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Help - lowering rear end/closing rear wheel and rear fender gap
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Also yes, reducing the spring preload will lower the bike when you sit on it.... it will also have less ability to stop hitting 'the hard stop' when you hit a bump.
I installed 12" Progressive 412HD on my bike about 60k miles ago.. replaced them last year... with the same make/model.
12" is only .5" shorter, but it did lower the back end a little, and the stiffer 412HD means I don't bottom out.
Yes, the ride is considerable stiffer.. .I like it. I don't carve corners like a mad-man, but I do scrape my pegs first.
Fastest way is with some Burley Slammers.
But start saving for when your tired of that look/ride and THEN spend the money for a hi end shock. Orrrrrr say **** it and go for the Rocket Bobs pintail or voodoo fender.
An alternative option if you plan on doing custom wheels is to change the rear wheel size.
My 05 Night train had a stock 16 inch wheel, and when I ordered new wheels I did an 18inch on the rear. stuffed the rear tire up in that rear fender more and looked awesome.
I know you didn't ask about whether or not to lower it, but after I messed around with my softail I wouldn't do it again. ride is harsh, hurts on big bumps, handles ****, reduces lean in corners, jiffy stand needs replaced ect ect.
Looking to lower my back end of my 2013 Street Bob. Recommendations on shocks to put on? I have read a lot about ohlins, but gauging for possible cheaper but still great quality brands.
I realized that I have progressive shocks on now, not sure which ones, but still the goal is to close the gap between my wheel and rear fender. My Dad and I think that by adjusting the shocks with a Spanner wrench that we can close that a little bit more. Is this true? Or are there other means of doing this?
Help
Adjusting the preload on your progressive shocks won't change your ride height, only the relative stiffness. The bike will sit a bit lower under the weight of a rider but in doing this you will sacrifice performance. To lower your bike, you'll either need shorter shocks or Lowering blocks.
Here is a LINK to a report we did on Rear suspension. We tested various shocks and suspension components with overall comfort, performance, and ride quality as reference points.
Ultimately, we decided on carrying the Pro-Action and Twin-Adjustables, respectively.
There were a few shocks we tested that provided a small incremental improvement in ride quality, but the cost of those shocks are north of $1,000.00, many in the $1500-$2000 range. We did not find small improvement (10-15 points) worth the 1.5 - 3.5 times the price difference.
Additionally, here is a LINK to our Rear Shocks as well as a LINK to our Lowering kits.
You can even get the shocks we carry in shorter than OEM lengths while still maintaining very impressive suspension travel.
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