NO as in NO it was in how you use what the both had the Harley and the Indian

Harley throttle on the right

indian On the left side - WW1 left throttle let you shoot and get away - no left holsters no one cared of you were left handed

this had the Harley distributor control on the left — Indian was on the right side of handle bar

shifter Harley was on the left with the front brake WW2 — Indian shifter is on the right - they invented the front brake first and had it on the right side bar

Foot clutch Harley operated push with the toe to go idea — Indian was heal to go

the rear brake was the only thing the same right leg both machines

most cant ride the other and not crash it nothing you need to go or stop is in the same place -

reason they called it suicide no other reason just so you know

 

FWIW... Legend says... Suicide, was given to early Choppers.. the ones with Hand Shifter, (tank or Jockey), and Foot Clutch...and No Front Brake.. Originated in Hills Of SanFrancisco.. (supposedly)
left foot on Clutch (if H-D), left hand shifting, right hand Throttle...(again assuming H-D) right foot??? On Brake... the Only Brake being the rear....OOOps... ran out of means to hold Upright... Suicide....
Anyways... Nothing at all to do with the Hand Shifter.. Tank (Gate) or Jockey, ... Foot Clutch.. As Stock... which is a really Neat set-up..
An Oft Mis-Used term... for Any hand shift, foot clutch, set-up..

 

google, how to adjust a mousetrap harley clutching and watch the video

 

The manual has the adjustment sequence in it with sketches and photos. You can download it as a PDF from the internet.... like right here. 'Pacific Mike 'has a Youtube video showing how to adjust the thing per the manual that's very clear.

But here are the principles underlying the thing's function, which once you know them demystify the thing:

- the freeplay adjustment with a mousetrap is actually at the aft end of the rod extending back from the mousetrap to the throwout bearing actuation lever, not as with many bikes at the clutch pressure plate itself. This freeplay measurement must be 1/8" or very close to it. Too little means you'll smoke your throwout bearing. Too much--like 1/4"--and the mechanism won't be pulled over TDC by the clutch pressure plate springs to its resting place... and you'll smoke your throwout bearing.

- the spring tension (adjustment nut on the bottom of the mousetrap) does not need to be very much. If you dial it up too much, the thing won't release properly. I actually put it where the manual says (like Mike shows), but then let even a touch more off... perfect.

- experiment with handlebar cable freeplay when you're done. You don't want a lot, as you can't then completely release the clutch, but you don't want the lever pulled against the stop, as the mousetrap needs a (very slightly) slack cable to smoothly go over TDC when you let go of the lever.

- if you cannot achieve 4-1/4" when first adjusting the center adjustment screw (measured from the ratchet housing's rear edge to the forward edge of the groove in the throwout bearing lever that accepts the mousetrap rod), don't worry. That square hole in the lever is sometimes stamped poorly (like mine was). If you can only get 4" back before it the screw seems to bottom out, no biggie. Just put it all the way back, then let off slightly, and proceed;

Be patient. I fiddled with mine for a while when I got my '51 running, but now it's wonderful. Lighter than a hydraulic clutch (or so the Harley riders who've checked it out. You'll know it's working right (returning over TDC) because it makes an audible 'clank!' Well, if you've got the chrome cover over the spring. That's what clanks.

Good luck!

 

Great video on adjusting the mouse trap / clutch booster here:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L8sLjkwnJ60

 

That's the same way I feel when people complain about lifter noise on Harleys

Jeff