I recently inherrited my late brother's ride. It is a 69 FLH. It is a pretty bike when it is cleaned up, but had been neglected for 8+ years. It is in the process of being worked on by a local independant mechanic of good repute. He has had the top end pulled down, new rings put in, new spokes and rims, rubber, battery, and front master cylinder installed. He cleaned out the carb and gas tanks, and put all new gaskets on the bike. I took the bike home and it ran strong initially but was not charging. I tried kicking it when it would'nt button start, but must have kicked it 100 times with only 2 starts that quickly sputtered out. The mechanic has the bike again and has found that the voltage regulator was burned out and the generator brushes needed to be replaced or worked on. I have also asked him to completely re-wire the bike, as my bro was just like my dad, and jerry-rigged everything (I think my dad wired a BSA with speaker wire in the early 80's). I want this bike to run solid and trouble free. I plan on cleaning it up (lots of rubbing chrome and aluminum in my near future) and posting some pics. I have a lot of questions concerning this bike though.
1) YEAR The vin starts 68FLH, but is titled as a 1969. it was first registered in the first half of 1968. What gives? what is the real year?
2) RELIABILITY What should I do to insure maximum reliability on a bike that had sat so long? and what type of reliability can I reasonably expect from a 42 year old bike that hasn't always been maintained properly?
3) HEAT ADJUSTMENTS I live in southern AZ where temperatures are 100+ for months at a time, what type of oil should I run, what adjustments should I make to the bike? My mechanic has a 70 FLH and is an longtime old school biker. He recomended that I remove the oil cooler my brother had on the bike. He said it only cooled the oil about 2 degrees, and the strain on the oil pump was not worth the return. I deferred to his experience.
4) KICKSTART The bike has kick and electric start. The kick barely worked for the short time I had it. I told the mechanic that the kick felt like it would slip a bit, He is currently replacing a gear that had rounded off teeth. With the new volt. reg., kicker gear, and rewiring, how easily should my bike kickstart (engine is basically stock, no stroke or major bore)?
5) POLISHING/ CLEANING -Luckily I live in AZ where things barely rust. I wont say they don't rust because after 8 years exposed to monsoons, there are some bolts and nuts that are rusted. Most of the covers and the forks are in decent shape, but have a dull patina setting over them. What is the best, easiest, safest method of restoring the shine to the metal. Any good products that are widely recomended? The paint on this bike is a custom ghost flame job. The paint is DULL! What can I use to safely clean it up and add some luster?
6) VALUE- I am not selling this bike, it has tremendous sentimental value to me, and I have always liked this bike. According to what I've read, the flat-side shovels are more coveted than 70 and later shovels. The bike is not stock, but has not been chopped either. Most of the extra stuff has been stripped off this one-time dresser. Much of this stuff is sitting in crates. I want to know for insurance purposes and my own edification what a 68/69 clean titled, good running, decently clean, FLH is worth (I know it's worth what someone will pay for it, but what can I expect the market to bear?)
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First off 1969 left case had a special engine sprocket shaft seal only suited for 1969 1968 and back were different if you can get a pic of the seal that presses into the left case to seal off the internal engine oil OR give me the dimensions I'll let you know If you really want to go that far

 

As soon as I get it back I'll snap some pics. I have read about some mechanical differences for the 69. Are the differences between the 68 and 69 significant? Will they impact the type of maintenance required? The research I've done reference vin format says that the first two digits are the model year, is it common for the title to reflect a different year? or was this a mistake somewhere along the way?

 

Get a shop and parts manual. If you ride old iron you need to be able to do at least the basics and then some. Did you mention the electrical system to your indie? Testing it would have revealed the problem and it would not be in the shop again. You can save a bundle by doing things like wiring. Old iron wiring is extremely basic...Did your indie use a sealed AGM type battery? If not do it

1 - Prior to 70 HDs are registered by the VIN number. If it starts with 68FLH****, it should be that on the pink as well. Is your pop still around in order to make the inquiry. Only other thing you might try is to go to your local DMV office and explain the problem and see if they can fix it. And just confirm that the vin on the motor and title are exactly the same except for the year?

2 - Reliability equates to regular maintenance, pre-ride inspections and such...such as 2500 mile oil changes (engine and tranny), greasing zirc fittings, chain inspection (primary as well as rear wheel), looking for loose parts that will always fall off at the worst time, draining fork oil at proper intervals, insuring you check your tappet screen when you change oil.

3 - Everyone will give you an opinion about oil (kinda like a$$holes right, everyone has one). I run 60 wt HD oil in my 65 pan. Always have, always will. Live in Kali, People's Repuklic Of, and while we do not get the months of June-September heat that you get we do get some warm days. Might think about 70 wt during those really hot months then switching back. Just an opinion. Oh some one will recommend sealing your primary off and dicking around with the oil system. Again it is an opinion. Yes I understand that it is common since the days of the evos, but properly maintained the stock set up will perform well. Last thoughts... I recommend against oil pressure gauges because you will drive yourself nuts looking at it and wondering....am I getting enough oil?. If you are that curious pull up the seat, pop the cap, pull the filter and look inside the tank with the engine running. You got return to the tank, you are good to go. Old iron cools through the cylinder. Expect some oil consumption if you are riding in 115 heat.

4 - Your indie is replacing the kicker gear...beware V-Twin and J&P gears are **** IMHO. The problem is the bronze bushing in the gear that crumbles when pressure is applied. You will be better off with NOS or Baker (expensive yes but definitely a very good product). Kick starting is a technique and an art unto itself. It is dependent on things like timing and carb set up (BTW I assume he used NEW o-rings for you carbs to intake manifold and that he pressure tested them to insure they do not leak - a big problem if they do and you try to kick). Please be aware that your bike will absolutely front you out at the end of the night when you are ready to go home (or anywhere there is a large crowd watching you as you go to kick) and not start on the first try because that's the way there are (think it's a power trip thing)

5 - For aluminum parts to keep the original look something like an aluminum cleaner, etching cleaner. If you are not concerned about original finish, polish away. I use Mc Guires wax. They make a whole array of cleaners and waxes.

6 - Sentimental value = 0 for insurance purpose or otherwise. Ultimately it is worth what you would be willing to sell it for and what the buyer would be willing to pay. KBB is a start, but they figure on stock with no mods. Not sure if genny shovels are worth more but they are definitely popular. Shovel prices are depressed, though if you look at some of the prices on ebay and craigslist, most everyone thinks the own the Crown Jewels and ask accordingly. Think 6-7K could be a fair price (pics will help though) and to me that would be in perfect running condition and a spit-n-shine condition.

 

PANZ4EVER, Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I will be heeding your advice. I plan on getting a quality manual and getting familiar with my ride. Unfortunately my old man died in a MC crash in 85, and I lost my older brother 2 years ago. These guys did all their own ****. Dad was a tool and die maker and an all-around McGyver. Me- Ehhh.

 

Shovels do require tinkering. You don't want to have to pay someone for every little thing that goes wrong and they will. If your willing to try then buy an official H-D service manual, even if it's a used one, they're available on Ebay often. I think the Title got screwed up at the DMV, as long as the Vin is correct on the document your safe. You may open a can of worms if you try to straighten it out.

 

FLH 80, so your saying it should be a 1968 per the vin, and all the associated mechanical differences should coincide with it being a 1968? This isn't like with cars, where the car is manufactured in 2009 but the model is a 2010? I will be getting a manual. My brother also left behind a decent set of tools. He was a plumber, and wrenched his own ride. I have been lazy, but this bike inspires me to become more self sufficient.