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I was told By FM that the TB porting is good for maybe 1-2hp. With My stock heads it didnt make much sense to do it. My next step is the FM 2/1/2 header and their VPC to hold the TQ. stock clutch will not hold the power now!!!
Where did you get that license plate frame? Is FM selling those? It's awesome!
been doing research lately and found a few issues maybe someone from fuel moto would chime in on. A local motorcycle shop that I trust claims I should stay away from this kits for 2 reasons, the cylinders being bored has potential of uncovering porosity in the factory sleeves when bored out. The other being heat, living in AZ this is always something to consider. They claim that due to the boring the cylinder walls are thinned out and will run hotter than what my current 103 dose, less material faster heat transfer.
They showed me the Revolution kit as well as the cut away I can see the difference, my question is has heat or porosity ever been an issue?
been doing research lately and found a few issues maybe someone from fuel moto would chime in on. A local motorcycle shop that I trust claims I should stay away from this kits for 2 reasons, the cylinders being bored has potential of uncovering porosity in the factory sleeves when bored out. The other being heat, living in AZ this is always something to consider. They claim that due to the boring the cylinder walls are thinned out and will run hotter than what my current 103 dose, less material faster heat transfer.
They showed me the Revolution kit as well as the cut away I can see the difference, my question is has heat or porosity ever been an issue?
I'm no engine expert, but I have a FM107 kit in my 2010 Ultra that has 23,000 miles on it. Its been from Wisconsin to Florida to Texas and back. I've sat in Atlanta traffic with the road temp at 120 deg. F and the bike was hotter than a firecracker. The bike still runs like a top.
To beat the heat get a good tune and synthetic oil. My FM107 actually runs cooler than a stock 103.
been doing research lately and found a few issues maybe someone from fuel moto would chime in on. A local motorcycle shop that I trust claims I should stay away from this kits for 2 reasons, the cylinders being bored has potential of uncovering porosity in the factory sleeves when bored out. The other being heat, living in AZ this is always something to consider. They claim that due to the boring the cylinder walls are thinned out and will run hotter than what my current 103 dose, less material faster heat transfer.
They showed me the Revolution kit as well as the cut away I can see the difference, my question is has heat or porosity ever been an issue?
I just took a trip to Iowa a couple weeks ago it was 90+ all weekend I put on about 500 miles. The bike ran hot yes but no hotter than a 103 motor. The motor had absolutely zero issues with the heat. A good tune as stated makes all the difference!
I didnt notice the heat from the 107 until I got stuck in traffic. I added the parade fans, and some mods to get the oil flowing a little better. The wards fans were the ticket, my next mod was going to be a cooler but I don't think I need it
Of course I'll call FM Monday morning but anyone have any idea why the same adjustable pushrod loosens up. My front exhaust pushrod upper jam nut has come loose twice now on me. I followed the videos to the T and used a drop of red locktite. Both times it was at about 10 or 12 miles. So I just readjusted it again at 4 turns and 2 flats per instructions. Going to go for a ride now again and see how it goes. Any input is much appreciated. Everyone have a great weekend and ride safe.
Kris
Of course I'll call FM Monday morning but anyone have any idea why the same adjustable pushrod loosens up. My front exhaust pushrod upper jam nut has come loose twice now on me. I followed the videos to the T and used a drop of red locktite. Both times it was at about 10 or 12 miles. So I just readjusted it again at 4 turns and 2 flats per instructions. Going to go for a ride now again and see how it goes. Any input is much appreciated. Everyone have a great weekend and ride safe.
Kris
1. Make sure the two wrenches you are using for tightening are not binding up on each other or on the opposing nut. You should have a 3/8 on the pushrod itself, and a 7/16 on the jam nut.
2. I think calling Fuel Moto would be the next step. But if it were me and I was determined to try one more thing, I would take the pushrod out completely. Clean up the threads of any preexisting red loctite and examine the threads. Make sure you don't have a thread missing or damaged. Also make sure you are not jamming up on the old loctite... If all is good, I would run the threaded part up into the body of the pushrod. It should all screw in smoothly. If you don't have any issues I would put it back in and start the adjustment process again. I know it's a pain to take off the bottom silver cup to get it out, but I think cleaning up the threads, and examining them can't hurt since you've been through this twice. Oh and if you are going to use red loctite again, wipe the oil off the part of the thread where your going to put the loctite so it's a clean surface.
1. Make sure the two wrenches you are using for tightening are not binding up on each other or on the opposing Yes sir, . You should have a 3/8 on the pushrod itself, and a 7/16 on the jam nut.
2. I think calling Fuel Moto would be the next step. But if it were me and I was determined to try one more thing, I would take the pushrod out completely. Clean up the threads of any preexisting red loctite and examine the threads. Make sure you don't have a thread missing or damaged. Also make sure you are not jamming up on the old loctite... If all is good, I would run the threaded part up into the body of the pushrod. It should all screw in smoothly. If you don't have any issues I would put it back in and start the adjustment process again. I know it's a pain to take off the bottom silver cup to get it out, but I think cleaning up the threads, and examining them can't hurt since you've been through this twice. Oh and if you are going to use red loctite again, wipe the oil off the part of the thread where your going to put the loctite so it's a clean surface.
Great advice, all of above is done, including removal and clean up. Going to take for a ride now and see what happens.
Kris
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