Stators
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: Bay Area/Valley, California
Stators
Difference between molded an unmolded stators? By the look, assuming its bare v covered wiring? Pros & cons for both?
Are there things to consider if I order a new charging system and it's 32 amp?
Are there things to consider if I order a new charging system and it's 32 amp?
Last edited by HellaGNARLY; Mar 14, 2024 at 12:48 PM.
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Just trying to keep this going, Not sure I have seen a molded stator to compare but... a stator is just a magnet wire winding with the magnet wire being coated to avoid shorts. The important part of the stator is the windings so assume a molded stator is more protected than an exposed magnet wire stator. As for amps higher is better as my shovel I think only has 25A but back then accessories were not common. I believe the voltage regulator needs to be matched to the stator.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: Bay Area/Valley, California
Just trying to keep this going, Not sure I have seen a molded stator to compare but... a stator is just a magnet wire winding with the magnet wire being coated to avoid shorts. The important part of the stator is the windings so assume a molded stator is more protected than an exposed magnet wire stator. As for amps higher is better as my shovel I think only has 25A but back then accessories were not common. I believe the voltage regulator needs to be matched to the stator.
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Look at Cycle Electrics. I have used them on my 1989 and 2002 ElectraGlides. Comparing the HD stock to the Cycle Electric one, while both are in your hands, will reveal huge differences.
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Tourer
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Indiana, USA
My Sturgis still has original stator, replaced regulator a few years ago. Gunmetal '03 has the aftermarket stator. No charging issues yet with '13 Limited
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Tourer
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Can I bench test the regulator and stator to see if I have an issue or will I only know from the battery?
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Indiana, USA
I do not know how to bench test regulator so usually test together. Regulator simply is 3 diodes that rectify Alternating current from Stator to Direct Current. AC to DC
I check regulator by check battery voltage engine off then start and check voltage again. You should see an increase at maybe 13.8 volts when running at the battery, only 12v when not running.
The stator is a winding, magnet wire that has the coating to stop shorts. You can disconnect the regulator at the case left front and with a multi meter check resistance between the pins. Its a winding, should have continuity unless it has a broken wire. Also should not have continuity from either pin to the case ground.
So if stator winding is not open the winding is in tact unless it is shorted to the case and grounded. Continuity between 2 stator pins but no continuity from either pin to ground. Hope this makes sense.
I check regulator by check battery voltage engine off then start and check voltage again. You should see an increase at maybe 13.8 volts when running at the battery, only 12v when not running.
The stator is a winding, magnet wire that has the coating to stop shorts. You can disconnect the regulator at the case left front and with a multi meter check resistance between the pins. Its a winding, should have continuity unless it has a broken wire. Also should not have continuity from either pin to the case ground.
So if stator winding is not open the winding is in tact unless it is shorted to the case and grounded. Continuity between 2 stator pins but no continuity from either pin to ground. Hope this makes sense.
