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  #21  
Old 04-18-2009, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by d_slat
If I understand what you are trying to say, I think you might be thinking backwards. Straight 50 or 60 weight oil is a lot thinner when it warms up than when it is cold. when it is cold, it's like syrup. 20w-50 does not thicken as much when it cools down, therefore providing a much more consistant viscosity. 20w-50 is BETTER than straight weight oils before the engine is up to operating temps, not worse. That's why they especially recommend using it in cooler climates.

“d_slat”

“If I understand what you are trying to say, I think you might be thinking backwards. Straight 50 or 60 weight oil is a lot thinner when it warms up than when it is cold. when it is cold, it's like syrup.”

That is what I said except I called 50wt or higher, molasses ! I don’t think that is “thinking backwards” ?

“20w-50 does not thicken as much when it cools down, therefore providing a much more consistant viscosity. 20w-50 is BETTER than straight weight oils before the engine is up to operating temps, not worse.”

I said 20-50 is “worse” in any condition cold starting or warmed up ? maybe you can copy that ?

“That's why they especially recommend using it in cooler climates.”

20-50 of course

ride safe

cj
 
  #22  
Old 04-18-2009, 02:56 PM
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Sorry if I was wrong about what you are trying to say CJ, but it is hard trying to follow your posts. Just trying to keep the mud clear.
 
  #23  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:19 PM
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CJ's right, multi viscosity motor oils where developed for cold climates and the problems it brings on with even getting a motor to start.
 
  #24  
Old 04-19-2009, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by d_slat
Sorry if I was wrong about what you are trying to say CJ, but it is hard trying to follow your posts. Just trying to keep the mud clear.

"d slat"
“Sorry if I was wrong about what you are trying to say CJ, but it is hard trying to follow your posts.

Yeah sometime I type and read way too fast, I maybe in a hurry etc.. will miss spell words use bad grammar stuff like that, but I never got any re[lies on what my intent was, not saying I never needed that : - ) but never got that yet until your statements, and please fell free to give me an example of what I said.


“Just trying to keep the mud clear.”


d slat, ok I understand your thinking but what would go a long way would be, well let me give you a straight up answer, your telling me your “Just trying to keep the mud clear.”

To me (not that you meant it this way : ) It’s like calling someone a AH or a JO without telling him, why ? you see that doesn’t solve anything ? no one learns anything ? example, of my posts or replies being clear as mud ? are you getting what I am talking about here ?

Next time do what I do when I don’t understand someone or maybe I took someone out of context, this has work for me, well since late in ’94 when it was text only on the net, just coming in then was the GUI (graphics user interface) the pictures and stuff, I’ll give you a example what work for years.

Go to the reply or post of the mudder in this example, copy the part of the mud, paste the mud part, into a reply to the mud slinger then just under, ask in a nice way, “what did you mean by this, its sounds like its at odds with what your trying to state“ ?

That’s it, the mud slinger will come back and answer you, he either clears it up his spelling, grammar or maybe he just had a bad day, or he might not have the ***** to come back, either way you will have an answer !

Another gripe, no I shouldn’t say that, another question, I often got/get was “why do you use the style" of answering every sentence or paragraph, you (cj) put what I say in quotes then answer every line (if it’s to the subject) and use different colors ? this is confusing ? Why don’t you just use the whole quote option ?

My answer is always the same, I answer everything someone replies to me, this is now it was done back then, no confusion, no misunderstandings, you see nothing is left out, no statement is left unanswered, the colors sometimes I use (I’ll use it here) is to leave no-doubt what so ever, who said what ! actually why was that style used ? because of “bandwidth” back then it was a premium, another left-over for then was at the end of a question to someone “Thanks in advance” was the sign off, thereby the questioner didn’t have to use bandwidth to come back to the answered question and say “Thanks” it was all about the bandwidth, today we watch full streaming movies on the net, but see where I am at here ?

cj
 
  #25  
Old 04-19-2009, 03:34 PM
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I'm running Amsoil but you have to check your oil pressure, at low R's 20w50 wether its Dino or Syn is very thing when hot for the Shovel pumps and may starve parts. Shovel pumps are great for syrup but not water.
 
  #26  
Old 04-20-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 78fxs78
I'm running Amsoil but you have to check your oil pressure, at low R's 20w50 wether its Dino or Syn is very thing when hot for the Shovel pumps and may starve parts. Shovel pumps are great for syrup but not water.

“78fxs78”
“I'm running Amsoil but you have to check your oil pressure, at low R's 20w50 wether its Dino or Syn is very thing when hot for the Shovel pumps and may starve parts. Shovel pumps are great for syrup but not water.”

For anyone running 50 straight and up that is most likely true, but I have to add when did 20-50 come out ? maybe 78 or 79 ? I know it was out in ’89-‘81, I can’t believe that hd would not re-design any internal parts to allow for the thinner oil at heat up, that is base only on thinking and common sense and hoping that its true : - ))) but I seem to remember that hd in the closing years (I think last year for the shovel ’84) improved the oil paths in the rockers ? anyway that is what I was told by a dealer overhauling the top end for me, he said they modified mine, now whether this guy was blowing smoke or not ?

Any big bore made before the 20-50 should have gone the other way, making allowances for the heavier oil at start up, if one could but again that is based on nothing but the way it should have been : - ))

I had a hd oil pump it was very good made well but if I was running the heavy grade stuff I would be concerned about all the internal parts and oil travels getting that molasses into connecting parts at cold start-ups and up to running temp, it’s the wear thing with me, I think about it during cold mornings with 20-50, I don’t get crazy about it, what wears, wears but and the but is, am I using something that is wearing out my engine faster than what considered normal wear ? no I am running 20-50.

I am trusting what hd and s&s state that should be run in ’80 up engines, on average, please leave me an out for those who ride in TX,AZ NM in august ! : - ))))

Ride safe,

cj
 
  #27  
Old 04-20-2009, 08:23 PM
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You don't need to leave TX out. I've always run a multi-grade oil in my shovel. The pump and oil passages will handle it, without a oil cooler. And on a fresh motor, synthetics are great for a motor. I'd like to hear more from the Amsoil guy who jumped in for a moment. Maybe he could clear up some misconseptions.
 
  #28  
Old 04-20-2009, 08:46 PM
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straight 50 and 20/50 are the same viscosity at operating temps, so once up to temp, all things are equal. What the multi grade did was offer a little more protection at cold start ups buy reducing the chances of starving the engine. It's gives the best of both worlds. The only disadvantage to a "less than par" made mutigrade would be the possibility of the viscosity improvers shearing and the oil thinning out over time. All multi grades start as the lower weight, so s 20/50 is a 20 weight to begin with and viscosity improvers are added to create the desired operating weight. Synthetics offer an advantage here as they inherantly need less of this additives which makes them less likely to succumb to shearing. In some of the comparative studies you've seen, some oils do shear out of range under stressful conditions.
Hope that makes sense and help some.
Heath
 
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