Rigid frame shovel project
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
yes it is an end oil pinion shaft the Wheels are S&S
the cam cover came off a 91
I am going to be shopping for a new {used} one since I relieved the oil hole to match the main oil feed port that is why the old style oil pump was oiling the lower end. {this one has road rash big time was planning on a better one at some point any how}.
I had a good conversation with Dan Baisley he explained what I had read a couple times he explained what I just wasn't understanding. He said to look at it this way, the 73 up oil pumps have 2 windows one going to the top end with full oil pressure the 2nd window to the lower end with low oil pressure only a few pounds. the regulator valve come in to play at that point? HD was doing this getting ready for the EVO design with the car like lifters which need more oil pressure.
matching the cam cover to the cases like I did got full oil pressure to the crank but Dan said ultimately there would be too much oil getting to the crank cases and could cause blow by especially with the 4 3/4 stroke my 93 in has. After I did the test blocking to top end oil and spinning the engine and got so much oil that was a concern that came to mind also adding the oil from the top end if the oil was going up there also would have been a LOT of oil to the crankcase. This is opposite oiling from when I built my 573 big block mopar I restrict oil to the top end oiling and increase oil to the bottom end.
I'd guess when Tedd cycle sells the US made Sifton cams like the one I got from them they will be gone. the 109 was the only one they had in stock and the others didn't list as back ordered..
the guy I got the wrong oil pump from will return my $$ if i want so that is a good deal.
the cam cover came off a 91
I am going to be shopping for a new {used} one since I relieved the oil hole to match the main oil feed port that is why the old style oil pump was oiling the lower end. {this one has road rash big time was planning on a better one at some point any how}.
I had a good conversation with Dan Baisley he explained what I had read a couple times he explained what I just wasn't understanding. He said to look at it this way, the 73 up oil pumps have 2 windows one going to the top end with full oil pressure the 2nd window to the lower end with low oil pressure only a few pounds. the regulator valve come in to play at that point? HD was doing this getting ready for the EVO design with the car like lifters which need more oil pressure.
matching the cam cover to the cases like I did got full oil pressure to the crank but Dan said ultimately there would be too much oil getting to the crank cases and could cause blow by especially with the 4 3/4 stroke my 93 in has. After I did the test blocking to top end oil and spinning the engine and got so much oil that was a concern that came to mind also adding the oil from the top end if the oil was going up there also would have been a LOT of oil to the crankcase. This is opposite oiling from when I built my 573 big block mopar I restrict oil to the top end oiling and increase oil to the bottom end.
I'd guess when Tedd cycle sells the US made Sifton cams like the one I got from them they will be gone. the 109 was the only one they had in stock and the others didn't list as back ordered..
the guy I got the wrong oil pump from will return my $$ if i want so that is a good deal.
Last edited by Rodney; Apr 16, 2014 at 09:27 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
63 Dodge got it to run hi 9's 135 mph at Woodburn a few years ago.
it is a unique situation I wrench on the owners cars built this one with his $$ {I don't have that kind of $$}
he drives my 69 Dart I drive the 63 since I like going fast and he doesn't want to hassle with getting licensed with NHRA. It is fun but since my knee surgeries I haven't driven the car for a coupe years.. I am thinking of driving again but my license is expired and the car will need to be re certified. And I have been spending most of my time on the rigid build and for the most part enjoying doing it a lot. Working on the race cars... everything is so much more work and heavier..
I was thinking of racing the rigid this year but will need to hurry to be ready at the end of the month if I want to race for points.
it is a unique situation I wrench on the owners cars built this one with his $$ {I don't have that kind of $$}
he drives my 69 Dart I drive the 63 since I like going fast and he doesn't want to hassle with getting licensed with NHRA. It is fun but since my knee surgeries I haven't driven the car for a coupe years.. I am thinking of driving again but my license is expired and the car will need to be re certified. And I have been spending most of my time on the rigid build and for the most part enjoying doing it a lot. Working on the race cars... everything is so much more work and heavier..
I was thinking of racing the rigid this year but will need to hurry to be ready at the end of the month if I want to race for points.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
bumpers are fiberglass all the rest is steel.
3400 lbs with driver if I recall a little over 800 hp when I tested it on our Dyno.
I enjoy operating the dyno as much as driving the car. a lot to be learned on the dyno.
I ask Stuska the mfg. of the dyno if if would be possible to test V twin engines on it....
he said it has been tried but due to the vibration a v twin creates it is hard on the bearings on the water break... that would have been fun.
this image of the engine is with the Doug fender headers I run in the car for a couple sweeps.
the headers I use to test engines have EGT bungs welded in the tubes to monitor exhaust temp.
I have been thinking of welding the bungs on my shovel pipes to read the O2 and exhaust temps with my portable units
3400 lbs with driver if I recall a little over 800 hp when I tested it on our Dyno.
I enjoy operating the dyno as much as driving the car. a lot to be learned on the dyno.
I ask Stuska the mfg. of the dyno if if would be possible to test V twin engines on it....
he said it has been tried but due to the vibration a v twin creates it is hard on the bearings on the water break... that would have been fun.
this image of the engine is with the Doug fender headers I run in the car for a couple sweeps.
the headers I use to test engines have EGT bungs welded in the tubes to monitor exhaust temp.
I have been thinking of welding the bungs on my shovel pipes to read the O2 and exhaust temps with my portable units
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
finally got the mounts squared away so the drive train came out, time for some body work, molding and painting the frame this week. I've spend hours grinding cleaning up old brackets and welded the brace back in under the tank. built a tool box mount out of the one that I got with the box that didn't fit with the up sweep pipes, rear disc brake stay oil bag mounts. It all fits now 
many thanks to neighbor Ted for helping me lift the engine out.
many thanks to neighbor Ted for helping me lift the engine out.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
built mounts / frame to table, need to make something for the rear trans area then I'll haul the table and frame to the body shop and use the frame rack to move the neck to the left looking at the bike. now that I have a hold of it twisting the neck shouldn't take much to get it trued to the frame. I am concerned the rear axle area may move and it's perfect right now.. I may need to hold it solid before I start the pull..
the bar in the neck cups is a torsion bar from a 3/4 ton Chevy pu. just had to cut the splines off one end and a perfect fit. in the Harley manual is a page with dimensions for the frame to use to get C/L and to make a few measurements very handy to set the frame to the table.
the bar in the neck cups is a torsion bar from a 3/4 ton Chevy pu. just had to cut the splines off one end and a perfect fit. in the Harley manual is a page with dimensions for the frame to use to get C/L and to make a few measurements very handy to set the frame to the table.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
pulling the frame past center with over 2000 lbs on each towers, these frames are tough but if you have the pull in the correct spot they want to go back to neutral or pre-accident
The frame is straight now it took less than an hour to do the pull but several hours of prep to do it right.
The frame is straight now it took less than an hour to do the pull but several hours of prep to do it right.
Last edited by Rodney; Apr 22, 2014 at 04:37 PM.
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From: la la land jerzey
you will need to pay attention to the fit of the engine block and the trans plate as well as the trans case i dont remember if you have alloy or tin primarys - alloy is much less forgiving than the tin set up -
every bolt and mount in place and i ( Would use an alloy inner as a location correction )
dont be surprised you might have to use shims under the engine cases to square it, if it needs to be shimmed and you dont you will wipe out the rollers on the sprocket or pinion or both - correct clearance .0008 that is what we set them at
you have twisted the frame that had a memory every thing is now in a different spot caution should be used --
every bolt and mount in place and i ( Would use an alloy inner as a location correction )
dont be surprised you might have to use shims under the engine cases to square it, if it needs to be shimmed and you dont you will wipe out the rollers on the sprocket or pinion or both - correct clearance .0008 that is what we set them at
you have twisted the frame that had a memory every thing is now in a different spot caution should be used --