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Eh ... ? Looks like a early 70-ies setup... but with it not having the shovel lope.. weird. Maybe the timing is too far advanced ? Bike runs great though...
I think my book is from August 82.
Eh ... ? Looks like a early 70-ies setup... but with it not having the shovel lope.. weird. Maybe the timing is too far advanced ? Bike runs great though...
I think my book is from August 82.
LOL... Points was certainly Previous to the '70's!!
Be Sure to Maintain the mechanical advance unit...and do Not worry about the sound... if it is running well... cool...
BTW how are you checking the RPM??
Inquiring Minds want to know..
And ... You are Not going to do anything except Advance that timing Plate... It seems to be at Maximum Retard.
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 19, 2020 at 08:17 AM.
Just to clarify for you. You do not have an Ignition Module because that has been retrofitted to good old Coil and Points. Coil and Points are 1977 and earlier.
ETA: Also my manual has the same part number as the OP but has -84 in place of the -82 on his book. The first page has a date of 4/88, but my books Part Number is: 99482-84
LOL... Points was certainly Previous to the '70's!!
Be Sure to Maintain the mechanical advance unit...and do Not worry about the sound... if it is running well... cool...
BTW how are you checking the RPM??
Inquiring Minds want to know..
And ... You are Not going to do anything except Advance that timing Plate... It seems to be at Maximum Retard.
Ditto.
The gap of the points will determine where the advance plate is positioned as far as timing adjustment is concerned, somewhat. That is, the wider the gap, the sooner they open, the higher the timing will be at a given point plate position.
Tighter the point gap, the lower timing will be at a given point plate position.
Gap points correctly before checking/adjusting the timing (points) plate. Point gap/timing affects dwell which dictates how much voltage the coil can or will put out. It all works together - or is supposed to....
Since the weather is nice for only a few more weeks Im not going to mess with it now. But I will take it apart and see whats going on, that the bike does not have the typical lope concerns me. I also dont like the points plate being rotated all the way to max advance or retard, I am suspicious something is wrong. I havent seen the advance mechanism but will check that out too. As an engimeer I am not impressed by the timing being dependent on the lobes on the shaft having equal height... I can always put a simple Dynatec in...
The Advance weights may have "egged out" holes, broken / unhooked springs, etc. It looks like an aftermarket plate set. The Advance weights wear out, even O.E.M. but aftermarket are much more prone to early failure. You are going to have to study just how to time your bike. The timing marks have changed a few times. I always used a Timing Light with Coil and Point setups but there are ways to do it statically.
I would say the Timing is the culprit for your idle sound issue, and whatever caused the timing issue; bad Mechanical Advance mechanism, incorrectly gapped points, etc. Once you determine that the mechanical advance is OK, then make sure your Points gap is close on both lobes, i.e. .018" and .019" would be OK but .018" and .033" would not. There are methods to correct that if that becomes an issue.
I would go ahead and take it apart and see what is what. All you have to do is put it back together with the plate rotated just as it is. It is running that way now, it will run that way again.
The gap of the points will determine where the advance plate is positioned as far as timing adjustment is concerned, somewhat. That is, the wider the gap, the sooner they open, the higher the timing will be at a given point plate position.
Tighter the point gap, the lower timing will be at a given point plate position.
Gap points correctly before checking/adjusting the timing (points) plate. Point gap/timing affects dwell which dictates how much voltage the coil can or will put out. It all works together - or is supposed to....
What???
Do You Read the Manual... Oops... you need a pre 1978 Manual..
That Plate is Slotted for a reason... Look into it...
You have a very Round-about Interpretation..You set the gap... Properly, at the widest [tallest] point of the Lobe... Both of them if you know how..
Then set the Opening ... beginning of opening, with the position [rotation] of the points Plate... a very simple operation...
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 19, 2020 at 07:50 PM.
What???
Do You Read the Manual... Oops... you need a pre 1978 Manual..
That Plate is Slotted for a reason... Look into it...
You have a very Round-about Interpretation..You set the gap... Properly, at the widest [tallest] point of the Lobe... Both of them if you know how..
Then set the Opening ... beginning of opening, with the position [rotation] of the points Plate... a very simple operation...
LOL, yeah I guess that may have sounded f'd up but what I said is "correct" so far as how I said it.
Assuming you start with a point gap set correctly and the timing is set correctly... then without moving the base plate...
if the points wear or are adjusted closer, then the final timing at the plugs will be retarded from where it was.
(again, from the all correct settings initially) you widen the point gap, the timing will be advanced, from where it was.
I was looking at the plate clocked all the way CCW is what inspired my ramblings. That far off, I wouldn't rule out an advanced cam or installed off a tooth...
Hope the OP doesn't read this and add to whatever confusion I've already posted ........ and I'd feel neglected if I didn't get called down at least once a week
LOL, yeah I guess that may have sounded f'd up but what I said is "correct" so far as how I said it.
Assuming you start with a point gap set correctly and the timing is set correctly... then without moving the base plate...
if the points wear or are adjusted closer, then the final timing at the plugs will be retarded from where it was.
(again, from the all correct settings initially) you widen the point gap, the timing will be advanced, from where it was.
I was looking at the plate clocked all the way CCW is what inspired my ramblings. That far off, I wouldn't rule out an advanced cam or installed off a tooth...
Hope the OP doesn't read this and add to whatever confusion I've already posted ........ and I'd feel neglected if I didn't get called down at least once a week
All Good, and you do have a working knowledge... just an odd way of Sharing it...
Hopefully the OP gets an Earlier [points] manual or better yet... a really experienced, and friendly, Indy
Or... Get back to where that Bike deserves to be... stock ignitions are not that bad...certainly the post 1984...
Maintenance Free as well... I have even Drag Raced... quite well, with Stock ignition set-up....
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........ and I'd feel neglected if I didn't get called down at least once a week 
