Metallic sounding Bang when starting
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,549
Likes: 18
From: Upstate SC
Metallic sounding Bang when starting
Few months ago, I got a 2001 FLSTC with Big bore kit and lots of upgraded parts, oil pump, cams etc. Changed exhausts, windshield a few other things and now beginning to ride the bike and check everything out since the weather is warmer.
I've noticed that sometimes when just hitting the start button, the bike begins to turn over then there is a pretty solid bang, metallic sounding on left side, followed by a delay and then the bike will start. Happens more on a cold engine.
After doing some searches, I'm thinking this may be the compensator?? Not familiar with the earlier compensator issues. I have had the comp replaced on my 2010 with the latest SE comp under ESP. Is this something I can check or fix myself?
How do I go about checking and or correcting the issue? Any other potential issues I should be looking for? Other than that, the bike seems to run and perform very well.
I've noticed that sometimes when just hitting the start button, the bike begins to turn over then there is a pretty solid bang, metallic sounding on left side, followed by a delay and then the bike will start. Happens more on a cold engine.
After doing some searches, I'm thinking this may be the compensator?? Not familiar with the earlier compensator issues. I have had the comp replaced on my 2010 with the latest SE comp under ESP. Is this something I can check or fix myself?
How do I go about checking and or correcting the issue? Any other potential issues I should be looking for? Other than that, the bike seems to run and perform very well.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Your comp. nut is likely loose. Don't try to tighten it, for nine bux, just buy a new one. Clean the threads on the output shaft real good with brake-cleaner, then red-locktite the new nut on. Very tight. Don't have my manual, but I think it's 260 lb. ft.
Make sure there's no groove in cut on your alternator-rotor. If there is, you'll need to replace that too...
Make sure there's no groove in cut on your alternator-rotor. If there is, you'll need to replace that too...
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,549
Likes: 18
From: Upstate SC
Haven't checked yet but should have time this week. I'll post back. I thought about replacing the battery but it hasn't shown any other signs of going out.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,492
Likes: 19
From: Illinois
Honestly? It's really hard to tell from here. It could any one of 5 or 6 things. To me, the one thing a loud metal bang isn't, is good. If you have the skills and tools, tear it down. If not find a good Indy.
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,549
Likes: 18
From: Upstate SC
Not a loose Comp Nut. Removed the primary cover and checked everything. All tight and everything looks like new. Tested the battery with a tester and it checks out OK but I'm wondering if it is weak. Motor has big bore kit so I'm wondering if maybe it is kickback on cold start. Normally see that when hot...
Now to top it off, it hasn't done it lately.
Now to top it off, it hasn't done it lately.
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Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
Likes: 8
From: southern IL
I went through this dilemma a few years back. At this point with the symptoms you describe, it's the compensator kickng back. However, you don't know which. I think it could be either weak battery or compensator, and there's not really a good check to see which it is, and here's why. When the battery's weak, it turns over slowly and the compensator kicks back, like it's designed to do. If the compensator is loose, it'll kick back more often than usual on starting.
Now, I'm a math guy. What's the chances of a compensator coming loose at 200+ ft/lbs torque? What are the chances of the battery being worn out? How old is the battery? When's the last time the compensator was taken out with that engine work being done? Weigh your options and make a first choice. Worst case scenario is you spend twice as much and fix something that's not broken.
Money wise, a new battery at HD is about $100. Autozone, $50. Compensator is a $10 bolt, then $20 of fluid and a $20 gasket. So, either way it's not a big expense. Doing both because you picked the wrong one, eh...
Now, I'm a math guy. What's the chances of a compensator coming loose at 200+ ft/lbs torque? What are the chances of the battery being worn out? How old is the battery? When's the last time the compensator was taken out with that engine work being done? Weigh your options and make a first choice. Worst case scenario is you spend twice as much and fix something that's not broken.
Money wise, a new battery at HD is about $100. Autozone, $50. Compensator is a $10 bolt, then $20 of fluid and a $20 gasket. So, either way it's not a big expense. Doing both because you picked the wrong one, eh...