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Never had a Shoei. My previous was an Arai. Every FF helmet I've owned had some amount of wind noise. Current helmet is a Nolan N87 ...
I never thought I'd buy Shoei either. When I was looking for a FF, I went to the motorcycle store and asked for the quietest helmet. The gal said: hands down Shoei Quest, if it fits your head shape.
I tried it... never looked back.
Only downside is it tends to fog up if you breathe heavily. So don't have raunchy sex while wearing a Shoei Qwest.
The stud is 5/16" and the hole should be 3/8". That is enough to get it worked into the hole, even up to a 45* angle.
It can be tight sometimes, but has always worked for me.
Kevin
Thanks for the info. I guess the size of the hole was not the issue because I drilled a 5/16" hole and it still cracked. Here is a pic with the 5/16" drill bit in the hole I drilled.
The 3/8" bit doesn't fit and I thought it would be too large of a hole. I guess the stock slip-on's are just too thin to hold up to the vibrations with the TTI's installed because they are in no way compromised by rust. With the given information I am not quite sure why they cracked now.
I patched up the cracked hole with a washer and JB Weld.
And the rear pipe TTI relocated after the first crack and repair.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; Nov 1, 2017 at 08:27 PM.
Thanks for the info. I guess the size of the hole was not the issue because I drilled a 5/16" hole and it still cracked. Here is a pic with the 5/16" drill bit in the hole I drilled.
The 3/8" bit doesn't fit and I thought it would be too large of a hole. I guess the stock slip-on's are just too thin to hold up to the vibrations with the TTI's installed because they are in no way compromised by rust. With the given information I am not quite sure why they cracked now.
I patched up the cracked hole with a washer and JB Weld.
And the rear pipe TTI relocated after the first crack and repair.
Man, I'm sorry for your bad luck. Not sure why what happened, happened. I wish we did know.
I know I've always used a 3/8" hole, and that is what the instructions say to use.
I do see how using a 5/16" would make it difficult to install...but not sure that would cause fatigue and resulting cracking....unless the metal got bent when working the stud in???? Or maybe got bent by over-tightening it, resulting in the body of the slip-on getting flattened???
I do know that it is not because the factory pipes are too thin. We have hundreds of Customers running these in their stock pipes with no issues. I have run them in two different bikes w/ stock pipes myself.
Man, I'm sorry for your bad luck. Not sure why what happened, happened. I wish we did know.
I know I've always used a 3/8" hole, and that is what the instructions say to use.
I do see how using a 5/16" would make it difficult to install...but not sure that would cause fatigue and resulting cracking....unless the metal got bent when working the stud in???? Or maybe got bent by over-tightening it, resulting in the body of the slip-on getting flattened???
I do know that it is not because the factory pipes are too thin. We have hundreds of Customers running these in their stock pipes with no issues. I have run them in two different bikes w/ stock pipes myself.
Kevin
Maybe over-tightening was the issue because I did tighten them down quite a bit after I noticed they would turn out of position if I only snugged them down. I couldn't get them to stay in position otherwise. I may try them again in the Straight Shots but will try to figure out a way to keep them in position without having to torque them down so tight.
Maybe over-tightening was the issue because I did tighten them down quite a bit after I noticed they would turn out of position if I only snugged them down. I couldn't get them to stay in position otherwise. I may try them again in the Straight Shots but will try to figure out a way to keep them in position without having to torque them down so tight.
You do need to tighten them down enough so they will not turn, but once they are that tight, then it does not need to be any tighter.
Since self locking nuts are included with the TTI's, once they are tight enough that you cannot move (turn) them with the tool you are using to hold them in place during install, they will stay that tight.
I went to sleep last night thinking about your situation. I decided this weekend I will be be drilling a 5/16" hole in a stock slip-on and then try to install a TTI and see what happens.
You do need to tighten them down enough so they will not turn, but once they are that tight, then it does not need to be any tighter.
Since self locking nuts are included with the TTI's, once they are tight enough that you cannot move (turn) them with the tool you are using to hold them in place during install, they will stay that tight.
I went to sleep last night thinking about your situation. I decided this weekend I will be be drilling a 5/16" hole in a stock slip-on and then try to install a TTI and see what happens.
Kevin
The first go round I tightened them until I couldn't turn them as you stated but a few miles later the front TTI turned on it's own with the vibrations so that's when I torqued them down tighter and they stayed in place until the pipes cracked. Same thing happened when I relocated the front TTI when the pipe cracked. So I tightened it up again. Each one lasted about 1000 miles before the pipes broke. Let me know if you get the same results with the 5/16" holes. Maybe I needed to drill them with the 3/8" bit to avoid the breakage.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; Nov 2, 2017 at 06:59 PM.
My FF has pinlock visor insert and it is brilliant. No more steamed up visor.
Yep. I'm wearing the Shoei GT Air with the pinlock visor... 3rd Shoei I've owned and most expensive, but quiet, ventilation that works, fog-free, and sweet internal flip-down shade. I'm adding a Quest to the rack when they go on sale this winter to match my bike and have a spare for my wife.
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