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I wish that were correct in my case, I think my dash was a newer remake or something. I got it from Surdyke and used the part number that JeffriesHD1 said in his post, but there is no hole either side anywhere, probably a Made in china fab and they deleted the hole, anywho thanks for the reply!
Did you wind up drilling a hole for the reset? Wife is very interested in having me to this project on her bike some day. Any surprises that can be eliminated are a bonus.
I'll have to... the dealer let me know that the trip reset on a 2012 is on the handlebar so no hole on the dash.... maybe you could get an earlier make of the same dash with the hole, I dunno... I ordered a 2012 heritage wiring diagram book from the dealer... when it gets in and I get it working I'll leave some photos once it's working...!!!
I wish that were correct in my case, I think my dash was a newer remake or something. I got it from Surdyke and used the part number that JeffriesHD1 said in his post, but there is no hole either side anywhere, probably a Made in china fab and they deleted the hole, anywho thanks for the reply!
Found a good wiring diagram for my bike from Dakota Digital describing the colors at the end near the gas tank, but still looking for a chart or something that tells me what all the wires in the wiring harness (Part# 72658-12 Harness Instrument Console w LED) go to, any thoughts are appreciated.
Huh... that's odd, mine sure was drilled! I wonder if the newest model doesn't have the reset so they deleted it. Obviously its easy enough to drill a hole, but if my memory serves the reason it's a bit forward from where the other reset hole is due to the larger LED indicator light setup of the cat eye. You'll want to double check fitment before you drill to ensure everything is going to fit when buttoned up.
Maybe someone can take a pic of their dash and post up, I no longer have mine or I would.
As to the wiring question, I have a wiring diagram book but I'm not sure what you need, do you need to know where the wires go in the factory plug so you can wire up the dakota speedo? For instance, the pink wire is the tach wire, etc?
If so I can dig up my wiring book and probably help, let me know.
I'll have to... the dealer let me know that the trip reset on a 2012 is on the handlebar so no hole on the dash.... maybe you could get an earlier make of the same dash with the hole, I dunno... I ordered a 2012 heritage wiring diagram book from the dealer... when it gets in and I get it working I'll leave some photos once it's working...!!!
Did you order this part #?
71512-09
It has the hole pre-drilled, or at least it did when I ordered it.
Here is my thread with some pics, but unfortunately no good ones of the reset button location.
Wait, if you watch my video on my thread, the hole at 1.22 into the video, you'll see where the hole is, it's about 11 o'clock on the gauge face for reference. You can see it pretty well there.
Maybe you can return the dash you bought and get the one with the hole? If not, you can see from the video where to drill it.
The parts list I posted on here is what I bought that fit my bike so everything would work correctly on it.
I hate to see anyone having trouble, the more time you spend researching before starting a project, the better off you are. It took me a long time going thru parts list to see what I needed specifically for my bike. Somethings are the same for years and some change each year.
An example is knowing my dash had no hole in it for a reset button, so I had to go through the the different years part numbers to make sure I got the right one.
I use this link and it has been a life saver.
Even after all my research, I didn't find out until I was installing it that the stock Deluxe risers wouldn't work. Once again you'd think a Deluxe and Heritage would be the same. I found out too late there is a 2* difference in their rake. But it was for the best, I changed risers and handlebars. I love my new ones even more.
Last edited by JefferiesHD1; Nov 16, 2016 at 03:40 AM.
i just did this and i found that if you use flat head machine screws to mount the plate you give yourself more room. of course you have to drill the plate to accept the flat head screws to make them work.
also, if you use a jam nut to secure the tank mounting bolt you also get more room.
i found that if you position the dash in the perfect spot to match the tank, there is basically zero room between the dash and the mounting plate, and the plastic box holding the lights actually touched the bolts used to mount the plate. i figured this touching would be a bad thing after some vibration.
the choice of material for the plate will dictate the thickness required. this is something you dont want to bend. if it bends your dash will be stuck up off the tank and look hideous. push it back down and it will spring back up. of course the thinner the better to get more room, but it needs to be thick enough so it doesn't bend. picture someone turn the switch too hard and pulling on it.
using the flatheads and jam nut gives you just enough room that there is no touching between the dash and the mounting plate/screws/bolts.
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