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Hard starting when warm

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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 09:34 AM
  #21  
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I do have an o2 bung in the front pipe. Just would like to find a kit.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 01:27 AM
  #22  
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I'm at AZ Bike Week, Cave Creek AZ, and got a Dyno idle sniff test. Turns out, I'm running a little rich. Need to change my pilot jet to maybe 48, instead of 52. Should help my starting problem.

 

Last edited by Road Star; Apr 9, 2017 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:40 PM
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Leaving Scottsdale this morning, stopped for gas about an hour into the ride and the bike wouldn't start. Starter motor turns over and it's kicking out the gear, but something must have really gone wrong with the jackshaft, grinding and banging like a *****. So, since it wouldn't crank the motor over I bump-started it with the help of a few other guys at the gas station. Didn't turn it off till I got home, about six hours later. Geez - sure glad it wasn't something worse.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 11:23 PM
  #24  
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I looked at your specs. For a 98 that's a wholelotta BIG jetting.
I'm sure your dyno AF graph told you where you're at.
When I was running a CV on the Glide, anything bigger than a #45 slow and she'd get really twisted trying to start up hot.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 11:49 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by PeterV
I looked at your specs. For a 98 that's a wholelotta BIG jetting.
I'm sure your dyno AF graph told you where you're at.
When I was running a CV on the Glide, anything bigger than a #45 slow and she'd get really twisted trying to start up hot.
I didn't get a full Dyno, he just checked the idle, and adjusted the mixture, leaned it out a bit. He only charged me $25.
It was at 11.1 when he started, he leaned it out to 14.2.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterV
I looked at your specs. For a 98 that's a wholelotta BIG jetting.
I'm sure your dyno AF graph told you where you're at.
When I was running a CV on the Glide, anything bigger than a #45 slow and she'd get really twisted trying to start up hot.
What was your build at the time?
Wondering if I should I change the main jet when I change the slow jet?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 05:38 AM
  #27  
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You didn't happen to get a print out, did you?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 07:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
You didn't happen to get a print out, did you?
No, I did not.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 01:02 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Road Star
What was your build at the time?
Wondering if I should I change the main jet when I change the slow jet?
The Glide is a 95ci, .020 shaved heads, .030 cometic head gasket, cast flattops, Andrews TW26 cams, Kerker slip ons with 2" Mikuni baffles. The carb was a CV40, air screw 2 1/2 turns out, 45 slow, 190 main, needle on 2nd clip from top.
Then I got a Mik and a ProPipe. That's when the bike "really" woke up

#45 slow, #190 main is what I'd start out with. All the different carb components interact with each other. Fatten up the slow jet and leave a skinny main and you'd get great top end but crappy midrange. Go the other way and your mid would feel great but you'd never see 5500 in 5th gear. Ohh, and lets not forget about the needle..and the float level
Good luck
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 04:10 PM
  #30  
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Without Head work, I think you are too rich. Cracking the throttle while trying to start and it actually helps , tells you it's way to rich in the slow.... I know sometimes when compression is increased you actually could go down in jet size. It's all based on the squeeze..... Sorry to hear about the starter... Totally sucks man... Glad you made it home. I surprised that you didn't go with compression releases for that 10:1 98" build. It's more than you think..... And believe it or not with too much fuel it will crank even harder.......
 
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