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Does the clutch activating arm limit the movement of the mouse trap? When I depress hand clutch lever, the mouse trap flops backward (almost to the front spark plug). Then I have to forcefully move it back to upright position. Thanks. Chris
P.S. The 1967 FLH is a rebuild and I’m wondering if the mouse trap is broken or missing parts.
Last edited by buzzardbible; Oct 15, 2022 at 08:05 PM.
67 has a closed outer primary and you need to read the factory book on the finesse between the 2 springs the 10 clutch and that location is adjusted at just under 1 inch - and the main spring under the chrome cover on the mouse trap and the bottom nut assembly
first is the throw out bearing pre load - primary cover must come off — but you might have a bobber
center screw in the clutch hub turn in until you feel it Make contact - back it off till its loose in the threads maybe 1/4 turn or less
then the springs set the distance from the face of the tin disk that sits on the clutch disc to the back of the nut cover ( the lip edge ) 1 inch or as close as you can
then the long rod has to have a small amount of play at the back under the oil tank - the ball on its end need to have some light grease and the front of the rod pin ball the lolly pop needs light grease
then the mouse traps grease fitting needs grease - then the bottom nut on the spring back it off in a downward direction but not off —now the top screw is to set the balance location at just to the front ( to the left of dead center ) of dead center in a counter clockwise direction ( just a bit not much ) now push the trap to the rear if not already in that spot then start to pull the traps spring in with the bottom nut keep the spring hook from turning and away from hitting the lolly pop - if all of it was done as you pull down a load the traps spring at one point the trap will send the unit counter clockwise to the front of the unit - this is the balance between the two springs - very old and dead tension on the springs may be the real reason - but try this
lever cable must be lubed and not influencing the trap when adjusting - if you get to this spot the trap should operate to the rear and go right back to the rest spot at the top - if so adjust the cable lever out with just a little wiggle at the end for the lever is all you need
I don’t know how many times I’ve set up mouse trap adjustment. Really no problem doing it. But the clutch springs threw me for a loop. Don’t want to tighten too hard on them as it’s an old, original bike. I hate over tightened something! More so if it strips the screw!
i have never had a bike with a mouse trap so I have a dumb or obvious question,
is it's only function to give a lighter clutch pull on handlebar mounted clutch levers, or does it have other uses ?....
if it is just the lighter clutch pull, wouldn't these work better ???...... W&W Cycles - Performance Clutch - Clutch Performance Enhancer (wwag.com)
A correctly adjusted mouse trap works great. My 67 FLH was the last year for them. But most people just change to a simpler system. There are so many things you can do to make the dinosaurs up to date. I want to keep my dino original as a part of history.
I think the original design was partly based on the “foot” clutch and “suicide” gear shift they used before it.
it was a suicide clutch & jocky or hand shift as it happens,....... I use the diaphragm clutch conversion, only 3 bits & once fitted in 10 mins
your 4 speed shovel or earlier Harley big twins end up with a silky smooth one finger pull clutch, i guess the Mouse Trap does the same in a more complex way & only about $120 !!
Last edited by magnum45pete; Oct 16, 2022 at 11:56 AM.
A correctly adjusted mouse trap works great. My 67 FLH was the last year for them. But most people just change to a simpler system. There are so many things you can do to make the dinosaurs up to date. I want to keep my dino original as a part of history.
I think the original design was partly based on the “foot” clutch and “suicide” gear shift they used before it.
suicide referred to clutch, doing away w/rocker pedal, using shift type lever, direct via rod, to trans
worked like auto or truck clutch then
Mouse trap made it easier to hold the clutch while stopped in traffic. it was a big deal at the time as clutches where a bit strong.
Kind of why some get a chuckle now when the say a modern Hd clutch is to stiff.