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Wiring 72 FLH

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Old May 10, 2019 | 06:55 AM
  #11  
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Here is a slightly different take on John Z`s wiring method, it adds a 5 pin Bosch relay, which will greatly decrease the amount of current going through the starter switch.

 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 07:05 AM
  #12  
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All that "stuff" to maybe prevent run on...and Maybe Not... Only time I ever actually experienced Run On, was a Friend who insisted he did Not need a new Battery, and due to low Voltage, welded the Washer in the solenoid... I do Not see how the same situation would not occur with the "relay" shown, which is basically the same "washer" setup..
What am I missing here???
to go with this... I have never had a bosch relay "stick", and I have many times used the normally closed "loop" in the bosch to run the Lighting circuit [on lights on always applications]


Edit to add, This
Originally Posted by Island Dude
The bike started life as a FLH, now a stripped bobber.
Tells me a Harness is a waste of time and money... Wire it up like an FX sans Signals... Or use one of the Untold Hundreds of "chopper" schematics... even Cartoons if that is your skill level...
 

Last edited by Racepres; May 10, 2019 at 07:09 AM.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 07:23 AM
  #13  
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From: la la land jerzey
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Here is a slightly different take on John Z`s wiring method, it adds a 5 pin Bosch relay, which will greatly decrease the amount of current going through the starter switch.

the left side of the board has the bosch realy and I also to the right of it is the early first edition relay for originality as its seen on a real piece the rest is not seen
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 07:30 AM
  #14  
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From: la la land jerzey
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Originally Posted by Racepres
All that "stuff" to maybe prevent run on...and Maybe Not... Only time I ever actually experienced Run On, was a Friend who insisted he did Not need a new Battery, and due to low Voltage, welded the Washer in the solenoid... I do Not see how the same situation would not occur with the "relay" shown, which is basically the same "washer" setup..
What am I missing here???
to go with this... I have never had a bosch relay "stick", and I have many times used the normally closed "loop" in the bosch to run the Lighting circuit [on lights on always applications]


Edit to add,


Tells me a Harness is a waste of time and money... Wire it up like an FX sans Signals... Or use one of the Untold Hundreds of "chopper" schematics... even Cartoons if that is your skill level...
and that's the reason we all have an opinion and can post it - I just happen to have one in the shop right now that just did that last week

you live a charmed life --- enjoy it - embrace it - while the rest suffer through the evils of reality

 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 07:54 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
and that's the reason we all have an opinion and can post it - I just happen to have one in the shop right now that just did that last week

you live a charmed life --- enjoy it - embrace it - while the rest suffer through the evils of reality
But... you have not addressed my concerns that either relay or Solenoid of that type can weld Shut... which creates run on.. I can see the Solenoid in your deal cannot run on without the relay... but... a stuck relay is same same..
Enlightenment please..
Snide don't work on me...


Edit to add; This
is something I would consider if I were that scared of run on... and there have been times I wish I would have had it that had Nothing to do with run on... we're talking bonehead moves... like getting the "hot" wire between the chassis and the Lift..... OOOOPs!!!
 

Last edited by Racepres; May 10, 2019 at 09:26 AM.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:24 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Here is a slightly different take on John Z`s wiring method, it adds a 5 pin Bosch relay, which will greatly decrease the amount of current going through the starter switch.

Pretty much what I have been doing but left out the ford solenoid....( you have it in drawing as a relay ). I think if I was doing a restoration it would be your way as we can hid bosh style relay. Never thought about electric start only ones. The one time I had one hang I kicked it loose. Thanks for drawings.....not new to this stuff but like too see others take on it.
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:27 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
ok I get what you did and yes like I said some never do it BUT - I have had them come to the shop 1/2 burnt to the ground when this happened and no tools handy - no kicker to over ride it - and no way to remove the seat - then having a new AGM battery and thats all that is needed to loose the bike

its a safety thing not one electric start restoration we have done in 20 plus years leaves the shop with out having it wired this way

I am doing one right now a self repaired wire harness 1972 that the guy did not think he needed the neutral switch

well it stuck the trans was in first gear the bike was chained to the wall - he stuck a metal bar in the spokes to stop it - it broke the chain that in turn tore the chain guard off the bike and snapped 3 spokes it melted a couple wires

THE bike was marvin gays bike - we have pictures of it with big daddy ed roth after he had it painted by him in the 70s - 5 dimension's deep in 7 colors and the dominate color is blue - cant get how he did it but he was ed roth that's how
Ouch......most mishaps don’t bother me if nobody gets hurt......but that’s a piece of history most of us will never own or see.
I am guilty of simply wiring no nothing......but never for a customer....
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:31 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
But... you have not addressed my concerns that either relay or Solenoid of that type can weld Shut... which creates run on.. I can see the Solenoid in your deal cannot run on without the relay... but... a stuck relay is same same..
Enlightenment please..
Snide don't work on me...


Edit to add; This
is something I would consider if I were that scared of run on... and there have been times I wish I would have had it that had Nothing to do with run on... we're talking bonehead moves... like getting the "hot" wire between the chassis and the Lift..... OOOOPs!!!
Funny you should post that switch....been hiding them in customer collector cars for years. Keep and extra plastic key in my bike and service truck.....
 

Last edited by Bumpandrun; May 10, 2019 at 09:52 AM.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:37 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bumpandrun
Funny you should post that switch....been hiding them in collector cars for years. Keep and extra plastic key in my bike and service truck.....
Yea... the bit of security [small bit] is something I do Not require... but... others have utilized that part as well...
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 05:36 PM
  #20  
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From: la la land jerzey
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your switch does the same thing as the way I wire the collectables BUT to me it looks stupid on a real restored machine - BUT the ford type relay is a 50 amp unit USA made and the small box relays are said to be 30 so the amount of copper one to the other is what we looked at

the large amount of copper windings in the ford unit snap the current to the starter - and too me the starter turns faster right off the bat

also the heat attributed to the connection is greatly reduce ( your switch does nothing to prevent any of this ) 2 things happen ( you can believe what you want you have a set way of doing things I get it ) the connection gets greater amps in the beginning snap from the ford relay and this gets the mechanism spinning faster at the start - simple you have your way I have mine
 
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