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I'm not sure what carb I have. I do believe the PO said he has the original and something newer, which I think is what I got with the machine. I'll take a look tonight. My air cleaner is tear drop shaped - not like yours.
I have the exact same mufflers you do. I actually was wondering how they were supposed to be mounted. Yours is a nice example. The tab with drill hole you refer to welded to the support back near the lower shock mount? I have no idea about that. I don't have the experience to tell if it is stock or not. Once I get to that point with the exhaust, I'll need to figure it out. The parts manual does not show that tab. Maybe something added for bag brackets or rear crash bar? Some sort of accessory mount?
I'm not sure what carb I have. I do believe the PO said he has the original and something newer, which I think is what I got with the machine. I'll take a look tonight. My air cleaner is tear drop shaped - not like yours.
Pretty sure that is a Bendix. Original would have been a Tillotson which was not a well regarded carb.
<<he tab with drill hole you refer to welded to the support back near the lower shock mount?>> yes that's it - not to be found on a handful of OEM mounts I've seen. I also have absolutely no idea about what those might be for. Do the tabs appear welded-on later (and then the mount refinished), or a real factory job? Maybe things will make more sense once you get to mounting the mufflers and see what kind of brackets etc. you have.
My carb is S&S.
Those tabs do look like they could have been welded on but whoever did it did a good job. I'll take a look at the brackets I have for bags or maybe rear bumper and see if I can make sense of them.
Nice project you have there. Looks like your wiring is a combination of some original plus some not so original
Just a suggestion on the wiring. Take the pic from the factory service manual to your local office supply store that has a copy machine. Have them blow it up for you to something like 24"x36". Use colored pencils to match the color of the wires in your service manual. Put it on the wall so that you can reference it while re-wiring the bike. Do the starting/charging system first and test it to make sure you have it right. Then add all the accessory stuff like lights, signals, and switches. Do not forget the ground wires.
Re: I run straight 60 in all my old bike. Few times in the winters over the years, during some really cold ones, I switched to 50, just to make my 49 easier to start.
I would suggest you stay away from J&P Cycles. They overcharge and the quality is $hit. Tedds (V-Twin) can be hit and miss. I have a few FB pages that deal with old iron (Shovels and Pans specifically). Do my best to find parts I may need through them. Also have a couple of saved sellers on the Flea that have worked out for me
Last edited by panz4ever; Sep 27, 2024 at 08:56 AM.
More musings about my choices of tyres & rubber elements for the 1968 E-Glide... in the 1980-1990's mine had whitewalls just like yours, and more "white stuff" (handlebar grips, footpads, shifter peg, brake pedal, and even a fat unsightly white buddy seat).
When starting restoration 2 years ago, I thought this to be "too much" and went back to all black rubber. Especially I wanted to get rid of the whitewalls as their "white" was both too similar and too different from the white paint - can you relate?
So I went for the Avons, though the Coker "Firestone Deluxe Champion" came in a close second (but cost twice as much as the Avons here).
Agree on the Avon blackwalls. Had whitewalls on my bikes as most came like that. As they wore out I replaced them with the Avons. No more cleaning the whitewalls and they look good IMHO.
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