83 Wide Glide Restoration
here are some photos of my DG as i got her & how she was after a refurbish & at the start of my on going restoration . . .
in the photos on the left my DG in original condition as i got her . . .
a lot of original parts were still on my Machine but she needed a lot TLC . . .
like yours mine was missing the Disc rear wheel . . . i think it is well worth returning these bike's back to original !
when you need any help just let me know what i can do for you ! lets save another one ! Ride On !
Last edited by troy montoya; Apr 19, 2023 at 07:13 AM.
here are some photos of my DG as i got her & how she was after a refurbish & at the start of my on going restoration . . .
in the photos on the left my DG in original condition as i got her . . .
a lot of original parts were still on my Machine but she needed a lot TLC . . .
like yours mine was missing the Disc rear wheel . . . i think it is well worth returning these bike's back to original !
when you need any help just let me know what i can do for you ! lets save another one ! Ride On !
here are some photos of my DG as i got her & how she was after a refurbish & at the start of my on going restoration . . .
in the photos on the left my DG in original condition as i got her . . .
a lot of original parts were still on my Machine but she needed a lot TLC . . .
like yours mine was missing the Disc rear wheel . . . i think it is well worth returning these bike's back to original !
when you need any help just let me know what i can do for you ! lets save another one ! Ride On !
Yours looks great! I would love to restore mine to this factory look, won't be something I'll be able to do this year probably. I'm wondering how you scored the factory tanks and fenders? Seems like something that would be hard to come by. Also, any reason for going away from the S&S other than it not being the factory carb? From my very basic and insufficient understanding, S&S is the cream of the crop when it comes to carbs?
Yours looks great! I would love to restore mine to this factory look, won't be something I'll be able to do this year probably. I'm wondering how you scored the factory tanks and fenders? Seems like something that would be hard to come by. Also, any reason for going away from the S&S other than it not being the factory carb? From my very basic and insufficient understanding, S&S is the cream of the crop when it comes to carbs?
my Tanks & Fenders are repaint , i have an original PPG Paint code, & the Tank Decals are also reproduction items, here is my personal email if you would like to make contact ! troymontoya61@gmx.de this is a great forum but i have gotten myself in trouble more than once offering "help" with parts i have for these Machines to restore them back to original !
Yes i did move away from the S&S Carb I think they are over rated & because i wanted to use the original Choke & Air Cleaner , i was able to score an original Carb with the mixture screw still sealed & it works perfect, just had to adjust the idle screw on the left side of the Carb to get the 950 RPM's that sounds so great ! i also converted my ignition to points because the ignition that was on my Machine was not original any way & was a cost issue to try & find a complete OEM ignition , & i wanted some thing more affordable & easy to work on ! your electronic ignition will work fine , i still have the OEM Ignition on my 85 FXSB Low Rider with no issues.
as far as Restoring your Machine if your so inclined you can do it like i am :
1.st , get her running & road worthy !
2.second , turn her into a daily rider for a season or 2
3.rd , while you are just enjoying her, start collecting parts for your restoration !
4.th , start to contact people who can help you with any issues that you will need help with when it comes time to refurbish / restore ! ie. paint / motor / trans rebuild ect !
You will probably be hanging on to your Machine & keeping it in the Family ,so just take your time & set your goals for short term & long term & enjoy the journey to bring her back to Original !! & like i said if you need any help advice there are a lot of people in this forum that are willing to share their knowledge & offer any assistance, me included !
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
- I got the bike washed today. I did some digging under the bike and found that the oil return line is the one that frayed and leaked all over the bike, between the oil cooler outlet and the oil filter. I believe my first order of business will be getting all those lines replaced with crimp clamps over the screw clamps that are on it (personal preference). I know all the lines may not be bad, but I would prefer to replace them all now and have one less thing to worry about. If anyone could tell me what size oil line to buy, I measured and the ID seems to be 3/8" and 3/4" OD, but I'm only seeing 3/8" ID X 5/8" OD line on J&P Cycles and it seems pretty expensive, $45 for 5 ft of roll. Also, anyone recognize what kind of oil pump I've got? Doesn't look factory.
- As you might imagine, the bottom of the bike is covered in nasty oil, and I mean it's really coated on there thick in some places. Under the crank case, the frame on the bottom and even the battery mount was coated. I would like to get all of this grease removed. A cousin of mine recommended Simple Green degreaser. I was wondering if any of you all have experience here and how this product/products like this should be applied (I.e spray it on and leave it for X amount of time before spraying off)? While washing today I concluded that dawn soap and water isn't going to be enough, so any products you all could recommend that will make that stuff really come off of there.
- Throttle cable: Looks like the previous owner went away from the dual cable system, but I was going to order some new handlebar grips that come with a dual throttle cable.. Any recommendations on cheaper grips that are still quality and most importantly will I be able to get the dual throttle cable to work? I was looking at Arlen Ness Knurled grips w/ dual throttle cable, about $60.
- Bent wheel in the front; salvageable or need a new wheel?
- I can't seem to get my push rods covers back into place, we took them off yesterday when diagnosing the bike. I tried putting a screw driver through the hole in the collar and pulling it up the rest of the way, but the spring was max compressed and there was still 1/2"-3/4" to travel before seating, and the screwdriver ripped the loop open wider so i just left them off. Any advice here would be great, I'm aware that the intake and exhaust rods are different lengths.
- Same cousin who recommended Simple Green told me anytime I wanted to bring the engine and any other parts to him, he would cerakote them for me. He has his own set up for blasting/coating, so I was thinking I'd take the engine to him and have it done up in the original shovelhead style, and maybe flat black for exhaust pipes. He said he could do any parts I brought to him, clutch/brake levers, wheels, primary cover, etc. Any thoughts/recommendations/ideas that y'all think would look good on my bike, drop them here. When I saw the bike for the first time, my initial thought was that a matte hunter green on tanks/fenders with gloss black HD badges on the tanks would look really slick. Really teetering between this and restoring it to its factory FXDG color. Not sure if tanks/fenders would hold up to blasting and heat treatment, but if they would I could pick any color I want for him to do. The frame has some rust spots on it but I don't know if I'd want to strip the bike completely naked to get this accomplished. If you all think it would be worth it, or if you think any of the parts listed would be ill-advised to cerakoting, be all means let me know.
frayed oil line
between rear fender/battery mount (removed)
oil lines
oil pump
oil pump 2
bent wheel
bottom of crank case
single throttle cable











