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FP3 tuning???

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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by sincitychoppa
I have run over a tank on the auto tune and I am unable to get any more cells to populate Green. I have attached a pic, does this look normal? When can I be satisfied to upload the tune as my bike runs like crap in AUTOTUNE mode, and really has not run well since I put my Short Shots on.
As other have said - no need to be alarmed.
The bike will run less than optimal in AutoTune, it's the same way with the SEPST SmartTune.
My understanding is that in AutoTune, the tuner loads the bike's "defaults" from the factory in order to compute the changes - so if you've changed pipes and A/C, the bike will run like crap...

Your AutoTune fill looks like it's more full than I ever got, and I ran it three or four times.
The thing about AutoTune is that it seems to only help if you run it once or twice.
Any more than that and you're just making small changes to cells that may have already been changed before.
ie; the conditions on each run are probably more different than alike.

I found the first suggested map for my bike (Slim, S&S Super free-flow A/C, V&H BBS's) was probably the best of them all.
I ran a few Autotune passes just for the hell of it, and didn't really see much improvement over the first map, which was sensational.
So even after a few AutoTune runs (just to try it, to be honest) I just went back to that first map and left it alone ever since.
I just can't imagine the feel of the bike improving any more over what I have now...

My oil temps dropped significantly, decel pop was completely eliminated, more power all around, my MPG returned to a more respectable 40+ (after that garbage dealer-installed Stage 1 download) and it even sounded better.

The FP3 was hands down some of the best $$ I spent on this bike so far...
 
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 05:10 PM
  #12  
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I agree with jam 100%. flash what you have and if you want after its flashed upload it to V&H they will tweek it for you and you should be good to go....swifty
 
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 05:20 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by sincitychoppa
Thanks for all the answers guys. I will flash and keep tuning until I can fill as many cells to Green as possible. I have tried the base maps in their list, but it does not list Short Shots for a breakout, so I had to select the closest option Big Radius pipes with baffle. This is what customer service told me to do at Vance and hines, then run Autotune off of that map as a baseline.

I will run another tank or so through it with different types of riding and see how it all ends up.

The main thing that concerns me is that the temps is much higher, 270-300 while using the autotune and while in the baseline Big Radius map they supply it is around 240-260. The way it runs also is unpredictable as it can run strong to weak, very inconsistent. I hope to get it running consistently strong and cool, I don't want to be forced to upgrade to a 120r by blowing up my new 103 )
I just looked at my FP3 map look up,,,, It DOES show v&H short shots for a softtail... you should be using that map!!!!! not one for big radius!! The map for short shot is a map made from dyno it should be perfect for your break out as is,,,,,,,,, with out an auto tune
 
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ILMFBL
I just think that they can do that a lot easier and more effectively on a dyno than we can in real life
This and this alone! I know to most of us, there's a bit of satisfaction from tinkering with auto-tune and all the options, but if budget is not a factor (and I understand it can be), there really truly is no better option than getting a custom map done on a dyno...period! Anything else is simply chasing second place!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 05softailnc
You will never get a "full" map. V&H says it will be "football" shaped. I have probably run over 800 miles on autotune and it looks pretty good, but really did not change a whole lot after 300 or so. Best policy is to flash the map (it does NOT make real time adjustments while in autotune, so you are actually still running the previous baseline map), then ride a little to see what you think. Then go back to autotune and select the autotune map you just flashed as your starting map. If you do not do this part, you will just keep doing the same adjustments over again.

You can call V&H and give them some info on your bike; they will pull up your map and tweak it for you based on their experience vs. your bike setup. I have not done that yet.

Oh yeah, the bike runs great. Be sure to check out the throttle lag setting. It makes a huge difference in response, especially when going into passing mode.
I will do that, GREAT ADVISE. The throttle lag is terrible. I am used to riding crotch rockets so I thought the lack of throttle response was due to it being a Vtwin. I was looking for the adjustment in the settings but did not want to mess anything up. What do I do to the "Throttle Lag Setting" to make it more snappy?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 04:43 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sincitychoppa
I will do that, GREAT ADVISE. The throttle lag is terrible. I am used to riding crotch rockets so I thought the lack of throttle response was due to it being a Vtwin. I was looking for the adjustment in the settings but did not want to mess anything up. What do I do to the "Throttle Lag Setting" to make it more snappy?
There are 5 presets for this setting. I have mine set on "moderate" which works fine for me. You can go "aggressive" or "race 1:1" for even quicker response. You can also do adjustments directly to the table, but that takes more knowledge than I have.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 05softailnc
There are 5 presets for this setting. I have mine set on "moderate" which works fine for me. You can go "aggressive" or "race 1:1" for even quicker response. You can also do adjustments directly to the table, but that takes more knowledge than I have.
How do you get to the "aggressive" and "race 1:1" setting? I have pretty thoroughly gone though the settings and haven't run across that yet. That sounds like a cool setting.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by sincitychoppa
How do you get to the "aggressive" and "race 1:1" setting? I have pretty thoroughly gone though the settings and haven't run across that yet. That sounds like a cool setting.
I'm assuming '05's bike is throttle by wire. Maybe that's where all of tose settings come from? I could be wrong; I haven't seen them either...
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 10:36 PM
  #19  
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When I got my FP3 I was anticipating auto tune being the main feature of using it. To optimize must need Autotune. But when I contacted V&H they told me not to auto tune if I was installing V&H pipes.

So it seems like I bought the FP3 to just upload the map they say to use. Bike runs good but have not really ridden it a whole lot yet.

Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2015 | 02:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tripleb1911
When I got my FP3 I was anticipating auto tune being the main feature of using it. To optimize must need Autotune. But when I contacted V&H they told me not to auto tune if I was installing V&H pipes.

So it seems like I bought the FP3 to just upload the map they say to use. Bike runs good but have not really ridden it a whole lot yet.

Good luck!
When using the V&H baseline map that they recommend my bike runs very week and bogs down low. It also has a pathetic top end.I am used to more power from my old 1 liter crotch rockets, but I have run a few other tunes on the V&H that run MUCH stronger, but still not perfect.
 
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