I was told it wouldn't run right
#1
I was told it wouldn't run right
Ok, I'll try to explain this as best I can.
I have a 07 Heritage and I put V&H twin slash slip-ons to it a while back. I thought they a bit loud so I installed the quiet baffles also. It ran fine and I was happy but recently I ended up with a Screamin Eagle cone style air intake. I was always told that you need to put a FuelPak on it with the air intake and exhaust change so it will run without issues(because of taking in more air, etc.). Well I finally came across a FuelPak and I got to work with the install. To fast forward.......it was running just fine with the trio (mufflers, intake, and FuelPak) until the Pak took a crap and I was dead in the water on the side of the road. So, just to get it home we removed the Pak and it runs like a top without the Pak at all. The only thingon it is the mufflers and the big air intake. I was always led to believe that it would run like crap without the Pak. My only guess is maybe because of the quiet baffles???? Could that be it?.....thoughts?
I have a 07 Heritage and I put V&H twin slash slip-ons to it a while back. I thought they a bit loud so I installed the quiet baffles also. It ran fine and I was happy but recently I ended up with a Screamin Eagle cone style air intake. I was always told that you need to put a FuelPak on it with the air intake and exhaust change so it will run without issues(because of taking in more air, etc.). Well I finally came across a FuelPak and I got to work with the install. To fast forward.......it was running just fine with the trio (mufflers, intake, and FuelPak) until the Pak took a crap and I was dead in the water on the side of the road. So, just to get it home we removed the Pak and it runs like a top without the Pak at all. The only thingon it is the mufflers and the big air intake. I was always led to believe that it would run like crap without the Pak. My only guess is maybe because of the quiet baffles???? Could that be it?.....thoughts?
#2
#5
It'll run fine in the idle and light cruise areas of the map....
But once outside the closed loop portions of the map, especially at extremes (altitude, heat, aggressive riding) you'll be very lean and that could cause issues....
Plus, if properly tuned... it will just run better...
Good luck..
But once outside the closed loop portions of the map, especially at extremes (altitude, heat, aggressive riding) you'll be very lean and that could cause issues....
Plus, if properly tuned... it will just run better...
Good luck..
#6
I had the same problem with my V&H fuel pak - - was installed after adding screaming eagle slip on and screaming eagle breather.
All was fine for several days, and then on a lonely road with no shoulder, it crapped out. Removed the fuel pak and ran fine.
Because I put it on to reduce heat, and was worried, I had the dealer remap the ecm.
Sent the fuel pak back to V&H, after some time they said they were testing it, they finally sent a new one, and suggested a bit different map. New map may have been because the ecm had been remapped.
This is a 2008 Heritage.
Now getting mid 40's mpg. all the time, and sometimes a bit more.
Good luck,
Balloo
All was fine for several days, and then on a lonely road with no shoulder, it crapped out. Removed the fuel pak and ran fine.
Because I put it on to reduce heat, and was worried, I had the dealer remap the ecm.
Sent the fuel pak back to V&H, after some time they said they were testing it, they finally sent a new one, and suggested a bit different map. New map may have been because the ecm had been remapped.
This is a 2008 Heritage.
Now getting mid 40's mpg. all the time, and sometimes a bit more.
Good luck,
Balloo
#7
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#8
I wouldn't leave it as is.
Put stock A/C back on would be good
Address the tune would be better
Let your wallet be your guide....
I personally don't like piggyback tuning devices, but there are several out there that won't break the bank and seem to work well.
I'm a PowerVision fan. Download a map from a reputable tuner and run a few auto tunes and you's be just one step below a dyno tune.. but own a 1st class tuner for any future mods or future bikes...
#9
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The basics of it is stoichiometric ratio It is something like 14.7:1 or 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. So the more air in, the fuel has to be increased also. Lean= engine damage as well as too rich has its own form of damage. n The idea with carburetors is to get as close as possible to the Stoichiometric ratio, F.I. is more precise, and can get spot on , which is why the EPA loves EFI. The ideal ratio means less unburned fuel = less emissions pollution.
#10
I haven't had any luck coming across an independent so I think when the season starts winding down I'll take it to Harley and let them tune it and address a few other things. I also considered putting it back stock but don't figure I'll ride enough to make it worth while between now and then.