What Goose NC said. Cycle Electric is the best, and in my opinion, the only way to go. American made and quality built. Used their combos on three different bikes (2 Shovels and 1 EVO). Also used their voltage regulator (mounts on the end of the generator) on a custom Pan build. Never had a problem with any of them.

 

After reading this post I remembered that I bought a new OEM stator for my 2003 EG. Sold bike and still have it. I’ll post it in the proper section.

 

How to check your charging system...

03-12-2008, 06:38 PM
How to check your charging system...originally posted by Hawg Ryder


First, the alternators of 1970 and newer Shovels:

Checking HD Alternator

First thing I'd do is to find a good digital multi-meter, put it on dc volts and test the bat. Should show 12+ volts (13 is perfect), if not check water in the battery, and charge until it does. If this doesn't act right, remove the bat and have it load tested. Once you are absolutely sure that you have a known good battery in there, start the engine and again using dc volts check the output by taking a volt reading direct off the battery terminals while the motor is running in the 2000 rpm range…voltage should be 13.8 to 14+ volts and if it is you are in fat city. When you aren't showing a forward charge and you've cleaned all the terminals and grounds, pull the stator plug out of the front of the case on the primary side (turn the bike off first, don’t check this with the motor running!). Visually inspect that the plug is making good connections, no corroded or burnt pins on the regulator plug or the stator plug. Put your meter on ohms and check from one of the pins on the stator (engine side of the plug) to a good ground….should be no continuity on either pin to ground. Check pin to pin and you can get a reading of .2 to .4 ohms. If you have continuity from pin to ground your stator is grounded and needs to be replaced. If you have "infinity" from pin to pin your stator is opened and needs to be replaced.

If the stator resistance checks are OK, start the motor with the regulator still unplugged. Set the meter to AC volts...read across the stator pins (BE CAREFUL, the motor will be moving around/vibrating a bit...don't short anything!!)...you should read between 19 to 26 volts AC per 1000 rpm of motor speed. Note the readings then TURN OFF THE MOTOR. If your AC voltage output is lower than spec'd, there is a partial short in a winding(s) and again, the stator will need replacing.

Turn your meter to DC volts and check the voltage regulator side of the plug from pin to ground. These pins to ground should be very low voltage if any at all. If you get battery voltage at either pin, replace the voltage regulator.

Now on to the earlier generator type:

D.C. Generators - To determine charging system operation -

1. Battery must be good. (charged)
2. Hook voltmeter to battery (D.C. 20v scale or higher)
3. Start m.c. Operate at 2,000 rpm. With lights on
4. Voltmeter should read 12.8-15 volts D.C. If meter reads less there is a problem...

5. Check all wire connections first (retest if problem found)

6. Remove wires from "A" and "F" terminals of D.C. generator
7. Attach a voltmeter (D.C. 50 volt or higher scale) to the gen. With the red or pos. lead to the "A" terminal and the neg. or black lead to ground.
8. Start the m.c. Operate at 2,000 rpm
9. Connect a jumper wire from the "F" terminal to ground (not for a long time 3- 5 seconds MAX!)
10. Voltmeter should read 20v – 30v D.C. or higher if rpm is up
11. If correct reading was obtained replace or clean voltage regulator. And retest...

12. If the voltmeter needle was pegged backwards (and your leads were attached correctly) the generator is polarized backwards.
13. Polarize the D.C. gen. Correctly this time.

14. To polarize use a 12v battery.
15. Make sure all wires are off the "A" and "F" terminals
16. Hook a jumper wire from bat. Pos. to the "A" terminal
17. MOMENTARILY hook a jumper wire from bat. Neg. to the "F" terminal (all you need to do is make a flash)
18. After polarizing retest generator.
19. If the D.C. gen. Shows little or no charging output the gen. Parts must be checked....

20. With the wires off of the gen. "A" and "F" terminals hook ohm meter to the "A" and "F" terminals reading should be 1-6 ohms if good (if not replace the field coils)
21. Remove armature and using an ohm meter (x1ohm scale) check for shorted fields by attaching ohmmeter red lead to term. "A" or "F" and black lead to ground reading should be infinite if not replace fields.
22. Check armature using an ohm meter (x1 ohm scale)
A. Comutator segment to segment – continuity- or replace
B. Com. To ground – infinite – or replace
C. Growler check – if magnetized (shorted) – replace
D. If comutator out of round is more than .003 or is burned it should be turned on a lathe and segments undercut
23. Check brush length if under .5" or is worn more than 1/3 – ½ of new length replace

 

make sure the contact plug is not burnt

 

[QUOTE=houserjw;21607722]

How to check your charging system...

03-12-2008, 06:38 PM
How to check your charging system...originally posted by Hawg Ryder
30 years as a marine electrician and this is the best step by step guide for testing a vehicle electric generation system I've ever seen outside of a tech manual, (MC or automobile.)
The only thing that I'd add is to properly use Dielectric Grease on all of your electrical connections. Remember, it's not axel grease or Vaseline and you're not packing a wheel bearing.

 

Unless you go the Cycle Electric $$$ kit I am not a fan of the rotors the import kits come with. You have to play shim games to set them up and the thin splines have a habit of stripping out easy. I don't like the non encapsulated magnets, they do come loose. I have used the later 32 amp stator & regs and the old original brass ringed rotors with the thicker spline boss with no issues, been running that setup on mine since the 90's. Lost one regulator, Accell fancy one, been the only issue.

Far as the open or coated coils on the stators, no real opinion. Think most you can get today are all open winding. You need a kit quick I have a decent import set.

 

Well - I got the charging system from Dennis Kirk (V Factor).

Looks to be good quality but the problem is the rubber boot is too wide by about 1/8" on both sides for the OEM retainer piece. The retainer is upside down in the pic but regardless, the space in the middle for the OEM boot is the same size at both ends. I'm working with Dennis Kirk to return but I need to find a direct OEM replacement (part # 29965-81A).

This V Factor stator and regulator are 32 amp. I see Cycle Electric offers items @ 50 amps. Is there anything I should be wary of when going from OEM amperage to something that high? Or as long as my regulator is designed for the same amps, I'm good? Thanks.

*Edit. Returning this. Going with Cycle Electric from J&P Cycles. It pays to just go off parts numbers and not these dumb website fitment guides.

 

Don't think you've got the plug pushed far enough up through the case yet, end should stick out a 1/2" + so the reg plug seat down on it. Think I had to seat the stator in the before doing the little clip, clip should sit under the end of the plug is memory serves with those. I also suggest rigging up a plug cap to hold the plug on solidly. Some variation of this. You on chopcult ? I'm signed up but can't post, reply or do squat yet.

 

You're correct - the boot wasn't all the way in but the space it still had to go wasn't enough for it to clear the retainer. I pushed it all the way through after this pic and the boot is still too wide. For what it's worth, the previous charging system installed (I'm assuming is OEM by the looks) had the boot recessed from the case opening by about 1/8", and not sticking out for the regulator plug.

I'm on Chopcult - same username. I usually post on both for issues I have to see which one I get an answer faster.

 

Carefully trim the bottom of the plug a bit till the clip clears, no thing. I use a bit Permatex Ultra gray on the plug going in also.