Originally Posted by T^2

Never had a Shoei. My previous was an Arai. Every FF helmet I've owned had some amount of wind noise. Current helmet is a Nolan N87. Like it just as much as my last Arai, and it was less than half the price. I suspect it has some wind noise, but I wear ear plugs so I don't know how much nor does it bother me (can't hear it with the plugs in). I can tell you this, if you got a nice sounding exhaust, there is a good possibility that the FF will act as an echo chamber. I put the soft silicon ear plugs in once or twice where I didn't get a good seal. The echo chamber with the pipes was too much. Had to pull over and deal with it. Once the seal was established, all was good.

Compromises... Want good sounding pipes? Might need to make compromises/adjustments to accommodate them/make them livable. I like my V&H Side Shots. Not exactly the quietest set of pipes. I've adjusted to make them work (again ear plugs). The only downside - you can't really hear how your bike sounds while riding with the ear plugs in. Then again, you can't really hear how it really sounds even without ear plugs. Sound perception is different from the saddle. Only time I've heard my bike is when my mechanic has taken it for test rides. Damn if it didn't sound good. I don't really need to hear it while I ride. I know it's making some fine music even if I can't hear it.

Originally Posted by T^2

Can't imagine not wearing earplugs. Even with whisper quiet exhaust they are still needed (at least in my book) due to wind noise (long term exposure = bad). Especially true when wearing a half helmet. Still true with most FF helmets. Trick is - is getting ear plugs that are comfortable. Ultra-Soft Silicon ear plugs from CVS work for me. I can wear them all day and not notice them. Just the right amount of attenuation.

Ear plugs certainly make nice sounding pipes/slip-ons doable. I'd skip going back to stock exhaust, put the Rush SO's back on, and put the ear plugs in. Problem solved.

Originally Posted by Wizardofaus

Originally Posted by Bowhunter8607

I installed them in my stock slip-ons about a month after purchasing the bike so they were brand new pipes. I think the stock slip-ons are pretty thin and the vibrations just wore at them and caused them to crack. I have thought about buying another set of TTI's for the Straight Shots but have hesitations due to thinking I would have to drill into them as well. If they are a direct fit into the existing threaded fastener hole then I may just have to buy another set because I do feel the noticeable reduction of torque without them. I just have questions on how they would thread into the hole?

I had trouble getting the TTI's in the holes I drilled because of the length of the TTI bolts not allowing the TTI's to be able to stand straight up inside the pipe while installing them.

Maybe part of the cause of the pipes cracking is, due to not being able to stand them up straight while installing them, I drilled holes that were a bit larger diameter than the TTI bolts to get them to fit in, so they had a little bit of wiggle room when not tight. This wiggle room may have caused them to slightly wiggle when tight due to the vibrations and eventually caused the pipes to crack at the holes. You may not be implying the install process had anything to do with the failure of the slip-ons but I am willing to bet that it had everything to do with it.

At first I tried to drill holes that the TTI bolts fit snugly in and when trying to install them I could not get them in the hole due to not having enough room to stand them up straight at 90* inside the pipe to align them perfectly to the holes and slide them into the more snug holes. Had I trimmed the bolt I probably could have fit them in the smaller, more snug holes but would not have had enough bolt sticking through the pipe to center the TTI's in the slip-ons. I had to slip them in the pipe at an angle while trying to finagle with them for a bit to get them to slide into the slightly larger holes I drilled. Any suggestions here? I wish I had pictures to illustrate what I am trying to describe but I don't so I hope you can picture what I am saying here.

Here's a pic of the broken pipe.

Originally Posted by DK Custom Products

Thanks for that explanation.

For the Straight Shots, there is a single fastener that keeps the baffle in. After removing it you would need to enlarge the hole just a bit to allow the 5/16 thread of the tti to pass thru. They would install in the same manner as on your SE mufflers... Jam nut within the inner wall and lock nut on the outside.

If you would like to leave the baffles intact, you could go with the 118 and see excellent results...
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/thun...dk-tti-118.htm

However, most prefer to remove the baffles for an even better over all result. This would require the larger 158 inserts...
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/thun...dk-tti-158.htm

The great thing about installing the TTI in the straight shots is that the mod is completely reversible and the baffles can be re-installed if the need ever arises.

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions at all.

Dwayne

6622528828

Originally Posted by DK Custom

Been away on a long weekend...just saw the latest posts here.

A few thoughts-
Very rarely does the installation of TTI's result in a crack in the body. It does happen, but only once in every couple of thousand pipes. Usually it is when the hole is larger than it needs to be for the stud to fit thru.