I have a 2011 FLSTC. I'll try to give as much information as possible.

The bike has been in storage for 27 months while I was out of the country.

Now I'm back and trying to get it running. There wasn't a drop of any lubricant on the floor after all that time. Got a new battery (lithium) and installed it (metal to metal contact everywhere and tight screws), then pulled the spark plug wires. I wanted to get some oil through the system before firing it up. Turned the bike to on, pulled the clutch in and hit the start button. It had a tough time turning over. It did turn over once or twice.

I turned off the bike's key and the run button to off and double checked all the connections. I removed both +&-. Made sure there wasn't any corrosion anywhere and went to put it back together. Positive first and then when I put the negative cable in place - the bike started cranking on it's own. Again, no key in the ignition, run button in the off position and I wasn't anywhere near the start button. It would turn over a couple of times and then make a really rapid clicking noise and then go to cranking again. I pulled the cable off ASAP. It's done that every time that I've tried installing the battery since.

I bought the bike used 4 or 5 years ago. It had a Dynojet Tuner (basically an ECU piggyback). A load equalizer for the LED lights - blinkers, taillights. Two battery tender pigtails (I don't know why). So I pulled all that stuff off. Just wanted to eliminate as many variables as possible. The bike still cranks when the leads touch the battery.

So I figured it was a starter relay, bought a couple only to find out that my bike doesn't have a starter relay. Parts Catalog says it does - but it doesn't. Okay. Maybe it's the Ignition switch shorting? Got one of those and installed it. Its the same thing! No key and it'll crank as soon as the negative lead touches the post (with a little arc as well).

After reading around the forums, I found out that the starter relay is now in the BCM - body control module, along with some other important stuff. I'm out of ideas. Does it sound like a BCM problem? Here's my problem - I don't think they make new BCMs (HD or aftermarket) so I'd be buying used off eBay.

Does anyone have any ideas? What approach would you take to get to the root cause? I know nothing about this module, but it says it has to be programmed by the dealership. Is there a way to ride the bike to the dealership to get it programmed? Renting a trailer is just another expense I can't really afford.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Stumped.

 

Get rid of the lithium battery and install an OEM or equal AGM battery with the correct CCA (or borrow one from one of your other bikes) that has been fully charged prior to installation.

 

I know your frustration... First off... stop guessing!!!

I would suggest you use a systematic, diagnostic approach to finding the issue, versus guessing what it could be, and then throwing parts at it..... That gets expensive quick, and you are lucky if the first guess fixes the problem.

Take a deep breath, relax, and get ready to do some electrical diagnosis..



Have you checked for codes? A code could point you in the right direction...

I would also use a regular battery like was in it when it worked before.. Point being, I always verify I have a good, solid 12V source before starting to diagnose an electrical issue.

Also, you mentioned you removed a piggy back tuner and other things to eliminate variables. At some point you may need to check your work. Especially the connectors you removed and reattached to the ECM. You may need to check them for a good connection or damage (like bent pins, loose pins, or pins that backed out/broke) when you were manipulating them. If you had the runaway starter condition before you removed those things, you can probably put "rechecking your work" on the back burner.

I wouldn't just guess it's the BCM. I would check the starter circuit and specifically the BCM, before spending any money..

You'll need to use a systematic approach to trace the starter circuit between the battery and the starter, and check for issues.

You can get just the wiring diagrams on the Harley Service Information Portal.. And get real familiar with a multi-meter

Or...

You can get a 2011 Softail Electrical Diagnostic Manual... It will show all circuits, and give you steps to trouble shoot issues with flow charts.... And you'll still need to get real familiar with a multi-meter.

I am not electrically gifted, but I have been able to get through any electrical issues I have encountered between the wiring diagrams and trouble shooting flow charts in the Electrical Diagnostic Manual.. And of course, a multi-meter..

The manual you need is part #99498-11. Some will have "-11A", which is just the updated version.

They are no longer available from the MoCo, but you can get good condition, used versions on eBay for like $50. They were probably around $100- $149 when new. The newer model manuals are up to $193.

IMHO, when problems like yours pop up, they are worth their weight in gold...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32691891655...MaAnv-EALw_wcB


Good luck with your repair and keep us posted on your progress...

More suggestions will be offered as you post your diagnostic trail...


PS-
If you should add a BCM to your bike that is new or used, since it's not configured for your bike, you will need a dealer with his Digital Tec II computer to initialize the BCM to your bike, ECM, Speedo, etc. before the bike will run..

If you have a friend, or an independent Harley Shop, that has one of the full service diagnostic tools like the TechnoResearch Centurion Pro (about $1800), it will do almost anything a dealer can do.. I have 4 bikes and bought one of the Centurion Pro tools so I would not need to go to a dealer ... ever again..

 

Thanks. For all of that. I was just about at my wits end. I get the mechanical stuff. The electrical end just plain stumps me. And yeah, I did need to just stop and take a breath.

I got one of those manuals you suggested. Thanks for the part number, by the way. I appreciate it. Didn't know they made one of those types of manuals. I have the shop manual and the parts catalog.

Even though I can feel my anxiety rise just thinking about it - I'm about to crack the book open and start.

Again, thank you for the input. I'll get back on here when I have some results to post.

 

You 2011 has the first generation BCM on a Harley. And there has been a few threads that a bad BCM will definitely do that.

First off, is it possible you put that lighter and smaller lithium battery in reversed..

One would think it's protected against that but there has been threads on here of pople doing that and it causes severe damage.

Also, if that lithium battery is not fully charged, and warm by what some say, they don't crank properly.

My guess is since you had plugs out and it did crank a little, as easy as it is to crank with plugs out, that battery was in correctly but way low on AMPs.

Hopefully, that didn't damage the BMC since low voltage increases AMP draw. Usually, when that happens, there aren't enough AMPs in a discharged battery to hurt.

However BCM electronics doesn't take much to damage it with low voltage. Something kills them.

And that used BCM is probably going to need programming unless an exact match. A new one when they were available had to be programmed.

I would spend couple hundred on a regular gel cell AGM battery. Charge it. Even then, and before doing anything, jack the rear wheel and put it in 4th gear and see how easy it is to turn over.

Oil is still on and in the bearings. If it turns over freely, your good.

You do need to syphon all the old fuel out. Add fresh. That trapped between fuel pump to the injectors is totally sealed and will burn probably.

If all seems good, it cranks and doesn't fire, be patient. It may need to get that in the line thru. If it does, it may help to either use starter fluid or a gasoline mist into throttle body.

Just a mist and very little. Do that Outside. It will have oil pressure up if that happens before it starts.

Don't let a empty oil bag fool you either on a TC Softails. Mine would drain down in 6 months.

I just cruse around at low rpm. Takes a while to normalize since as it recovers , some, it's still pumping out a little less.

Rest assured, it's getting more lubrication like that with the crank sump full then it needs.

 

Started reading the Electrical Diagnostics Manual. Wow. I haven't been this lost since I was in school. Trouble is, all the diagnostics start with a battery connected. I did find out how interconnected all the electricals are on these bikes though. It's too bad that they didn't put a rechargeable battery in the Odometer. That seems to be quite a useful diagnostic tool - that is inaccessible with no battery attached. Also, there's a great way to find out if you have a bad BCM or not. Anyway, I'm still working through this thing. Thought I'd share some frustration points/hilarity.

 

Disconnect the starter. Then troubleshoot.
But, as mentioned, try another battery first. Will the battery you pulled off hold a charge?

 

Its a brand new battery. I'm going to disconnect the starter and see what that does. Thing is with inputs - they seem pretty obvious once someone says it. Before that...didn't occur to me.

 

Disconnect the 12v control wire on your starter solenoid. It could be as simple as an arc'd closed starter solenoid. If the bike continues to crank then you know it's the solenoid. If it doesn't, then you know it's further up on the control circuit such as BCM.

 

chopper man - Thanks! Down South too. I did that. Removed the starter from the equation and was able to get the DTCs. There were a bunch of them, all pointing to the BCM and then it even gave me the Part Number to replace. It's out of production and I can't find anything from CustomChrome or the like - but it's available used on eBay. I see the starter's high output is shorted (the shaft is locked out), but is it normal to see all these lights and ACC codes? Here are the DTCs: B2113 ACC output shorted low

B2122 Starter output shorted high

B2136 Low beam output open

B2138 Low beam output shorted low

B2141 Left front turn signal output open

B2146 Right front turn signal output open

B2151 Left rear turn signal output open

B2153 Left rear turn signal output shorted low

B2154 Left rear turn signal output overloaded

B2156 Right rear turn signal output open

B2158 Right rear turn signal output shorted low

B2159 Right rear turn signal output overloaded

B2161 Brake lamp output open

B2166 - ? not listed

B2169 Running lights output overloaded

Thanks for all your help guys. Like I said before all the inputs you gave sound obvious but aren't until someone says it. Lesson learned.

I guess I'll be looking for the BCM on eBay.