of ether, and even then it's two fires and back to kicking my tail off.
So I'm guessing the information in this fellow's post is inaccurate, or I did something significantly wrong in the setup.
Was reading about static timing and ran across instructions 5 posts down at this site:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29635
Of particular interest was the indication that TDC on my bike (1975) is when the small dot on the lower side appears in the timing window, and to set the points to open with the flywheel in that position.
Per the post, "stock flywheels up through early 1980 have a small drilled dot low in the timing hole for the TDC mark"
I thought that TDC was when the vertical line appeared in the timing window, so that's where I had the points opening before.
According to these instructions, I had the timing wrong.
Thinking I might have a quicker starting and better running machine if I fixed the timing, I set it so the backside of the lower dot was even with the backside of the timing window.
Now I can't get even a sputter unless I use a shot of ether, and even then it's two fires and back to kicking my tail off.
So I'm guessing the information in this fellow's post is inaccurate, or I did something significantly wrong in the setup.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
first you need to confirm what is tdc and what is the advance mark you use to set it static
put a screw driver #2 in the front plug hole and rotate with the rear tire in 4th gear forward, till the advance line < maybe - appears and the screw driver is not all the way up
what ever is in the center of the hole do this - put a 3/8 hose in the rear plug hole and you want to add air - IF you hear air escaping into the carb you are in the spot you need to be for static timing - if the air blows back out of the rear plug hole - or the rear wheel moves - you need to turn the engine one more time around 360* and try that again you need the rear intake valve to be partly open to do this < when this is correct you are firing on the front cylinder
now its simple from this spot - turn the advance unit to full advance - at this exact spot the points will just brake AND switch on the ignition - one plug or both if you want - the wire with a plug in between the cylinders - just as the advance is at full while turning it the plug will fire - if not adjust the plate to achieve - tighten reassemble - and ride it
put a screw driver #2 in the front plug hole and rotate with the rear tire in 4th gear forward, till the advance line < maybe - appears and the screw driver is not all the way up
what ever is in the center of the hole do this - put a 3/8 hose in the rear plug hole and you want to add air - IF you hear air escaping into the carb you are in the spot you need to be for static timing - if the air blows back out of the rear plug hole - or the rear wheel moves - you need to turn the engine one more time around 360* and try that again you need the rear intake valve to be partly open to do this < when this is correct you are firing on the front cylinder
now its simple from this spot - turn the advance unit to full advance - at this exact spot the points will just brake AND switch on the ignition - one plug or both if you want - the wire with a plug in between the cylinders - just as the advance is at full while turning it the plug will fire - if not adjust the plate to achieve - tighten reassemble - and ride it
Last edited by johnjzjz; Apr 28, 2019 at 09:46 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
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From: Cental, MI
Pretty reliable method, but, I won't use a Screwdriver anymore... a Plastic straw does same job, but won't get Jammed up if heavy valve springs cause rotational pressure..
While a Thumb over the Spark Plug hole will generally tell ya if yer on Compression stroke, and an Ohm meter is the way I check for points just opening at Full advance of mechanical unit..
Pretty close to the Same net result, so do what seems easier to Follow... Done.
Of course if ya live in CommieFornia... you won't probably be locating any Plastic Straws... May have to cut and Form a Water Bottle!!!! LOL
While a Thumb over the Spark Plug hole will generally tell ya if yer on Compression stroke, and an Ohm meter is the way I check for points just opening at Full advance of mechanical unit..
Pretty close to the Same net result, so do what seems easier to Follow... Done.
Of course if ya live in CommieFornia... you won't probably be locating any Plastic Straws... May have to cut and Form a Water Bottle!!!! LOL
Last edited by Racepres; Apr 29, 2019 at 01:09 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
Pretty reliable method, but, I won't use a Screwdriver anymore... a Plastic straw does same job, but won't get Jammed up if heavy valve springs cause rotational pressure..
While a Thumb over the Spark Plug hole will generally tell ya if yer on Compression stroke, and an Ohm meter is the way I check for points just opening at Full advance of mechanical unit..
Pretty close to the Same net result, so do what seems easier to Follow... Done.
Of course if ya live in CommieFornia... you won't probably be locating any Plastic Straws... May have to cut and Form a Water Bottle!!!! LOL
While a Thumb over the Spark Plug hole will generally tell ya if yer on Compression stroke, and an Ohm meter is the way I check for points just opening at Full advance of mechanical unit..
Pretty close to the Same net result, so do what seems easier to Follow... Done.
Of course if ya live in CommieFornia... you won't probably be locating any Plastic Straws... May have to cut and Form a Water Bottle!!!! LOL
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 241
Likes: 33
From: Syracuse IN
need a bit more clarity on static timing.
I'll make sure that the intake valve has just closed on the front cylinder, then rotate the flywheel with the rear wheel in 4th gear
I'll have the TDC mark (for my '75 the small dot on lower side of timing window) positioned such that the back side of the mark is even with the backside of the timing window.
To set timing, I not only have to rotate the points block clockwise until the points just begin to open, I also have to do this while holding the advance mechanism weights at full advance?
Want to get it right this time.
The bike is a stock 74 cube.
Will a timing light result in significantly better results?
I have one, along with the clear plastic plug to keep oil from spraying all over the garage.
But the neighbors will not in any way appreciate drag pipes (with Khrome Werks baffles) being held at 2,000 RPM while I'm setting the timing.
I'll make sure that the intake valve has just closed on the front cylinder, then rotate the flywheel with the rear wheel in 4th gear
I'll have the TDC mark (for my '75 the small dot on lower side of timing window) positioned such that the back side of the mark is even with the backside of the timing window.
To set timing, I not only have to rotate the points block clockwise until the points just begin to open, I also have to do this while holding the advance mechanism weights at full advance?
Want to get it right this time.
The bike is a stock 74 cube.
Will a timing light result in significantly better results?
I have one, along with the clear plastic plug to keep oil from spraying all over the garage.
But the neighbors will not in any way appreciate drag pipes (with Khrome Werks baffles) being held at 2,000 RPM while I'm setting the timing.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
well f the neighbors - if it was me I would install a 5 gallon metal can on the open pipe lawn mower and cut the grass at 3am with a flashlight rubber banded to my head
they never again will complain ask me how I know this
you use the advance mark and rotate the advance unit to total -- at that exact spot the plug sparks is the spot to lock it up and call it done
they never again will complain ask me how I know this
you use the advance mark and rotate the advance unit to total -- at that exact spot the plug sparks is the spot to lock it up and call it done
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 241
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From: Syracuse IN
Holy cow - the board moderator needs to 'sticky' that post.... quite the picture you pain there John!
Haven't laughed that hard in quite a while. Brought tears to my eyes.
If Chevy Chase does any more 'Vacation' movies, that should definitely be a Cousin Eddie scene.
Thanks for confirming the advance weight question.
Haven't laughed that hard in quite a while. Brought tears to my eyes.
If Chevy Chase does any more 'Vacation' movies, that should definitely be a Cousin Eddie scene.
Thanks for confirming the advance weight question.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
Holy cow - the board moderator needs to 'sticky' that post.... quite the picture you pain there John!
Haven't laughed that hard in quite a while. Brought tears to my eyes.
If Chevy Chase does any more 'Vacation' movies, that should definitely be a Cousin Eddie scene.
Thanks for confirming the advance weight question.
Haven't laughed that hard in quite a while. Brought tears to my eyes.
If Chevy Chase does any more 'Vacation' movies, that should definitely be a Cousin Eddie scene.
Thanks for confirming the advance weight question.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 187
Likes: 9
Axle--when you set the timing by way of the dot at the rear of the hole , you don't advance the the timing weights. When you set by the dot, you are timing the bike in the retarded position. You advance the timing weights when you set the timing by way of the slash in the center of the hole. The owners' manual states that "setting by way of the dot should only be done in an emergency and run that way for a short period of time until advanced timing can be accomplished via a strobe light" ( paraphrase).
So, if you can't do it by strobe, be sure to: 1. set the point gap on the compression stroke of the front cylinder 2. Then line up the slash in the center of the timing hole 3.advance the timing weights and 4. set the points to open using your test light with the timing weights in the advanced position. This should get you real close. However, the most accurate way to time is with a strobe light using the slash mark in the center of the hole. Also, when using the strobe, set the timing so that the slash apperas at 2000 rpms.
So, if you can't do it by strobe, be sure to: 1. set the point gap on the compression stroke of the front cylinder 2. Then line up the slash in the center of the timing hole 3.advance the timing weights and 4. set the points to open using your test light with the timing weights in the advanced position. This should get you real close. However, the most accurate way to time is with a strobe light using the slash mark in the center of the hole. Also, when using the strobe, set the timing so that the slash apperas at 2000 rpms.