Closing shovel crankcase vent.
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5th Gear
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Closing shovel crankcase vent.
I could swear I read a comment the other day on one of the boards about re-routing the external vent line(rear chain oiler) to the primary case oil return fitting next to the pump. The poster was saying he had used this set up for 12k miles with no problems, much reduced oil consumption, and no drips in his garage. I'm really curious about this setup if anyone has any info. Thanks in advance, PH.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Idisconnected all my flow hoses to my inner primary and capped the oil pump and the inner primary over 50,000 miles ago. With no problems at all. Depending on your sled, pull the outer and inner primary and go to your local Sears hardware or automotive shop and buy plugs for the primary, you will need at least two different sizes I believe, plus a plug for the oil pump. The plugs I am talking about are like the freeze plugs on a car engine but much smaller. When you find a fit I had mine heliarced in place but I did it to a buddies sled and he just used good old JB Weld on top of the plugs and it has held for over 10 years and MUCH cheaper. Just don't forget to get new gaskets and seal the new setup well and don't forget the primary fluid, just put enough in to go about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the BOTTOM of your clutch. It makes for a much cleaner oil line setup, with out having to worry about the damn splitter fitting and making sure your clamps are tight. If you go this way make sure you get some good chain lube - not oil but lube in a spray can...
Have fun - it works and no chain oil adjustment to worry about, screw the screw all the way in and ride...
ShovelheadGreg
Have fun - it works and no chain oil adjustment to worry about, screw the screw all the way in and ride...
ShovelheadGreg
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Joined: Sep 2007
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RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
You will still have to have the crankcase vent hose. mine is locatedleftof and low next tothe oil pump on the case and vents to "atmosphere" as the Harley book says - you still have to have that attached. At least that is how mine is plumbed for oil with no chain oiler or primary return lines...
SHG
SHG
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5th Gear
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RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Thanks Greg, I have the same setup as you. I am now looking to follow up on what looks like additional re-routing to completely close the crankcase. It sounded trick IF it can be done.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Hmm, seems there are a couple "vent" linesin the oil pump/crankcase area. There's the vent from the crankcase, located just above the pump, that goes back to the oil tank (this one originally had the "tee" fitting to also vent the primary). There's the vent to atmosphere, located just to the left (inboard) of the oil pressure switch fitting. The rear chain oiler line isn't a vent. You can simply block it off, or turn the screw adjuster in all the way, to stop any oil from going out that way.
You have to vent the crankcase somehow or another. If you vent it to the primary, and the primary is properly sealed, you will alternately pressurize and create a vacuum in the primary. I guess that might work, but just doesn't seem right to me. I'd reckon when the primary pressurizes eventually any prone-to-leak area will.
Also, if your engine starts wet-sumping, you won't know about it unless you check the oil tank before every start. The oil that drains into the cases will get blown into the primary where it'll sit, and possible hydraulically lock the clutch up when enough accumulates.
I think it'd be better to completely seal the primary (as you have, IIRC), close off the rear chain oiler, then vent the crankcase directly to the atmosphere below the engine/tranny. If you don't want it to drip, attach a store-bought or home-built catch can at the end of the vent line. I made one from a stainless can with the top cut off, and a sight glass (clear plastic line), and a drain fitting on the bottom. When enough accumulated I'd drain it.. It was easy to see if the engine wet-sumped, too.
You have to vent the crankcase somehow or another. If you vent it to the primary, and the primary is properly sealed, you will alternately pressurize and create a vacuum in the primary. I guess that might work, but just doesn't seem right to me. I'd reckon when the primary pressurizes eventually any prone-to-leak area will.
Also, if your engine starts wet-sumping, you won't know about it unless you check the oil tank before every start. The oil that drains into the cases will get blown into the primary where it'll sit, and possible hydraulically lock the clutch up when enough accumulates.
I think it'd be better to completely seal the primary (as you have, IIRC), close off the rear chain oiler, then vent the crankcase directly to the atmosphere below the engine/tranny. If you don't want it to drip, attach a store-bought or home-built catch can at the end of the vent line. I made one from a stainless can with the top cut off, and a sight glass (clear plastic line), and a drain fitting on the bottom. When enough accumulated I'd drain it.. It was easy to see if the engine wet-sumped, too.
Stage III
Joined: Nov 2007
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RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Bad idea if you close that hose you could build up presure in the crank case and blow the gaskets and oil will leak every place then.
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RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Potatohead, check out this article and see if it's what you are thinking about:
http://www.shovelhead.us/specs/oil/oil.htm
http://www.shovelhead.us/specs/oil/oil.htm
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From: Forest Lake, Mn
RE: Closing shovel crankcase vent.
Way to Go, Hippy. Exactly where I was going to send him. Excellent article. As to the crank case vent. On all my pans and shovels, I installed a breather on a 3/8" line. The breather I finally stumbled across a couple of years ago, I buy thru J&P Cycles. It is the breather with the small rubber flap in it. Works just like a reed valve on a 2 stroke engine. Keeps the engine from sucking air into the crankcase on the compression and exhaust strokes, and thus reduces the pressure build up when the pistons come back down. This has cured blow by problems and oil all over the back of the bike,and takes some of the pressure off gaskets and seals.Not to mention it actually helps on the performance end of the equation. There are nicer, much more expensive units out there, but this is by far the best bang for the buck I have found.
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