Starter "kicking back?"
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Check your timing advance unit 8 out of 10 bikes I see that run one are bad . The weights wobble out and start hitting the inside of the cone housing bouncing them all over the place , you'll never get the timing right . If you do need one drop the extra $20 bucks and get one of the stainless steel units Rivera still makes and just lube every spring they will last forever in the average shovel .
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From: GA
See What'd I say bout you being dead on @Twizted? Lol please look at this video I made lemme know if I've got too much "wobble"
Thanks again!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY0r...e_gdata_player
Thanks again!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY0r...e_gdata_player
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,446
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Look on the edge of the blue weights , see that scuffed off area ? That's where they usually are hitting the inside of the nosecone . Pull the weights and look at the pins they are probably worn with a bit of a taper towards the top I couldn't really tell in the vid . If you can rock those weights any way but straight in & out their on their way out and those spring are gone . Doesn't look as bad as most I see and that was a better unit , the cheap all black ones are to be avoided , 2 seasons max if you ride any . I'd say those are still usable with some new springs but keep an eye out for a deal a new one you'll be due soon .
Bolt it back in a run the bike over and see if it run true and even , no wobble up or down .
I've had a number of the aftermarket flyweight cam lobes be way off also . Put it all together , set the point gap on the small lobe then roll her over and check the gap again on the big side . I've got a box of the aftermarket ones that were as much .025" different brand new , points would open past .050" on the fat side on some .
I use to time mine by getting the flyweigths right , checking the point gap and if your close both sides it'll fly ok . Pull the timing plug get the front cyl. up on the compression stoke and center the timing mark in the window . Your timing is 2 1/2 deg retarded to the front of the hole the same advanced to the rear either side of center in the hole .I hook a up a small test light to the wire post on the points & ground it then rotate the points plate till lights , back it off an redo it a couple times you'll get the feel and nail it down . Done right your within 5 deg or less checked with a light usually .
From here just make sure plug wires are good and clean plugs , add .005" to the plug gap too makes a difference today's plugs they can be run up to .040" on a shovel easy .
Good luck man
Bolt it back in a run the bike over and see if it run true and even , no wobble up or down .
I've had a number of the aftermarket flyweight cam lobes be way off also . Put it all together , set the point gap on the small lobe then roll her over and check the gap again on the big side . I've got a box of the aftermarket ones that were as much .025" different brand new , points would open past .050" on the fat side on some .
I use to time mine by getting the flyweigths right , checking the point gap and if your close both sides it'll fly ok . Pull the timing plug get the front cyl. up on the compression stoke and center the timing mark in the window . Your timing is 2 1/2 deg retarded to the front of the hole the same advanced to the rear either side of center in the hole .I hook a up a small test light to the wire post on the points & ground it then rotate the points plate till lights , back it off an redo it a couple times you'll get the feel and nail it down . Done right your within 5 deg or less checked with a light usually .
From here just make sure plug wires are good and clean plugs , add .005" to the plug gap too makes a difference today's plugs they can be run up to .040" on a shovel easy .
Good luck man
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From: GA
That's one of the things that confused me about the timing method I read. The feller says get the small dot just inside the timing hole (back edge touching back edge) the "back edge"can have multiple interpretations! But, you say center the dot am I correct? I'll go your route when I can
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
You shoot for center with points but the back works fine , you have a lot play room .
I'd roll the engine through a couple times slow and watch your marks in the peep hole so you get a feel for which one is what you also can look at the top of the piston to get an idea where your at degree wise . Just gets you familiar with your bike and how it all relates and I have run across a few the had the wrong marks on the flywheels , rare but has happened that's why I do the above tests .
I'd roll the engine through a couple times slow and watch your marks in the peep hole so you get a feel for which one is what you also can look at the top of the piston to get an idea where your at degree wise . Just gets you familiar with your bike and how it all relates and I have run across a few the had the wrong marks on the flywheels , rare but has happened that's why I do the above tests .
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From: GA
Lemme ask you one more question that's been bugging me, setting the points gap. How do you recommend doing that? Most stuff I've read just says set to .18 small lobe then on fat lobe but hell when you move the points any it puts the small lobe at a different gap?!?! I just try to get em as close to even as possible and call it good sometimes like .21 or am I adjusting something wrong?
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,446
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Follow the checks I listed above , that will tell you if all your hardware is ok or causing the problems . That cam lobe and point gap thing is a biggy .
Just to test set the points at .18" on the small the roll the engine over the big and check again , don't move the plate .
Just to test set the points at .18" on the small the roll the engine over the big and check again , don't move the plate .
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,446
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Follow the checks I listed above , that will tell you if all your hardware is ok or causing the problems . That cam lobe and point gap thing is a biggy .
Just to test set the points at .18" on the small the roll the engine over the big and check again , don't move the plate or points doing it .
Just to test set the points at .18" on the small the roll the engine over the big and check again , don't move the plate or points doing it .