When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You coming out of the closet bud?? Haha just joking
haha... good one...lol. it was supposed to say "fenderless". those letters are right next to each other or it was auto correct, although i have to admit there were some drinks involved last night that may have effected my posting ability
After two days of grinding I finally got the rear cut the way I wanted it. All I need to do is finish mounting the tail lights and it'll be ready for paint.
Now the front fender !! Here is a picture of what I got. Klock Werks Wraper. The fender is thick as hell, great quality.
I'm going to cut out the section right above where the two mounting holes are on the fender now and drill my own. I'm gonna take off just enough material to get rid of the holes that the fender came with. I checked and I will still have enough room to play with in order to get the correct mounting height I want.
Here's what I need help with. I figured there is a trick to marking the fender while its mocked on the tire. I hope someone can fill me in.
I know about strapping a piece of 1/2 rubber fuel hose (like professor mentioned earlier) to the tire. Now, once I do that its tough to get in there and mark where I should drill the holes.
So far the only fabricating I've done is cutting my rear fenders Lolol. That was a task in itself.
I'm thiniing there are a lot of tricks out there that I don't know about which would make a job like this really easy.
Professor, my front wheel is not the stocker. It's thst CVO breakout wheel that's in my signature pic.
I still have the stock front fender. I was tossing around the idea of making a template of the hole pattern from the stock front fender and somehow use that to mark the new holes while the fender is mocked on the wheel. Not sure exactly how I'm gonna pull that off though.
I saw a pic of the backside of the rocker fork sliders.....the fender mounting holes are indeed offset to the rear ......equally on both sides correct ?
I assume your bike is supported level and the front wheel is off the ground ....ready to be removed ? ( for slider measurements )
you need the center of the slider to the center of the fender mounting holes dimension . this will be your offset dimension . your axle is dead center of your sliders .
your new fender : measure the width of the mounting surface and divide by 2 ......this will be the center of your fender mount . lightly scribe a parallel line down the center of the mounting surface ....use a small square placed on the bottom flat portion of your fender mounting flange to do so .
from that lightly scribed center line....scribe your offset dimension line parallel to that , using the small square once again . follow ?
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.