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John will chime in, see if yours is a candidate for a reed valve breather, could save some headaches there.
Cam wise check out competition cams they make some great hydraulic cams for shovels, come in around 1500rpm and make power up through the mid ranges where a shovel lives, quiets down the valve train too.
before the S&S over size .030 and the reed breather were invented - we use to machine a brass bushing bore the case install and bore again to stock size and then drill and cut the vent hole before finish honing
the scores in your block an .030 may not fix it clean enough to seal with a new breather - light scoring you can get away with a reed breather but that one is beyond in my opinion - it had seized and then broken in 1/2 it probably is also out of round - having said that we would use the tool and see what happens
I will say if we had the cam cover off we would install a steel breather - no matter who said they have one for 100,000 miles < seen this many times over the years
before the S&S over size .030 and the reed breather were invented - we use to machine a brass bushing bore the case install and bore again to stock size and then drill and cut the vent hole before finish honing
the scores in your block an .030 may not fix it clean enough to seal with a new breather - light scoring you can get away with a reed breather but that one is beyond in my opinion - it had seized and then broken in 1/2 it probably is also out of round - having said that we would use the tool and see what happens
I will say if we had the cam cover off we would install a steel breather - no matter who said they have one for 100,000 miles < seen this many times over the years
I wouldn't put a cover back on till that plastic gear got tossed, pissed off a few owners over that.
before the S&S over size .030 and the reed breather were invented - we use to machine a brass bushing bore the case install and bore again to stock size and then drill and cut the vent hole before finish honing
the scores in your block an .030 may not fix it clean enough to seal with a new breather - light scoring you can get away with a reed breather but that one is beyond in my opinion - it had seized and then broken in 1/2 it probably is also out of round - having said that we would use the tool and see what happens
I will say if we had the cam cover off we would install a steel breather - no matter who said they have one for 100,000 miles < seen this many times over the years
Thanks, John for your advice, I was hoping I could "glue" a reed breather in, but apparently that won't work. So now, I'm not clear on what tool you would use?
I got the new rod set. The box wasn't in good shape when it arrived, but the parts look OK:
I had a couple of days to work on it and I got the primary case off. After I clean off my work bench, @Uncle Larry, I'll pull what's left of the motor and put it on the stand.
First remove foot peg, shifter and outer primary. The previous owner installed an aluminum pressure plate and 5-stud clutch. But I think the chain adjuster shoe is backwards?
Big washer to compress the clutch springs and remove the pressure plate as an assembly:
I had a bear of a time removing the compensator nut. I tried heating it with propane and a 1/2" drive breaker bar, but it just flexed the breaker bar and didn't loosen. Then I broke out the oxy/acetylene and that didn't work either. I tried my Snap-On 100psi impact wrench and even that didn't work.. So I borrowed a friend's 3/4" drive and a 4-foot cheater and it finally gave in!
Whoever was in there last used RED LOCTITE! Gaaahhh!
The splines look good, but the nut is shot. The damage was done before I got there, but I turned it purple.
Clutch hub came off without any drama. I locked the rear wheel and put it in gear to use the puller. The studs are dirty but smooth, and will clean up well.
Removed solenoid and starter following the shop manual. This looks like a newer solenoid, because there are only three terminal posts and the manual shows four.
These bolts weren't too difficult, good to see someone added a ground cable. I had to cut the hoses to get the inner primary off, so it'll be fun to put new hoses back in.
With all the other bolts out, the inner primary came off easily. The inner primary bearing stayed where it belonged, on the main shaft, and the shift linkage came out without too much trouble:
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