Clutch lever going slack??
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: GA
Clutch lever going slack??
Bought a new bike last week (my first Shovel a 75 FXE, finally!) All worked well then the clutch lever started getting slack and finally wouldn't engage the clutch. I adjusted the cable and it worked beautifully for roughly five miles and slowly went slack again.
Ideas?
Ideas?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,499
Likes: 3,717
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
I would pull the primary cover and disassemble the clutch pack, clean and inspect all components, including the clutch pushrod and throw out bearing. Replace obviously worn out parts. Put it back together per the manual and then test it again.
Make sure you do the adjustment with the bike cold.
If you have a question about whether the part is still serviceable, post up a pic. Beats trying to describe what you are looking at.
Congrats on the new ride. Can't beat old iron. How about a pic of the new bike?
Make sure you do the adjustment with the bike cold.
If you have a question about whether the part is still serviceable, post up a pic. Beats trying to describe what you are looking at.
Congrats on the new ride. Can't beat old iron. How about a pic of the new bike?
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,126
Likes: 51,454
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Like the man said probably the clutch pushrod adjusting screw , once they start to eat themselves it won't stay in adjustment very long . May time for a new heavy duty cable too avoid the cheaper ones if you can they stretch like crazy .
PS clean bike and looker too . Theres no comparison between this bike and sporties bro as your finding out .
PS clean bike and looker too . Theres no comparison between this bike and sporties bro as your finding out .
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; May 7, 2011 at 02:45 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 313
Likes: 2
From: somewhere in "The Peoples' Republic of Illinois
Yes it should have an old style bearing, but we don't know this bikes' history. Something is making the throwout rod and adjuster screw eat each other, I think. If someone changed the OEM bearing with the 'wafer' type you could have such a result, eventually. Could be it was replaced by a HD shop when the OE part showed obsolete. Or part missplaced and replaced by what is available.
I am refitting my '78 FXE for my cousin and he has 'lost' many parts he should not have lost. This bike has cost much more to build due to this and some parts are no longer available. I am not one to 'throw' a bike together and making it as good as it was has been frustrating. I some times think he disassembled everything and threw it into a corner. Might as well as started with a basket case.
Really wish I hadn't sold this bike. It has been a good machine served me well.
I am refitting my '78 FXE for my cousin and he has 'lost' many parts he should not have lost. This bike has cost much more to build due to this and some parts are no longer available. I am not one to 'throw' a bike together and making it as good as it was has been frustrating. I some times think he disassembled everything and threw it into a corner. Might as well as started with a basket case.
Really wish I hadn't sold this bike. It has been a good machine served me well.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 306
Likes: 7
From: Somewhere, PA
Cadillac, if you get to the point of pulling the clutch plates I would do the following while you're in there:
1.) Clean the fibers and steels with brake cleaner, gas, kero, etc. to remove the gunk.
2.) Take your fiber plates to the nearest spot of flat concrete and "scuff" them by doing about ten or fifteen "figure 8s" on each side.
3.) Stack your steel plates on top of one another to ensure that they are flat. Seeing a lot of light in-between the plates will be a sign that they are warped from heat and need replaced. Might also want to check that the ball bearings are in the tips of the clips.
4.) Check the studs on your clutch hub. If they are worn with grooves, this can catch on your plates and not allow for smooth clutch movement. Fine-grit sandpaper or a scotch brite pad can smooth these out a bit. You can also drill the holes one size larger in your fiber plates which will allow for easier movement.
5.) If you see that the clutch hub nut is leaking through the center, the seals are cheap, easy to replace, and i sometimes run two of them (one on top of the other).
My .02
Hobo
1.) Clean the fibers and steels with brake cleaner, gas, kero, etc. to remove the gunk.
2.) Take your fiber plates to the nearest spot of flat concrete and "scuff" them by doing about ten or fifteen "figure 8s" on each side.
3.) Stack your steel plates on top of one another to ensure that they are flat. Seeing a lot of light in-between the plates will be a sign that they are warped from heat and need replaced. Might also want to check that the ball bearings are in the tips of the clips.
4.) Check the studs on your clutch hub. If they are worn with grooves, this can catch on your plates and not allow for smooth clutch movement. Fine-grit sandpaper or a scotch brite pad can smooth these out a bit. You can also drill the holes one size larger in your fiber plates which will allow for easier movement.
5.) If you see that the clutch hub nut is leaking through the center, the seals are cheap, easy to replace, and i sometimes run two of them (one on top of the other).
My .02
Hobo
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,126
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Look at the adjusting screw in the pressure plate first , those like to eat themselves once in while . You'll adjust it and before the test ride is over you have slack and dragging clutch again . If that's it you have to change it and the throw out rod that goes through the tranny .
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: GA
Sorry to bump this old topic buy I'm JUST NOW getting around to pulling it apart!?! If you guys could answer a few questions about these pictures I'd be grateful beyond words!!
1. The oil slinger means it's new wafer style right? Shouldn't the bearing be between these 2 washers? (came outta the tranny exactly add you see)
2. Can you tell if this cover will allow me to go back with the old style?
1. The oil slinger means it's new wafer style right? Shouldn't the bearing be between these 2 washers? (came outta the tranny exactly add you see)
2. Can you tell if this cover will allow me to go back with the old style?