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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Mike Lawless
Thanks Krustee. Pretty much where it should be. Mine is about 1/2 to 3/4".

That's why I think it has the larger diameter master on it. So, the question remains...Is there a way to tell which master it is from the outside?
Take the master cylinder off the bar, it's on the inside. T25 on the gauge pod and T27 on the perch. You should have a 9/16. Quick and easy.

 
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:31 PM
  #12  
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Thanks Nomad. Exactly what I was looking for!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:35 PM
  #13  
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^^ Nice one Nomad
 
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:39 PM
  #14  
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I'm still in the hole around here. I've been helped more than I've returned the favor. Don't forget about that fragile brake switch in there.

Let us know how it turns out Mike.
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Apr 6, 2016 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 03:53 PM
  #15  
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One other thing Mike, if one of your caliper pistons was seized it might act the same way. Less stopping power and less fluid volume. Just a thought.

Dan
 
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 07:01 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Krustee. Yeah, that is good. I did a rebuild on that caliper when I did the pads and rotor.

I looked at the markings when I got back home, and it is marked 9/16" so I can quit wondering.

So it looks like in order to get more stopping power from the front, I'll need to look at some other options.
Just get used to it, or,
Closer reach levers may increase my leverage, or,
Six piston calipers, or,
Get one of those squeeze gizmos to build up my grip strength. But my right forearm is already bigger than my left, and I think my muscle building days are long passed.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 12:42 AM
  #17  
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^ or try the different pads I suggested- just saying. HH compound pads can indeed make a difference. different levers are not a bad idea either if it fits your grip better. the Oberon levers are fairly popular since they are adjustable- pricey though. Aftermarket ergonomic shaped levers work better for me and they are not expensive. they are shaped flatter and sit inward a bit more.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 08:19 AM
  #18  
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Ok. Talked me into it! I'll get those pads ordered up. At that price, it would be foolish to overlook. Thanks for all the insight LA Dog
 
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 08:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mike Lawless

So it looks like in order to get more stopping power from the front, I'll need to look at some other options.
Just get used to it, or,
Closer reach levers may increase my leverage, or,
Six piston calipers, or,
Get one of those squeeze gizmos to build up my grip strength. But my right forearm is already bigger than my left, and I think my muscle building days are long passed.

If it turns out that everything in the brake system is up to snuff, I wonder how a 7/16 bore master cylinder (some single-disk Sportsters?) would work out?

That should provide a major increase in hydraulic advantage, along with more lever travel.
 

Last edited by Warp Factor; Apr 7, 2016 at 08:46 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #20  
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Make sure there is no brake fluid on the disc or pads. That will effect stopping distances in a negative fashion.

Change your stock brake lines for braided brake lines. The braided lines will not expand under pressure like the rubber stock ones.
 
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