need some help
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Stage II
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
need some help
hey guys,
i have a 71 shovel on a flyrite bobber frame. i just got it serviced the other day and everything was good. But i got on it yesterday and as i was riding it, it started knocking and it felt like it was almost running out of gas or something. Then it died and i couldnt start it again. Now, it rained the other day and may have gotten some water in the carborator or something. unfortunately i dont know alot about bikes, so can anyone help me out with this? If i did get water in the carb, what can i do to fix it? They tell me that these motors spit oil but it shouldnt have been out if it only set in my yard for three days right?
i have a 71 shovel on a flyrite bobber frame. i just got it serviced the other day and everything was good. But i got on it yesterday and as i was riding it, it started knocking and it felt like it was almost running out of gas or something. Then it died and i couldnt start it again. Now, it rained the other day and may have gotten some water in the carborator or something. unfortunately i dont know alot about bikes, so can anyone help me out with this? If i did get water in the carb, what can i do to fix it? They tell me that these motors spit oil but it shouldnt have been out if it only set in my yard for three days right?
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
The very first thing you should do is buy the service manual (factory) and the parts manual. Most shops don't have anyone with knowledge about shovelheads. If you are going to own one you are going to have to learn.
In the mean time, until you get the manual, check the basics, fuel level, oil level, battery charge and connection. Look for broken or loose wires. Unless you left the gas cap off or run without an air cleaner, I doubt you got water in the carb. I don't know what type of carb you have but most have a drain or you can drop the float bowl to check to see if it has water. Catch it in a clean container.
When you say, you just had it serviced, what did they do?
In the mean time, until you get the manual, check the basics, fuel level, oil level, battery charge and connection. Look for broken or loose wires. Unless you left the gas cap off or run without an air cleaner, I doubt you got water in the carb. I don't know what type of carb you have but most have a drain or you can drop the float bowl to check to see if it has water. Catch it in a clean container.
When you say, you just had it serviced, what did they do?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
It's hard to say without actually hearing the knock but it could be something simple as point plate loose and slipped causing the timing to advance way too far. Worst case and by the symptoms described, it could be a seized piston.
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Stage II
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
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Well i tried to start it yesterday and when i did there was smoke coming out of the carb and it was backfiring...like it needed to warm up or something. so i tried to keep it going but it never got better. Then i noticed the bolt on the underside of the carb started spewing gas....i think the o-ring is shot...i was told i need a carb rebuild kit..and one of the push rods was lose....an where it connects to the bottom of the motor...that flange was spewing oil....so my question is do i need a new carb and push rod...if so am i out a !@#$load of money....
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 572
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Worth, Texas
As mentioned earlier you really need a service manual. Sounds like you have a loose pushrod and need to start by adjusting it. What did they do when they serviced your bike cause if they adjusted the pushrods then you definately need to take it back and have them fix it under warranty. I would call and ask them what they did if your unsure.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
What type of carb? It could be you have a stuck fuel valve that is flooding the motor.
The leak from the pushrod base is from a bad cork seal. No big deal to replace but you have to remove the pushrod to do it. To replace the pushrod after replacing the seals you need to readjust it. If it is a hydraulic lifter type and you do it wrong you will bend a valve or pushrod. You need the manual.
Your timing might have changed by the points plate slipping if the service guy failed to tighten it. Static timing on a Shovel is simple and accurate. Here is a video from youtube on setting the timing on a Sportster. The procedure is exactly the same for a Shovelhead. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A
If you don't have a meter like the guy in the video you can use a cheap test light. Leave the wires connected, conect the clip to the point connection and the point of the test light to a ground. You have to leave the ignition on with the light method.
Here is a photo of what is should look like. I have the light positioned where you can see it in the photo you can ground it anywhere that's convenient. I use a modified pair of pliers rather than loosening the condensor.
The leak from the pushrod base is from a bad cork seal. No big deal to replace but you have to remove the pushrod to do it. To replace the pushrod after replacing the seals you need to readjust it. If it is a hydraulic lifter type and you do it wrong you will bend a valve or pushrod. You need the manual.
Your timing might have changed by the points plate slipping if the service guy failed to tighten it. Static timing on a Shovel is simple and accurate. Here is a video from youtube on setting the timing on a Sportster. The procedure is exactly the same for a Shovelhead. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A
If you don't have a meter like the guy in the video you can use a cheap test light. Leave the wires connected, conect the clip to the point connection and the point of the test light to a ground. You have to leave the ignition on with the light method.
Here is a photo of what is should look like. I have the light positioned where you can see it in the photo you can ground it anywhere that's convenient. I use a modified pair of pliers rather than loosening the condensor.
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