EVO All Evo Model Discussion

1986 FLT transformation

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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 07:28 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
That's got to be some kind of record. Five splices in a row. Home made crimps and those Walmart disconnectes are 6 month trouble makers. Proper wire twist, solder, two tight wraps of tape and shrink wrap. Then a little black RTV smoothed into each end of shrink shrink wrap. Do it right.
Hell yeah ive come this far I'm not gonna hack it now.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:07 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I didn't know that the FLT and FXR had the same frame. Or am I wrong?
The frames are not the same, but use the same principles in rubber-mounting the engine.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:29 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mark98012
Butt splices on the wiring is no big deal, the old connectors were crap and unless you intend to rewire the whole bike that is the way to go. Have fun.

Mark
Sorry Mark, butt splices ARE a big deal, nothing but future trouble. They are not a replacement for a properly soldered and shrink wrapped splice.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:54 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
The frames are not the same, but use the same principles in rubber-mounting the engine.
Sorry, got my answer...
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jan 26, 2017 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:58 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Rowansdad
i am building an 88 but possibly a 96 if my crank has any signs of wear on it. The frames rear sections are similar but I believe the frames are different.
I skipped over the 89"er and went to a mild. 96" build with 9.65:1 static comp and got 108 ft lbs of torque. Feels great...
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 10:15 PM
  #46  
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I know everyone will disagree with me, but a properly done crimp with quality connectors and quality tools is superior to solder in a high vibration application like a Harley. Or a boat.

http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 11:29 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Owtlaw
I know everyone will disagree with me, but a properly done crimp with quality connectors and quality tools is superior to solder in a high vibration application like a Harley. Or a boat.

http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html
Good article, even if it doesn't match my humble experience. I have had to fix way more corroded or broken crimps than soldered connections. Their logic that solder is unacceptable because of vibration doesn't hold because there isn't much weight to small gauge wiring and it is mostly secured anyway. Just making my point.

 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 07:44 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Beemervet
Good article, even if it doesn't match my humble experience. I have had to fix way more corroded or broken crimps than soldered connections. Their logic that solder is unacceptable because of vibration doesn't hold because there isn't much weight to small gauge wiring and it is mostly secured anyway. Just making my point.

Noted. In our application, I'd guess that a proper solder or a proper crimp are pretty competitive. Proper joints of each being pretty darn rare. A crimp made with a quality tool and good quality properly sized connectors works quite well. The marine waterproof connectors with the built in shrink wrap are nice. Kind of spendy, but how many do we really use?

Unfortunately, most of what we have to rewire consists of butt connectors from HF crimped with pliers, or cold soldered joints that look like a mud dauber nest. Both being held together with shrink wrap and a prayer.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 09:01 AM
  #49  
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Being in the automotive field most of my life, This is the best way I've found to connect wires that will not vibrate crack or anything. Never had an issue... Ever.......

1)Strip wire to be connected the length
2)Slip stranded ends together and wrap with a single stand of the same.
3)When soldering use a flux core solder.
4)Finish with shrink tube.

Easy Peasey.........


 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 09:03 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Owtlaw
Noted. In our application, I'd guess that a proper solder or a proper crimp are pretty competitive. Proper joints of each being pretty darn rare. A crimp made with a quality tool and good quality properly sized connectors works quite well. The marine waterproof connectors with the built in shrink wrap are nice. Kind of spendy, but how many do we really use?

Unfortunately, most of what we have to rewire consists of butt connectors from HF crimped with pliers, or cold soldered joints that look like a mud dauber nest. Both being held together with shrink wrap and a prayer.
wait heat shrink won't hold the wires together? Haha I've seen people that use wire nuts and my personal favorite is when you find two wires jammed under the same side of the butt connector cuz that is going to last.
 
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