Someone PLEASE help
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 836
Likes: 230
From: Deep South
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 718
Likes: 152
From: Ozarks
I'm leaning with the others towards push rod adjustment at this point. I'm still stuck on the gas being pushed out of the carb. This is very interesting. Can you video it cranking over ? Are hearing a blurb or a gurgle noise when cranking ?
Whatever the problem is, the key is that you are not able to the the ignition module to install correctly. You should be able to get the LED to turn off with a reasonable amount of adjustment room left on both sides of the slots. Until you get that done, none of the other stuff matters. Not the settings on the module, and it's certainly too soon to start thinking there are internal problems on the motor.
You've got to figure out why the module is not installing correctly.
Possible explanations, some of which are probably insane, but just thinking out loud:
- The previous ignition module (that you replaced) had a non-standard timing cup. I don't even know if there is such a thing, but that would explain what's happening. Take a pic of your timing cup and post it.
- Timing cup damaged/bent/something. Is the tit on the base of the cup cleanly aligned with the notch on the cam? Maybe go get a new one just because.
- You're not actually finding TDC on the front cylinder. FWIW, I do it using the "finger" method: Hold a finger over the spark plug hole as a helper turns the rear wheel (forward). If you feel pressure building, you know you're on the compression stroke. Then look through the site hole on the left side case to verify you're at the top of the stroke.
- Are you reading the wrong mark on the crankshaft? Are you using the straw to make sure the piston is absolutely at the top of it's travel?
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 697
Likes: 69
From: SA TX
I'm of the mind that the timing cup is not alighted properly. Like the man said if you are at tdc for sure and there isn't any mechanical misalignment of cam and crank, then the plate should go on at zero degrees - no adv or retard. The screws should be real close to the middle of the adjustment slots. That allows you to time the engine properly.
Once that is all done and you make the led go out, engine should run. If it spits gas out the carb. Then it could be the intake valve not closing all the way to misadjusted pushrod
Once that is all done and you make the led go out, engine should run. If it spits gas out the carb. Then it could be the intake valve not closing all the way to misadjusted pushrod
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
My $0.02: Forget all that for the moment.
Whatever the problem is, the key is that you are not able to the the ignition module to install correctly. You should be able to get the LED to turn off with a reasonable amount of adjustment room left on both sides of the slots. Until you get that done, none of the other stuff matters. Not the settings on the module, and it's certainly too soon to start thinking there
are internal problems on the motor.
You've got to figure out why the module is not installing correctly.
Possible explanations, some of which are probably insane, but just thinking out loud:
- The previous ignition module (that you replaced) had a non-standard timing cup. I don't even know if there is such a thing, but that would explain what's happening. Take a pic of your timing cup and post it.
- Timing cup damaged/bent/something. Is the tit on the base of the cup cleanly aligned with the notch on the cam? Maybe go get a new one just because.
- You're not actually finding TDC on the front cylinder. FWIW, I do it using the "finger" method: Hold a finger over the spark plug hole as a helper turns the rear wheel (forward). If you feel pressure building, you know you're on the compression stroke. Then look through the site hole on the left side case to verify you're at the top of the stroke.
- Are you reading the wrong mark on the crankshaft? Are you using the straw to make sure the piston is absolutely at the top of it's travel?
Whatever the problem is, the key is that you are not able to the the ignition module to install correctly. You should be able to get the LED to turn off with a reasonable amount of adjustment room left on both sides of the slots. Until you get that done, none of the other stuff matters. Not the settings on the module, and it's certainly too soon to start thinking there
are internal problems on the motor.
You've got to figure out why the module is not installing correctly.
Possible explanations, some of which are probably insane, but just thinking out loud:
- The previous ignition module (that you replaced) had a non-standard timing cup. I don't even know if there is such a thing, but that would explain what's happening. Take a pic of your timing cup and post it.
- Timing cup damaged/bent/something. Is the tit on the base of the cup cleanly aligned with the notch on the cam? Maybe go get a new one just because.
- You're not actually finding TDC on the front cylinder. FWIW, I do it using the "finger" method: Hold a finger over the spark plug hole as a helper turns the rear wheel (forward). If you feel pressure building, you know you're on the compression stroke. Then look through the site hole on the left side case to verify you're at the top of the stroke.
- Are you reading the wrong mark on the crankshaft? Are you using the straw to make sure the piston is absolutely at the top of it's travel?
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
yes. That is what I went off of was the #1 mark. Tried like you said and lined it up where I thought compression stroke was then went around 1 more revolution and still didn't work. I'm convinced the ignition is junk. Find out in about a week I guess when I receive a new one. Almost thought about buying a different brand just cause I think I could get a different one quicker. But everything else I see I have to mess with the advance weights I think??
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yes. That is what I went off of was the #1 mark. Tried like you said and lined it up where I thought compression stroke was then went around 1 more revolution and still didn't work. I'm convinced the ignition is junk. Find out in about a week I guess when I receive a new one. Almost thought about buying a different brand just cause I think I could get a different one quicker. But everything else I see I have to mess with the advance weights I think??
You're joking about the advance weights, right? There are any number of electronic ignitions available (S&S, Crane, Ultima, etc.)
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 137
Likes: 5
From: il
I have a bit more time today, hope this helps. Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow, that's what makes a gas engine run. Suck to pull gas air mix into combustion chamber, intake valve open piston on down stroke. Squeeze the piston go's up the valves both close and the gas air mix are compressed. Bang a spark is sent to the combustion chamber that ingnites the gas air mix and sends the piston down. Blow the exhast valve opens and the piston travels up to push the burnt gas air mix out the pipe. after rereading this post I think the o.p. said this bike was not runnin when bought (could be wrong) the installe of the hall effect ing. is just the last thing o.p. worked on and if not workin would only stop the Bang the gas air mix blowing out the carb says the intake valve is open on compression stroke the pushrods are only one thing that could cause that, bent or burnt valve or lifter block worn and lifter not following the cam, even a brokin valvespring. and if you don't have the gas air mix compressed it don't matter if or when the Bang happens it may not explode. I would check compression to make sure the valves are openin and closing the way their suspust ta. hope this helps