Yep, it's time. I'm waiting on the parts to come in for my 2003 Heritage. Doing the whole SE hydraulic upgrade, SE 204 cams, 850-1 lifters. I know many of you have done this yourselves, like I'm preparing to do. So, what did you learn, what would you different, any OH **** moments you could've avoided? Any pearls of wisdom you can pass on, I'd appreciate.

 

One little tidbit...When I'm ready to fire her up after I'm all done, I pull the plugs and let the starter roll the motor over, priming the lifters in the process. Its way quieter that way when you do fire it up for real the first time.

 

Did the Hydro upgrade with 203 cams on my 03 Night Train. Stiggy's advice is spot-on. I would also advice:

-Pre-oil the lifters prior to installing. There are Youtube videos illustrating this.

-Install new Cam bearings.

-Use a new "O" ring in the oil pump.

-It is imperative that the Oil Pump is aligned and centered properly.

Take your time and use plenty of assembly lube.

 

I think the 204's have an excellent exhaust note. Post pics of your process and tell us how you like it.

 

Make sure you know how to find top dead center on the compression stroke. People get this screwed up all the time. You don't say if you are using adjustable pushrods. If you are make sure you understand how to find zero lash before adjusting them and make sure you can spin the push rod you just adjusted before adjusting the next one or turning the engine. This is another step that a lot of people do wrong. Good luck with your project

 

Fuel moto has videos for doing the cams and adjusting the push rods, I watched them before I installed new cams and quick adjust push rods.

 

I am using the SE tapered adjustable push rods. This is the step I'm most uncertain about. I'll check out the videos online. Thanks. I was going to try the pull the plugs, put your finger over the hole and rotate the rear tire method.

Is the oil pump alignment tool Harley sells worth it? Seems a bit like overkill, the alignment of the pump is critical from what I understand, but certainly there has to be a method for proper alignment without buying a tool that looks like a glorified center punch ?

 

Agreed!!!! I went with the Andrew's conversion with the 26N cams. Couldn't be happier with the ease of installation and the end results. I put on one of Jerzee Customs oil pressure gauge just because I am paranoid!

 

That method is not nearly accurate enough for me. Watch or use your fingers to feel the exhuast lifter go up and then start back down. At the point where the intake lifter just starts to go up and the exhaust lifer is still coming down you are at TDC on the "opposite" cylinder. On the pump alignment the tappered pins help make sure the pump is centered. I would use them regardless of what anybody might say. You just screw em in finger tight and rotate the rear wheel. Then install the bolts in the opposite holes and snug em down lightly. Remove pins and install bolts and snug em down lightly. Then torque all 4 with a torque wrench. Later model bikes don't require the pins due to a redesign. If you cannot borrow the pins from a friend I can sell you mine cheap as I don't plan on owning an earlier model bike. Best of luck.

 

Have your heads done while they are off. I had SE heads on the build but they were stock. I took it back down and had them flowed, ported and polished with new bigger valves. 1 of the best things done to this bike. Just my 0.02!

EDIT: And yes, new bearings as someone else pointed out.