This thread is going to be heavily edited to keep my posts on topic and informative. The first change is that the thread is no longer about the install of FKC 101/102 cartridges. If you plan to install those, DO NOT GRIND THE END OF YOUR FORK TUBES AS I DID BELOW. This thread will now be about the installation of Ohlins NIX 30mm cartridge front suspension

When doing my research on suspension upgrades I found a ton of information on the conversion of Dyna front ends, but very little regarding putting Ohlins cartridges in a Rushmore. This will be a comprehensive thread covering the purchase, installation, set up and a product review once installed.

I purchased a used set of Ohlins 2-2A's from a forum member. They were built by Howard at Motorcycle Metal and have approximately 5k miles on them. The install of the rear shocks was straight forward. I have not been able to complete the setup due to the front end being disassembled at this point.

The NIX 30mm's were purchased from Howard directly. I viewed the videos on his website to familiarize myself with the disassembly and reassembly procedures. I like to have all of the tools and parts required to do a job ahead of time, but I found myself a little behind the curve on this one. Hopefully this thread will help others not end up in the same boat.

Tools to have on hand in addition to your normal selection of Harley Torx heads and hex bit wrenches:
Fork level oil gauge -
Long 12mm hex bit socket -http://www.tannerbolt.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=PRO%20J5441-12MXL&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9tW5BRDk29KDnqWu4fMBEiQAKj7sp3 o76lpQZ0NMjSX_LX2ASDK5LxEBmnCuZwuiDxs-PnMaAhS78P8HAQ

19mm Hex bit Socket

Adjustable Pin Spanner wrench: Found mine at Harbor Freight

I recommend watching Amy's videos on Howard's website. The high points I'm mentioning here are just supplemental hints that might help. The forks come off the bike fairly simply. If you're used to working on older bikes, it's worth noting that the fender nuts are now welded in place. No more nut locking tabs to fool with. There are two fork clamps holding each fork in place. I lowered the forks to the second clamp and then loosened the caps. This required a 19mm hex bit socket. You want to have this on hand as well as a 12mm long hex bit socket. Both of these tools can be difficult to find locally. I couldn't find them at Sears, Advance, O'reilly's, but wound up finding both at Harbor Freight.

Unfortunately, The "long 12mm" was too short.


Never fear... I have a tool for that.


Additionally, you need a section 1", 1.5" and 2" PVC pipe to use as drivers.


I cut a small piece of the 2" off and split it. I used it as soft jaws for the vise when holding the fork tube. After grinding the ends off and disassembling you're left with this:



That's as far as we've gotten at the moment. I'm patiently* waiting for my package to arrive from Florida. I'll update with more pics and details of the install and set up once they are received.

 

Grinding the ends off? Of what?



Oh, and I hate you. This thread is going to cost me my marriage.

 

The ends of the tubes have a pressed in retainer ring that you have to remove in order to press out the old check valve. I was nervous doing it, but a flap sanding disc on a 5" grinder made short work of it. Flipped it over, dropped in the 1" PVC pipe and with a couple hammer hits the rest of the internals were on the floor.

Oh, if this costs you money, consider it a payback for all of your posts about your Ohlins in the rear!

 

Damn karma....

 

Answer your e-Mails or call me!!!

This is a Dyno run showing the differences side by side NIX 30mm Ohlins (red line as it is adjustable) and the FKC 102 with stock valving using the center right run. The NIX 30mm Ohlins is far more powerful than the 25mm piston found in FKC-101/102.

 

Okay, so this thread just took a detour. If you are installing FKC 101-102's don't cut the end of your fork tube like I did.

If you do, you'll have to upgrade to the better NIX 30mm, or replace your fork tubes. Naturally, I chose the upgrade. I will be searching out a machine shop tomorrow to take .150" off of the threaded end of the fork tubes and then I will be awaiting my new adjustable cartridges from MM.

My stomach sunk when I read the post above. I've been excited about getting this bike back on the road. I appreciate Howard taking the late night call and getting me back on track.

 

situation corrected

Inquiring minds want to know: Do not remove check valve on a FKC-101/102 installation.

 

New powder coated fork lowers came in. They were cleaned thoroughly and I chased the metric threads for the pinch bolt on the right fork.


Fork tubes with .150" of an inch removed for the Ohlins install.

 

Special delivery!


You'll notice a trend of me making tools. I'm not too cheap to buy the things I need, but some of these tools would be used so rarely that it just didn't make sense. The fork clamp was one such item for me. Here is my solution, yours may be better, but this worked fine.

 

Good timing on this thread! Stock suspension on the '16 FLHXS is a little mushy for me, I was just looking at Ohlins HD 357 for the rear and the Progressive Suspension High Perf Cartridge Kit Stck 31-4000 for the front. I'd rather go with Ohlins in the forks though...