Hydraulic Clutch Conversion
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
Hydraulic Clutch Conversion
Been looking in to converting to a hydraulic clutch for the Lo. I have checked out Joker, Roland Sands, PM. HHI and some of the other more "economical" stuff on eBay. I have priced the stock set up from HD as well, and its not as expensive as I thought it would be. At this point I'm leaning toward the side cover from Trask.
Those that have done this mod which parts did you go with and why?
Those that have done this mod which parts did you go with and why?
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 634
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
I went with PM slave cylinder and HD master cylinder from a CVO. I did this on a 2010 deluxe. You will also need to get a new clutch switch if you are gonna use your stock control switches. If you do not you will throw a code because your bike will think you are riding around with the clutch pulled in. This part also came from a CVO bike. I can get part #s for you later. I love it and am glad I did it.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
I have already picked up a master cylinder from a 2014 Street Glide, I need to look into the clutch switch, it's going to be different from the cable one? My other concern about this is my bike is a Can-bus system (2011). Thanks for the heads up, now more research.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 634
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
You will need a new lever as well. I know that with the PM slave you will reuse the push rod, thrust washers, throw out bearing, and retainer ring. I do not know about the HD slave. It may be all new parts, as in a completely new mechanism. IDK. Ive been very happy with PM. Just get a close look at where your lever presses the clutch switch and then go look at a 2014 street glide and do the same. Mine was the opposite. So basically my stock lever pressed the clutch switch when pulled in allowing me to start the bike in gear. When I switched to hydraulic, the new lever pressed the clutch switch when released, therefore causing the bike to think I was riding with the clutch pulled in and not starting anymore in gear with lever pulled in because the bike thought the lever was released. Hopefully this makes sense. The clutch switch that I needed for my bike was only $28 from HD. I think you'll like it no matter which brand you choose.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
I really like the way yours turned out, it's very clean and it was definitely an influence in my decision to run my bars internal.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
You will need a new lever as well. I know that with the PM slave you will reuse the push rod, thrust washers, throw out bearing, and retainer ring. I do not know about the HD slave. It may be all new parts, as in a completely new mechanism. IDK. Ive been very happy with PM. Just get a close look at where your lever presses the clutch switch and then go look at a 2014 street glide and do the same. Mine was the opposite. So basically my stock lever pressed the clutch switch when pulled in allowing me to start the bike in gear. When I switched to hydraulic, the new lever pressed the clutch switch when released, therefore causing the bike to think I was riding with the clutch pulled in and not starting anymore in gear with lever pulled in because the bike thought the lever was released. Hopefully this makes sense. The clutch switch that I needed for my bike was only $28 from HD. I think you'll like it no matter which brand you choose.
I need to run to HD today anyway so I will take a look, thanks for the info.
Last edited by Fat11Lo; Jul 3, 2015 at 07:14 AM.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,492
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From: Illinois
Thank you Fat11lo. Compliments from other bikers count the most. I love the clutch, its right now and very precise. If I knew I liked it as much as I do I would have put one on even with stock bars. If your going to do it make sure you stagger your wire splicing so it will pull through the bars much more easily.
When doing my bike I set out to make it low, long and stream line. I didn't want crap hanging out or all over it. Pulling my light bar and going with internals has really pulled that off, IMHO.
When doing my bike I set out to make it low, long and stream line. I didn't want crap hanging out or all over it. Pulling my light bar and going with internals has really pulled that off, IMHO.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 695
Likes: 50
From: South Carolina
Fat11Lo. Hope you don't mind if i piggyback on your thread. I have wanted to do this for years but couldn't ever get any solid info to make me go in this direction. I am wanting to go the PM route. PM clutch slave, PM countour controls and run the hydraulic lines for the clutch/front brake through the bars. Where I really need the help is locating the right hoses and fittings. Last time I tried researching this I kept seeing something about the hoses being reccomended for "show" only. I didn't want to go through all this trouble and find out that the hoses would be a constant issue especially if they would be run through the bars.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 634
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
Switch is in same location. What was normally closed with stock setup was open with hydraulic setup and vise versa. Good luck and let us know how you like it once all set up.