As other have said - no need to be alarmed.
The bike will run less than optimal in AutoTune, it's the same way with the SEPST SmartTune.
My understanding is that in AutoTune, the tuner loads the bike's "defaults" from the factory in order to compute the changes - so if you've changed pipes and A/C, the bike will run like crap...

Your AutoTune fill looks like it's more full than I ever got, and I ran it three or four times.
The thing about AutoTune is that it seems to only help if you run it once or twice.
Any more than that and you're just making small changes to cells that may have already been changed before.
ie; the conditions on each run are probably more different than alike.

I found the first suggested map for my bike (Slim, S&S Super free-flow A/C, V&H BBS's) was probably the best of them all.
I ran a few Autotune passes just for the hell of it, and didn't really see much improvement over the first map, which was sensational.
So even after a few AutoTune runs (just to try it, to be honest) I just went back to that first map and left it alone ever since.
I just can't imagine the feel of the bike improving any more over what I have now...

My oil temps dropped significantly, decel pop was completely eliminated, more power all around, my MPG returned to a more respectable 40+ (after that garbage dealer-installed Stage 1 download) and it even sounded better.

The FP3 was hands down some of the best $$ I spent on this bike so far...

 

I agree with jam 100%. flash what you have and if you want after its flashed upload it to V&H they will tweek it for you and you should be good to go....swifty

 

I just looked at my FP3 map look up,,,, It DOES show v&H short shots for a softtail... you should be using that map!!!!! not one for big radius!! The map for short shot is a map made from dyno it should be perfect for your break out as is,,,,,,,,, with out an auto tune

 

This and this alone! I know to most of us, there's a bit of satisfaction from tinkering with auto-tune and all the options, but if budget is not a factor (and I understand it can be), there really truly is no better option than getting a custom map done on a dyno...period! Anything else is simply chasing second place!

 

I will do that, GREAT ADVISE. The throttle lag is terrible. I am used to riding crotch rockets so I thought the lack of throttle response was due to it being a Vtwin. I was looking for the adjustment in the settings but did not want to mess anything up. What do I do to the "Throttle Lag Setting" to make it more snappy?

 

There are 5 presets for this setting. I have mine set on "moderate" which works fine for me. You can go "aggressive" or "race 1:1" for even quicker response. You can also do adjustments directly to the table, but that takes more knowledge than I have.

 

How do you get to the "aggressive" and "race 1:1" setting? I have pretty thoroughly gone though the settings and haven't run across that yet. That sounds like a cool setting.

 

I'm assuming '05's bike is throttle by wire. Maybe that's where all of tose settings come from? I could be wrong; I haven't seen them either...

 

When I got my FP3 I was anticipating auto tune being the main feature of using it. To optimize must need Autotune. But when I contacted V&H they told me not to auto tune if I was installing V&H pipes.

So it seems like I bought the FP3 to just upload the map they say to use. Bike runs good but have not really ridden it a whole lot yet.

Good luck!

 

When using the V&H baseline map that they recommend my bike runs very week and bogs down low. It also has a pathetic top end.I am used to more power from my old 1 liter crotch rockets, but I have run a few other tunes on the V&H that run MUCH stronger, but still not perfect.