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Hey Everyone, Thanks for all the help over the last couple of months. I haven't been around because I've been busy putting my bike back together. It's all set and running but I have a couple of small issues. I noticed when I took it apart that the ignition pickup was all the way advanced. Today when I tried to set the timing I wasn't able to get lined up with the advance mark on the flywheel even with the plate rotated all the way advanced and running at 2500rpm. My bike has a Screamin Eagle ignition module #32412-85B, which after looking up the instructions I found is for an EVO bike. It has a purple wire that's supposed to go to a vacuum switch that the shovel doesn't have. So I'm assuming I'm not getting full advance for that reason. It also has an 8,000 rpm rev limiter which is probably about 2500 rpm passed where mine would have fragmented, so I'm planning on replacing it. What do you guys recommend I put in it's place? Motor is near stock compression with a mild cam and S&S carb. I'm thinking maybe one of those Dyna modules, but what would you fellas recommend? I see there's a cheap Chi-na version of it also... Or something else?
I'm now thinking that maybe the rotor on the end of the cam could be the reason it's not getting full advance. It seems like they changed it from the early electronic ignition shovels to the Evo. Anyone know what the difference was between them?
The silver rotor was the old one that will not time correctly with any ignition besides the early factory module. Gold color rotor is the current version that works with any modern module.
If all that checks out, ground the purple wire. That will give it timing advance similar to points with most of the advantages of electronic ignition.
Yep, I checked, it has the old silver rotor. So that module is fine if I change the rotor out? Other than the lack of a rev limiter that is. It seems maybe the purple wire grounding just makes the timing curve ramp up faster and I should just leave it disconnected. I think I'd like to leave the module for the next round of upgrades if I can get away with it.
You'll need a new rotor regardless and assuming the module (and coil) are good, that's all you need. Leaving the purple wire disconnected will keep the timing horribly low and it will be very sluggish to ride.
My purple wire is definitely not grounded. Is that the reason it's impossible to get the proper advance even with the plate rotated all the way? I also have the shovelhead rotor. The bike ran and rode really well actually, considering all the terrible things I found wrong with it. It did break up on aggressive acceleration when it was warmed up but I was figuring that it was a carb problem at the time. Though I found plenty of those too. I'm really looking forward to finally riding this thing. It's getting a lot of love. I bet it's going to be like a different machine once it's dialed in.
The silver rotor was the old one that will not time correctly with any ignition besides the early factory module. Gold color rotor is the current version that works with any modern module.
If all that checks out, ground the purple wire. That will give it timing advance similar to points with most of the advantages of electronic ignition.
This, needs the gold cup for the aftermarket all electronic units.
I just got my new rotor and it is slightly different than the earlier one. The windows are larger and don't line up to the older rotor exactly. I already grounded the wire so I'll bolt it in tomorrow and see how the timing looks. I'll try and get an idea of what that wire does exactly and if it limits the total advance.
Ok, with the new rotor and wire grounded I was able to get full advance. However, grounding the wire seems to be the only thing that changes the timing. There's no curve to speak of. If I ground the wire and rev it, then set the timing to full advance it stays at full advance even when it returns to idle. I would assume it should have some gradual advance from a base setting that the module determines to the full advance, no? I don't remember what it was doing before with the wire ungrounded, I was too busy trying to get the full advance, but I don't think it changed then either. It seems like grounding the wire is the only thing that makes a change and it advances about 10-15 degrees when it is.
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