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Ok , so I'm lazily rebuilding my 77 shovel. Cylinders and heads at the machinist......so what to do in the meantime?
Well, I got to rebuilding the oil pump and had an epiphany that HAS to be boneheaded. There is a crankcase vent that tends to puke oil after the feed line seeps through the check ball and pools in the crankcase. There is a separate oil tank and primary vent line at the top of the case.
1. So, is it possible to route the crankcase vent straight up to the where the primary and oil tank vent lines connect? .
2. Would it be possible to put a one way check valve in the upper vent line, before the primary T joint, to prevent the oil from the crankcase being dumped back into the engine through the oil tank vent line? My thought here is to pump the collected oil back into the tank instead of the garage floor.
3. I actually put in an oil shutoff on the feedline to prevent seepage, I have the crankcase vented to my rear chain to spray oil. I also have a rather sophisticated method of seating the oil check ball to prevent seepage. As you all know, the ball WILL leak over time.
what you do is if you removed the oil pump - you can use a 3/8 push rod with valve grinding compound and lap a seat into the ball cavity - that checks the oil in the first place so it stops or almost stops the oil passing by at will - usually when no ones looking and its alone for a while - this cannot be done with the oil pump in place
then you add a PCV valve to the vent fitting at the block sort of close to it and then run another line 3/8 hose from the PCV up and over the oil tank with the other 2 Lines that go up to the top of the tank - the PCV is a one way and the air must escape not be trapped in to engine
what you asked about putting the engine vent into the oil tank will cause oil to hemorrhage from every gasket - - dont do that
S and S pumps are expensive, and require drilling holes in the stock case. Not sure I want to do that.
I was thinking that with proper venting of the oil tank, a valve similar to this might allow pooled oil in the crankcase back in the oil tank, and then vent the engine without overpressure. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
I figured this was boneheaded simply because it seems to me someone would have thought of this before. I am well aware of grinding the ball seat in the pump. And, in fact, do it pretty often on buddies bikes. Seems like there is always a little seepage no matter what.
I don't believe those little canisters at the end of the vent line do a thing. They simply fill with oil, then leak. I route mine to spray oil on the final drive chain. I don't understand the purpose of the Gwaltney PVC valve. Oil getting back into the engine isn't the issue.
I simply installed a valve in the gravity feed line to the pump for any long term storage. That nips it in the bud, and by having the handle in the off position point out, it hits my leg and I have never forgotten to turn it on.
. I use both of these to reseat the check ball. The big one is a 3/8 bolt with check ball welded perfectly straight on. The one on the right is a a hand tool for fine grinding the seat.
I chuck the 3/8 into my lathe and use fine grinding compound to reseat the ball.
To finish, I use the small diameter hand tool to careful probe for imperfections, check the seat, then do final hand grinding with the 3/8 bolt tool. I use this Lowes bought ball valve to shut off the oil. With the handle off and pointing out, It instantly gets in the way of my leg if I'm sitting, or using the kicker. Pushing it forward opens the valve. Doesn't leak a drop. Looks kind of Steam punk in my opinion.
my shovel was sumping over a month so itried re-seating it, even bought the factory seating cutter but never cured it so I got an S&S pump,
drilled the one hole required by removing the rear tappet block, putting a dollop of grease on the inner case wall to catch any swarf & it was done in an hour.
got an oil filter cover on it & it never sumps anymore at all,
yes a new S&S oil pump isn't cheap, but on old pump will kill a motor real fast, & now if original they are over 40 years old so a new one is a long term money saver in my book.
If you forget the ball valve thing - good buy to the engine 10 minuets later
100s of machines we have done major engine work to use the PCV system for a real reason - as well as many on this site it will control the excess oil in the engine instead of blowing it out
but this is the internet and everyone has an opinion - just like me in the 2 weeks i am doing this
another thing we throw all the S&S pumps we find on real machines right into the garbage as they6 need flow not evo oil pressure - but again its my opinion
You have a shut off valve for the feed line to the pump so why would you reroute oil lines lines when your bike cannot sump while sitting there. Oil is not going to pass your ball seat with the valve closed.
If you are summing on start up then something else is going on.
The valve Johnjzjz posted acts as a PCV valve, crankcase pressure out, no atmosphere being sucked back in. This reduces crankcase pressure which is a very good thing.
I really appreciate all the replies. My bike, as previously stated, really doesn't have a puddling/sumping issue. The shut off valve, and the work on the pump cured that. I may add the PVC valve to vent line.
It was really my intent on starting this thread to get input on the routing back to the oil tank of the vent line. I can see where if it returned to the tank w/o some sort of control it would blow gaskets.
I have to wonder if the PVC valve is strong enough to prevent the overpressure.
Anyone know how much pressure is coming out of the breather vent? A car is only 2-3 lbs.
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bonehead oil question
