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Since the 80s i have not found even one that was pre set correctly - they are all tight and if you did not change the inner spacer ring and or did not align it at 12 oclock that is also an issue that causes that
safe bet is at least .008 to .012
Outer and inner spacer changed each time and gap clock'ed to 12 each time.
I had assume a oiling issue but sounds like more of a preload problem.
Cases coming apart tomorrow so I will see if they have oil on them.
Even if they currently have oil it may have been after the damage was done.
I have been very lucky not to have spun a race and damaged a case yet.
The bearing in the engine is overwhelmed tight - in my shop we teach what i learned before we had the tool
evo is easier then the early cases - once you have the bearing installed in the left case and bottomed do not remove the case from the vice or the tool use to press it to the bottom — and before you install the seal and spacer - take a stud end the thread top part - and see if it wiggles up and down < that is the end play movement - we automatically add .005 to a new inner bearing spacer split ring out of the package but i have 200 of those rings new and take out used as they dont wear - some times it needs even more before it the end play is felt
i have done so many i can just feel what its going to be - the disassembly tool in hand if its still tight and you cant or its ever so slight in movement - add more to the spacer between the two bearings another .003 maybe as i am not doing it so —thicker gives you more end play thinner makes it tighter
its a once for you in the lower unit so just make sure this is right —0 and then the cam end play and the breather valve end play can also make you crazy trick to both - just start a new thread as its a different part of the engine an will not get lost your questions if needed
As a follow up,
I have replaced the bearing assembly and this time ordered Eastern instead of VTwin.
I get .012" end play out of the package. I measured the outer race spacer and found it is thinner on the Eastern set.
The eastern set are also Timken brand.
I think you'll be good this time 👍 and kudos for diving into one that deep.
That .012 your getting now will (should) shrink drastically when everything is torqued up. Stacked in a press, exactly as pictured minus the tie wraps, you'll get a better feel. I never let one go with more than .0015 -.002 end play and never had one fail or need to be replaced again. Exception of the first one I ever did, mentioned post #10.
I never used anything but a genuine Timken fitted bearing from a sealed package. And Eastern MC Parts was always my "go-to" for hard parts when OEM weren't available.
I clamped the bearings together as you have pictured first.
Needed a feeler gauge on both sides as the outer races would rock to one side if only checking the one side.
I clamped the bearings together as you have pictured first.
Needed a feeler gauge on both sides as the outer races would rock to one side if only checking the one side.
Yep
And if you can't get gauges between there, if you can simply turn the race without any drag, you're good.
As a follow up,
I have replaced the bearing assembly and this time ordered Eastern instead of VTwin.
I get .012" end play out of the package. I measured the outer race spacer and found it is thinner on the Eastern set.
The eastern set are also Timken brand.
Hopefully third time is a charm.
Thinner outer race spacer make the bearings tighter. You want a thinner inner bearing spacer. BTW. I typically find the outer spacers are the same width.. I use a special micrometer that allows me to measure the outer race while in the case.. If it's the same and tight in the case I leave it alone. Later HD motors don't have a cast in sleeve. The bearing rests on aluminum.. It's easy to mark up the bearing bore.
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