wrong flywheel marks on my 1983??
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Cruiser
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From: omaha NE
Having oddball marks doesn't mean it has 74" wheels.
The single window cups were silver as were some of the first (factory) 2 window cups but most of the 2's were gold colored after the first runs, if you happen to remember that much when you put the ignition on... Just be sure it was on TDC compression stroke of the front cylinder when static timing.
If you try to time it with a strobe light, you need to ground the violet wire from the module. Otherwise you may have to go way higher than 2000 rpm to ever have a chance of finding the advance mark. Depends where the switches are set on the module.
The single window cups were silver as were some of the first (factory) 2 window cups but most of the 2's were gold colored after the first runs, if you happen to remember that much when you put the ignition on... Just be sure it was on TDC compression stroke of the front cylinder when static timing.
If you try to time it with a strobe light, you need to ground the violet wire from the module. Otherwise you may have to go way higher than 2000 rpm to ever have a chance of finding the advance mark. Depends where the switches are set on the module.
OK, thanks. Yea I have the violet wire grounded, the cup was gold I do remember that. I'll let you guys know once I get the timing light on it. Appreciate the responses.
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From: la la land jerzey
Its been around 50 years anything can happen - we see the crazy **** all the time
just took apart a pan motor with an evo oil pump not molded for the engine - a end oil pinion shaft in a side oil engine with a side oil cam cover and the weep hole not plugged - also had a knuckle breather valve < yes the timing is way different - and the amazing thing - the rods were in backwards the male rod was connected to the rear piston
it does look like it was running dont know how well
just took apart a pan motor with an evo oil pump not molded for the engine - a end oil pinion shaft in a side oil engine with a side oil cam cover and the weep hole not plugged - also had a knuckle breather valve < yes the timing is way different - and the amazing thing - the rods were in backwards the male rod was connected to the rear piston
it does look like it was running dont know how well
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Cruiser
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From: omaha NE
[QUOTE=johnjzjz;20406982]Its been around 50 years anything can happen - we see the crazy **** all the time/QUOTE]
so you are saying it COULD be the wrong flywheels. How would that even work if they were 74's? It would be super low compression I would think.
so you are saying it COULD be the wrong flywheels. How would that even work if they were 74's? It would be super low compression I would think.
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From: la la land jerzey
We dont know for sure how you know what you came to believe - as if it was local to me we both would know in 10 minuets exactly what you have
ok 74 wheels are the same diameter - once 1973 came along all engines are end oilers - shafts and rods all inter change 1974 to early 1981 - then its to 1985 in shovel then its evo rods going forwards lower unit swaps out easy
pistons and jugs - you did not post what you have but if its standard bore or .010 over 80 inch jugs - the .060 is std 80 inch bore and .070 is 80 inch .0i0 3-7/16 pistons
so 74 wheels with a 070 - 3.3/16 bore pistons bolts in with 74 wheels and 80 inch jugs and heads - cam is the same thing - it all works
normally we see it the other with 80 inch wheels in a 74 engine with 80 inch parts - dont sweat it your taking 3 or 4 HP and almost no torque change as the wheels weigh the same - your not going to scare any one with 6 cubes and 8 to 1 compression
ok 74 wheels are the same diameter - once 1973 came along all engines are end oilers - shafts and rods all inter change 1974 to early 1981 - then its to 1985 in shovel then its evo rods going forwards lower unit swaps out easy
pistons and jugs - you did not post what you have but if its standard bore or .010 over 80 inch jugs - the .060 is std 80 inch bore and .070 is 80 inch .0i0 3-7/16 pistons
so 74 wheels with a 070 - 3.3/16 bore pistons bolts in with 74 wheels and 80 inch jugs and heads - cam is the same thing - it all works
normally we see it the other with 80 inch wheels in a 74 engine with 80 inch parts - dont sweat it your taking 3 or 4 HP and almost no torque change as the wheels weigh the same - your not going to scare any one with 6 cubes and 8 to 1 compression
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 73
From: omaha NE
We dont know for sure how you know what you came to believe - as if it was local to me we both would know in 10 minuets exactly what you have
ok 74 wheels are the same diameter - once 1973 came along all engines are end oilers - shafts and rods all inter change 1974 to early 1981 - then its to 1985 in shovel then its evo rods going forwards lower unit swaps out easy
pistons and jugs - you did not post what you have but if its standard bore or .010 over 80 inch jugs - the .060 is std 80 inch bore and .070 is 80 inch .0i0 3-7/16 pistons
so 74 wheels with a 070 - 3.3/16 bore pistons bolts in with 74 wheels and 80 inch jugs and heads - cam is the same thing - it all works
normally we see it the other with 80 inch wheels in a 74 engine with 80 inch parts - dont sweat it your taking 3 or 4 HP and almost no torque change as the wheels weigh the same - your not going to scare any one with 6 cubes and 8 to 1 compression
ok 74 wheels are the same diameter - once 1973 came along all engines are end oilers - shafts and rods all inter change 1974 to early 1981 - then its to 1985 in shovel then its evo rods going forwards lower unit swaps out easy
pistons and jugs - you did not post what you have but if its standard bore or .010 over 80 inch jugs - the .060 is std 80 inch bore and .070 is 80 inch .0i0 3-7/16 pistons
so 74 wheels with a 070 - 3.3/16 bore pistons bolts in with 74 wheels and 80 inch jugs and heads - cam is the same thing - it all works
normally we see it the other with 80 inch wheels in a 74 engine with 80 inch parts - dont sweat it your taking 3 or 4 HP and almost no torque change as the wheels weigh the same - your not going to scare any one with 6 cubes and 8 to 1 compression
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: omaha NE
So I got the timing light on it after setting initial advance, and it's right on the advance marks at 1/4 throttle, probably 2500 rpm. I have it set on single spark race curve since I don't have a VOS setup.
Now however, I can't seem to get the accelerator pump setup. S&S Super E. I turned it all the way in, and crack the throttle from a dead idle like half way quick and it does nothing for a second, definately lags. I turned it out half turn at a time and doesn't really seem to make much difference, I turned it out till the spring didn't even have much if any pressure on it and still have a stumble when I crack the throttle. Maybe the pump itself is bad, I'll take the float bowl off tomorrow and check it. This is a used carb. This motor really probably needs a complete rebuild, it coughs and sneezes and smokes blue smoke when you back out of it from half throttle or so. Just thought I could get it running descent before I pulled it for a rebuild.
Now however, I can't seem to get the accelerator pump setup. S&S Super E. I turned it all the way in, and crack the throttle from a dead idle like half way quick and it does nothing for a second, definately lags. I turned it out half turn at a time and doesn't really seem to make much difference, I turned it out till the spring didn't even have much if any pressure on it and still have a stumble when I crack the throttle. Maybe the pump itself is bad, I'll take the float bowl off tomorrow and check it. This is a used carb. This motor really probably needs a complete rebuild, it coughs and sneezes and smokes blue smoke when you back out of it from half throttle or so. Just thought I could get it running descent before I pulled it for a rebuild.
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From: la la land jerzey
Take the carb and manifold off totally
re seal the intake good and support it with a center of the block to the bottom of the manifold - install no o rings and finesse till its not influenced by anything - very important
remove the carb bowl and the low speed just clean it real good out replace it with a new one 295 maybe
remove the acc pump at the bottom - care tinny spring and 2 ***** find a way to go to Ethiopia - check condition of acc pump umbrella replace if at all flat or damaged
take a reassemble with or with out new parts - fill the bowl with mineral spirts or what ever - acc pump rod into the pump hole and operate - should be a fan if not the edge of a razor blade in the discharge tube end rock it back and forth till you get a fan spray in the center of the carb bore put it back on and adjust 2 1/2 turns out see what happens now
re seal the intake good and support it with a center of the block to the bottom of the manifold - install no o rings and finesse till its not influenced by anything - very important
remove the carb bowl and the low speed just clean it real good out replace it with a new one 295 maybe
remove the acc pump at the bottom - care tinny spring and 2 ***** find a way to go to Ethiopia - check condition of acc pump umbrella replace if at all flat or damaged
take a reassemble with or with out new parts - fill the bowl with mineral spirts or what ever - acc pump rod into the pump hole and operate - should be a fan if not the edge of a razor blade in the discharge tube end rock it back and forth till you get a fan spray in the center of the carb bore put it back on and adjust 2 1/2 turns out see what happens now
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