I'll think the brake pedal is returning all the way but I'll double check.....thanks, I'll have to take a few more pics. Around here a bike like this in the condition its in will go for around 7k normally, I picked this one up for 5....around here the bike was a steal.

 

Ok, so I checked to see if there would be a jet of fluid when I pumped the pedal and there was nothing. So the master cylinder seems to be the problem. So do I need to buy a kit or just replace the whole thing? Any Idea where I can buy either....I see a few kits on ebay for around 12 bucks. If I do do a kit, can you give me a quick runthrough of what I need to do, I have replaced more than a few master cylinders but have never put a kit in one.

 

Sometimes the jet of fluid is not particularly noticeable, but there should be something going on.
Of course, as many would know, sometimes the jet will come flying right out, and go all over your paint.

Many adhere to the rule that you do not blow compressed air through a brake line, as oil/moisture in the air gives a problem. Perhaps with modern machinery this is not such a problem, but it used to be.
Air is useful in all this, however, and I use it in the lines, but I have a good compressor system.

You need to make sure that every aspect is correct.
As in, is the rotor bent?
Is my caliper correctly mounted?
Is my caliper full of dried gunk and crusty bits?(common)
Is my brake line old, and internally collapsed?(common with the original rubber type)
Has my brake fluid been in there for forever?
Are the adjustments on my foot controls allowing correct operation?
Is my master cyl clean, with the right kit installed?

With a few basic tools, you could have that apart in a short time.
Just have at it.
Whether or not you need a kit, or whether or not a kit will suffice, will not be known "for sure" until you pull it all apart.

You should try to develop a habit of extreme thoroughness in addressing any problem, thereby fully eliminating any further issues from that area.

With the year/model you own, this is almost a service procedure.

If all looks ok from a "mechanical" viewpoint(meaning adjustments and the like) you need to take the m/cyl apart , and see what kind of shape it is in.

If it is all corroded in there, a new m/cyl could be the go.

It may be in good shape, including the internals, and you can just clean up and go again. Might just be gunky. A good cleanout, and it could last for years. You don't know until you look.

I know it will take longer to not order the parts first, but you really do not know what you need right now.

If you get stuck, just post here.

I have no doubt that there are many who know the answers you need.

Of course I/we/they will help you, if possible.

 

I had trouble with mine years back. I adjusted the rod to tight, so there was very little free play and just going down the road hitting bumps whatever it would apply and stay tight.

 

Okay, so bled the hell out of the whole brake system. The manual calls for DOT 5 brake fluid so I went and picked up some fluid and bled the brakes. One thing I noticed was the new Harley DOT 5 fluid was purple and the fluid in the system was pretty much clear....was Harley DOT 5 fluid clear back in the day? It is possible the system has never been bled. ALOT of junk came out.....alot of dirt and what looked to be moisture. I bled it until all I got was pure purple. One thing I noticed was before there was no "jet" that came out of the master cylinder when I pumped the pedal......after I bled it a few times the "jet" came back. Is it possible the system had soo much junk in it that the junk was causing the problem?

I took it for a test ride after flushing the sytem clean......and the problem did not come back. I only rode the bike 2 or 3 miles but it didn't seem like problem was coming back at all. the pedal stayed the same.....did not get hard like it did before. The brakes did not drag. Maybe I need to ride it a few more miles but It seemed like before after about a mile the brakes started to drag. I got home and felt the brake caliper.....it was hot....so here is my next question.....How much heat are these brakes supposed to make? The calipar was warm, the disc was hot. Is this normal, not sure how much heat the brakes are supposed to produce.

when the brakes were dragging before they were searing hot....couldn't even touch them.

 

Some heat is obviously normal. Quite a lot, actually.
But as long as the brake is working fine, and the disc is not turning blue, and not dragging, it is all fine.
"junk" can definitely be the problem.

Dot 5 always starts out purple. This is a product trait, not just brand. This means it is fresh.
As it ages, it becomes clear, and then yellow.
Yellow means it is way too old.
Clear means you should certainly change it, but it is not a disaster.

If there was no sign of the "jet", and now there is, it looks like you may have cleared an obstruction.

You just have to be careful about doing "long" bleeding strokes, as corrosion often builds up in areas where the piston does not normally travel, and can cause damage to the rubber cup when it is moved further down the bore than usual.

But if it is working well, then all good.

 

thank you for all the help, hopfully this will be the end of the problem. The old fluid was had a light yellowish tint, so it was long past due. I didn't even think about the long bleeding strokes, I will remember that in the future.

 

damn it, the problem came back. I am at a loss. I called the old owner and got his info on what he knew about it. He said it started doing that to him......brakes would drag after riding a couple miles. So he had the rear disc/caliper replaced and replaced the rear rubber brake line, but he said the problem was still there. I followed the brake lines to see if they ran too close to the exhaust but it looked okay.....any other ideas?

 

What master cylinder are you using the early wagner style or the later type? The wagner style is a cast rounded iron part the later has square corners. The wagner style was used with both drum and disc brakes but with a difference. You have to remove the check valve and seat to use them with disc brakes. After market wagner cylinders come with the check valve installed and you have to take it out.

 

the master cylinder has square corners, and as far as I know its origional to this bike.