**** dude !! Those carbs look so complicated to me.

I've never dealt with carbs so I don't know much about them. There are so many parts that to me it seems like there is so much that could go wrong.

Subscribing to this one, maybe I can learn a thing or two

 

It is not supposed to be a servisable part so it is not shown on the diagram.

It is underneath toward the back between the body and the intake.
You can feel it,,,,,,,,,If your bike is a female it is in the area that makes her say yes, yes, if your bike is a male then it is the area that the doctor presses and ask you to cough.

In the picture it is to the left, next to the intake manifold. (Far left)
If the bike has never been re-jetted the plug will cover this screw.
This is a good way to see if anyone has done anything to the carb before you.





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Guess that's why I didn't find it - Thanks again. I have a cracked CV I kept for parts, gonna pull it down and check it out. THANKS

 

Yikes..seem to have opened the proverbial can o worms here. Bike is stock as far as the carb goes. I did put some American Custom (I think that was the name..vendor on here) slip ons with the mid level baffle on. Didn't think I would need carb changes with just slip ons. Could this effect choke use?

 

Yes, free flowing mufflers, or air cleaner flow more air flow. This changes the air to fuel ratio, leans it out even more.
If this is your only symptom, if it is not running hot, coughing out the carb I would not worry about it.

 

Yep, idle loop.. I use the choke cause I am lazy

 

No other symptoms...I don't like the word "lean" in conjunction with my engine though....

 

Quick hijack ... I really like the video in your signature. Hijack over, please continue on the carb discussion.

 

Well fuel mixture is a bell curve with ideal being at the top at 14.6-.7 to one.
however this is for optimum power.
We all know that unburned fuel helps cool the motor and that any air cooled motors do not handle heat very well.
I tune for gas mileage, and for power, but pay more attention to the mpg. so I tune on the lean side. However I pay a lot of attention to any to lean signs, I keep a real close eye on my temperature and if I get any coughing out the carb or ping, I immediately adjust the idle adjustment screw.
The Idle circut flows all the time so increasing the flow by screwing out the screw helps in the entire power range to a certain point.
That is why we tune the idle circuit first.
It is pretty easy to drill out the plug covering the screw and if you ever take off the carb this should be done.
Also pull off the bottom take note of the jets inside, once the plug is removed it is easy to re-jet without pulling the carb, just pull off the bottom while on the bike and change the jet, the small jet is the idle jet.
I adjust the screw at least two times a year, I keep track of my gas mileage, and know how the bike has been running and adjust it for the heaver thick cold air, and the same for in the spring.
I try to get 45 mpg around home, 50, 55 on the road.
If you drill out the plug, first thing you do is gently screw in the jet to see where the start point is, gently you do not want to damage the jet or seat.
Then you go from there, it should be one and a half to two turns out.
You screw it in and the bike should start dropping in rpms, then screw it out until the same thing happens, counting the turns, then you split the difference.
Mark it down for future reference and adjust as you feel necessary.

 

Thanks If you have ever ridden in Florida you know that we get some rain.