Kick Start
#1
10-29-2011, 05:14 AM
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Kick Start
Hi guys once again another question.My 1980 Wide Glide is kick only,It has nothing for a starter,no solenoid,shafts,gears,nothing.Its gonna cost somewhere around $500 unless I find it all used.My question is what are the best steps to take for the easiest kick starts.(Better coil,timing,ect)any help will be appriciated.Thanks
Tim
Tim
#2
10-30-2011, 04:45 AM
To me, it's not worth it to put an electric starter back on, unless you have a disability that keeps you from kicking it.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
#3
11-03-2011, 12:27 PM
Tourer
Kick Start
To me, it's not worth it to put an electric starter back on, unless you have a disability that keeps you from kicking it.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
#4
11-03-2011, 02:15 PM
Club Member
To me, it's not worth it to put an electric starter back on, unless you have a disability that keeps you from kicking it.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
Your start-up proceedure and tune has everything to do with how easy it starts, and even then it can be hard headed. Resign yourself to the fact that when you NEED it to start, or there are twenty yups standing there watching, it will get hardheaded.
On mine, with my tune, cold start-up was a matter of opening the throttle three times (key off), pull the enrichner or choke, key on and one kick. Warm was just key on and one kick, no throttle.
I found that start-ups were much easier when the single fire ignition was invented.
There is a point there as trust worthy and well tuned as I keep mine she will on occasion live up the name " Bitch " .
Each bike is different for starting , all depends on the hardware , condition and tuning . Everything up to snuff should take 1 or 2 , something off and you know that game already . Start hitting swap meets and watching the local Craigs listing real regular , you should be able to pick all you need under $200 easy . Also check the want ads in here there's a guy with a boat load of older stuff for sale , pics are down but he still sells at good prices just takes him a while to respond sometimes .
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/class...-for-sale.html
#5
11-03-2011, 10:46 PM
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I'm considering taking the electric start off of my '76. It has an aftermarket single fire, dual plug electronic ignition, and starts reliably with the kicker. The electric setup works, but I honestly don't know what the condition of the components is, so I wouldn't be comfortable selling it. Much of the rest of the bike is pretty beat. I usually keep all removed parts for 'just in case' anyway.
On my first resurrection of my Pan, it was hard to start. I tested the coil with an ohmmeter, and it checked good. I rewired the switch, coil, and points, made new plug wires, replaced the points and condenser, and got it to where it would start fairly easily cold, but it was still a bitch to start hot.
One Sunday, I rode to Sebastian, FL, with some friends, to a bar called Earl's, on AIA. As luck would have it, the only place to park was directly in front of the open bar. Having gone through hell getting it restarted at a bar stop on the way, I cringed at the thought of going through that again in front of a crowd of strangers. We had a couple of brews, and decided to leave entirely too soon for my comfort, but what the hell...
I walked out to the Pan, turned on the gas and ignition, stomped the kicker, and the old sweetie roared to life! I heard someone behind me yell PANHEAD, and heard a cheer from the bar. I never cussed that bike again.
Shortly thereafter, I checked the coil again, while hot, and realized that it was bad, but didn't show it when cold. A new coil made a world of difference.
On my first resurrection of my Pan, it was hard to start. I tested the coil with an ohmmeter, and it checked good. I rewired the switch, coil, and points, made new plug wires, replaced the points and condenser, and got it to where it would start fairly easily cold, but it was still a bitch to start hot.
One Sunday, I rode to Sebastian, FL, with some friends, to a bar called Earl's, on AIA. As luck would have it, the only place to park was directly in front of the open bar. Having gone through hell getting it restarted at a bar stop on the way, I cringed at the thought of going through that again in front of a crowd of strangers. We had a couple of brews, and decided to leave entirely too soon for my comfort, but what the hell...
I walked out to the Pan, turned on the gas and ignition, stomped the kicker, and the old sweetie roared to life! I heard someone behind me yell PANHEAD, and heard a cheer from the bar. I never cussed that bike again.
Shortly thereafter, I checked the coil again, while hot, and realized that it was bad, but didn't show it when cold. A new coil made a world of difference.
#6
11-03-2011, 11:00 PM
Club Member
Coils can be a real pain when they go flakey like that and some guys are just too hard headed to understand when you tell them . Good catch on your part .
PS the ign. setup you have on the shovel is my personal favorite . Lotta people boohoo dual plugs on a shovel but when they are combined with single fire it does make a solid difference in starting alone .
PS the ign. setup you have on the shovel is my personal favorite . Lotta people boohoo dual plugs on a shovel but when they are combined with single fire it does make a solid difference in starting alone .
#7
11-03-2011, 11:39 PM
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In my opinion, anything with a hemispherical combustion chamber benefits greatly from dual plugs, unless you are running low compression and even then, it helps.
Edited to add Great avatar, Twizted. Nice Shovel too. I'm on the verge of talking self into a 4 3/4" set of wheels a friend has available. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow due to rocker arm end play, and it wouldn't take much more to pull the cylinders to re-ring it, and of course I have to check the rod play if I pull the cylinders... I'm sure you know how that goes.
Edited to add Great avatar, Twizted. Nice Shovel too. I'm on the verge of talking self into a 4 3/4" set of wheels a friend has available. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow due to rocker arm end play, and it wouldn't take much more to pull the cylinders to re-ring it, and of course I have to check the rod play if I pull the cylinders... I'm sure you know how that goes.
Last edited by Panshovevo; 11-03-2011 at 11:46 PM.
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#8
11-04-2011, 12:00 AM
Club Member
In my opinion, anything with a hemispherical combustion chamber benefits greatly from dual plugs, unless you are running low compression and even then, it helps.
Edited to add Great avatar, Twizted. Nice Shovel too. I'm on the verge of talking self into a 4 3/4" set of wheels a friend has available. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow due to rocker arm end play, and it wouldn't take much more to pull the cylinders to re-ring it, and of course I have to check the rod play if I pull the cylinders... I'm sure you know how that goes.
Edited to add Great avatar, Twizted. Nice Shovel too. I'm on the verge of talking self into a 4 3/4" set of wheels a friend has available. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow due to rocker arm end play, and it wouldn't take much more to pull the cylinders to re-ring it, and of course I have to check the rod play if I pull the cylinders... I'm sure you know how that goes.
While I love the juice I have to buy racing gas at big $$$ and mix other wise she gets ignorant around town stop lighting .
#9
11-04-2011, 08:04 PM
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#10
11-04-2011, 11:05 PM
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