Originally Posted by LA_Dog

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[[UPDATED March 13 2017]]
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Thread and DIY / HOW TO discussion on getting rid of the factory too tall gearing and improving rear wheel TQ / acceleration by up to 13%.

In short, upgrading your belt pulleys on 2007-up bikes will make your bike faster and accelerate harder. If you have a cam or stage4 upgrade, this will also greatly benefit the overall performance gain. It is the single best 'bang for buck' upgrade on newer bikes in regards to performance gain vs $ spent. There is no associated reduction in MPG and no high revving rpms - Unless of course, you end up with "happy wrist", which will probably be the case here - E.g., you'll actually be able to pass a car in 6th by rolling on without downshifting!

See this informative short post by JimGnitecki who recently did the 30/70 pulley upgrade on his SE Stage IV Breakout. He evaluated MPG / rideability results and it is impressive. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post15022724

HD bikes from 2007-up come from the factory geared too tall on the final drive belt pulleys to help meet ever stricter EPA (and other various) regs. This makes the bike feel pokey and slow in all gears, since the factory rear trans/wheel pulley drive ratio was designed for low emissions, low noise. We can easily get back this stolen power & acceleration at reasonable cost / effort, by changing the front & rear belt pulley sizes to a slightly shorter ratio. This thread will help provide the required DIY and parts info to help you along with the upgrade process. there is NO downside to doing this and No re-tuning of bike needed.

The below upgrades are applicable to all softail / dyna non-touring bikes from 2007 and up (the year HD switched to the lame 32/66 pulleys). I am hoping at some point the touring guys can add their pulley upgrade info to this thread as well. Touring bikes can upgrade but will lose the IDS.

DYNA RIDERS! The info below is relevant to you, and you should also visit this other thread for additional Dyna-specific info. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...retted-it.html

There are three pulley upgrade combos that work easily on all softail / dyna with the stock length belts (131t, 132t, 133t)- Best suggested upgrade for the efforts are the 30/68 and 30/70 combos. The 32/70 is NOT suggested as it is too close of a fit and generally a pain, see 2 below. An additional 30/66 combo (6.06% improvement) will only work on Dyna bikes with the 131t belt.

• 1> 32t front pulley (stock), and 68t rear pulley (from a 2011-up XL1200 sportster for bikes with 24mm or 1" belt, or from a 2004-2006 Sportster or 2006 Dyna for 1-1/8" belts) - Average upgrade cost = $200-$300, much less if you DIY the labor
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• 2> 32t front pulley (stock), and 70t rear pulley (from a 2004-2006 FLHT or 2006 Dyna, or aftermarket billet pulley, most all of these are going to be 1-1/8" pulleys which is ok for 20mm, 24mm, 1" or 1-1/8" belts) ** you need to have .61" (roughly 5/8") of available forward swingarm slot adjustment for this to work, see how to measure in post #2** - Average upgrade cost = $200-$700, much less if you DIY the labor and score a deal on the pulley. Billet pulleys can cost upwards of $500. Sometimes you find them on ebay for $100 range new.
  **Breakout owners - 2013 bikes with 133t belt should be ok. 2014 and later bikes went to a 132t belt- Your stock rear tire WILL RUB on the inner fender liner with 32/70 - I would suggest either waiting to do the 30t front pulley with the 70t rear, or do the 30/68 pulley combo. No rubbing issue with a 32/68 and 132t belt if you are waiting to do the 30t front later.
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• 3> 30t front pulley (from a tri-glide), and 68t rear pulley as above in #1 - Average upgrade cost = $700-$900, much less if you DIY the labor and score a deal on the pulley parts. Dealer labor is about the $300-$400 range, front pulley about $80, rear pulley $100-$500
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• 4> 30t front pulley as above, and 70t rear pulley as above in #2 - Average upgrade cost = same as #3
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• 5> 30t front pulley as above, and 66t stock rear pulley (Dyna 131t belt only) - Average upgrade cost = same as #3 minus cost / labor of rear pulley
  

#1 Equals a 3% increase in rear wheel TQ *minor benefit* > 32/68t pulley upgrade, Go to Post #2 below
#2 Equals a 6.07% increase in rear wheel TQ *decent benefit* > 32/70t pulley upgrade, Go to Post #2 below
#3 Equals a 9.9% increase in rear wheel TQ *awesome benefit* > 30t front / 68t rear pulley upgrade, Go to Post #3 below
#4 Equals a 13.1% increase in rear wheel TQ *awesome benefit* > 30t front / 70t rear pulley upgrade, Go to Post #4 below
#5 Equals a 6.67% increase in rear wheel TQ *decent benefit* > 30/66t pulley upgrade, not entirely covered here but post #3 below is very close.

Doing any of these pulley upgrades will require a Powervision or other aftermarket tuner that can modify the speedometer pulse per km so everything reads accurately. I have put the correct speedometer correction setting in each of the specific upgrade posts below.

Generally, to fix your speedometer value all you have to do is look at your stock 'Speedometer Correction' number (VSS), and multiply it by the ratio change to get the new proper valie.
Example: 30/70 is a 13.1% change so you multiply your stock number by 1.131 to get the new number. for the 32/68, multiply your stock number by 1.03, for 32/70 multiply stock number by 1.0607, for 30/68 multiply stock number by 1.097.
If your speedometer reads slightly fast compared to actual speed, lower the number by 10 and re-test.
If your speedometer reads slightly slow compared to actual speed, raise number by 10 and re-test.

I'm mainly going to cover final drive belt pulley upgrades since I have done #1,#3 and #4 myself. Anyone else please feel free to add your upgrades including primary gear ratio changes.

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If you have done this belt pulley or primary gear upgrade to your bike please post what you did, year / model of your bike and your thoughts on the upgrade.
PLEASE POST PICS AND PART NUMBERS if possible! This is an info-building thread. What you post here helps others!
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CALCULATOR for checking out the intended pulley or primary gearing changes: www.gearingcommander.com - select "harley", "softail", "Fxsb Breakout" to load the correct gearing data- the data is the same for all current FXS/FXD bikes with exception of the rear tire size- if you have a different size tire then modify the tire data.

Change the "Custom" and "current" drive pulley numbers as appropriate per screenshot below. Add in the "pitch" and length" numbers to see pulley distance changes. This will populate the page result tables with all pertinent data relating to speed, rpm, mph, etc.


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Another good gearing ratio > rpm > speed calculator, well laid out and easy to use:
http://woodsware.aciwebs.com/gears/ - load the bike selection for 2014 HD Breakout- Applicable to all years and if you change the tire size, applicable to all current FXS\FXD bikes.

Here is the STOCK gear, rpm, mph data for the stock 32/66 belt pulley combo on the Breakout. Note the max peak TQ and max peak HP rpm's - good to know.


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