How hot is too hot
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 2
From: Palm Bay Florida
Thanks for all the info I am goingto retourque the head bolts this weekend can someone tell me the spec I ordered a repair manual butit wont be in until next week and I would liketo take the bike out on Sunday for the Toy Run.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Hiding in your closet
My books aren't here but I can go over to my shop space and look it up for you and post it later. Do you have a torque wrench and torque adapter? I f'd it up the first time I did it on my Shovel. One or two of those bolts on the back head are hard to reach without the right tools. Pipe gets in the way. Push rods get in the way. Air filter gets in the way. Also if the head gasket has failed past a point retorquing won't solve the leak and you'll have to replace the gasket(s).
Anyway, get to love your Shovel! I love mine too (sometimes more than others!)....
Anyway, get to love your Shovel! I love mine too (sometimes more than others!)....
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
Head bolts are torqued at 65 ft lbs. Run a couple of heat cycles and retorque. If you plan to keep the shovel and work on it yourself. Buy a few specialized tools. One is the factory style headbolt wrench. It is a long bar with a 90 degree bend at each end for a 3/8 socket. It will allow you to get to the hard to reach bolts. A curved manifold wrench is also handy for reaching the hard to get headbolts. You will need to pick up a clutch hub puller and a large socket for the motor sprocket. You will need this to take the inner primary off if you plan to seal the primary (I wouldn't). Other tools you can usually make do but these are a necessity.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 2
From: Palm Bay Florida
I fix cars for a living so I do have a better than average collection of tools the only thing I will need is a wrench to get to the headbolts and I found a way to make one on another thread. Thanks again for the info Dennis
Last edited by dedjr67; Dec 1, 2009 at 07:58 PM. Reason: spelling
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Kenilworh, UT
Put an oil cooler on and throw the temp. gauge away. The smoke is most likely the valve guides. You are about ready for a top end rebuild but there is no reason to worry that shovel is tough and it will run a long time like that. Use Rowe cast iron valve guides and Manley stainless steal valves and it will last forever, it probably has bronze guides now. As far as the primary, most of the famous oil leaks on shovels were related to the primary lube system. You have to many different parts trying to seal together to stop all the leaks. The best thing to do is to put a primary belt on it, shut off the oil and put it back together all stock. There is one main rule to keeping a shovel on the road-PUT IT TOGETHER RIGHT. Happy Trails
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Bayside Melbourne
With oil cooler
Just put a new oil cooler on as it felt it was running a little hot. Found a temp dipstick. Here in Australia it's about 32 Celsius and my oil is at about 110-120 on the reading. Just wondering if the dipstick temp guages are Celsius or Fahrenheit?
