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Loose Compensator?

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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 03:34 PM
  #11  
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If you find the clutch hub bearings are good. +1 on Nomadmax suggestion for the comp. Nut. While you're in there. Pull the rotor and inspect stator, magnets, and output shafts splines. How many miles are on your ride?
 

Last edited by campsite21; Jul 26, 2017 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 03:41 PM
  #12  
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I should metion to take extra care and clean the old loctite off the compensator bolt thread and female threads before applying new loctite- torque
 

Last edited by campsite21; Jul 26, 2017 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 04:15 PM
  #13  
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Bike has 30,000 miles

Just drove down ​​​to a mechanic I've used for a few small things, most recently for gear drive cams. He said the symptoms sound to him like a rod bearing going out, but he's not certain. Gonna swing by an HD dealership and see for they have any thoughts tomorrow

I'm ​​​​​not gonna pull the compensator nut out just yet because I don't have a torque wrench that goes past 150 anyway. So before I go spending money on new tools, I'll get a couple more pro opinions, I guess

Or just ride this bastard till I blow it up \m/
 
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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 05:20 PM
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Well let us know what you find. My evo softail made those types of noises before my connecting rod bearings gave out. Hey, if you have a stereo on your ride, just turn it up another notch or two?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomadmax
There was a TSB for loose compensators/nuts that covered 2003-2005 models. The switch to left side roller crank bearings apparently created the problem. HD's fix was an .090" shim under the nut because it bottomed out on the crank shoulder, not the compensator. Most folks I know milled .030" of the end of the nut. Clean the threads, red loctite and torque 160 ft pounds if I remember right.
Good info, except for the torque spec...

There was a service bulletin (M-1170 / dated: May 27, 2005) that changed the torque spec for all 2003-2005 touring/softail/dyna/CVO models w/twin cam engines. . In a nutshell, it says to torque the compensator bolt to 75 ft lbs, and then tighten the nut another 45° to 50°.... they note the maximum is 50..

Should be able to find a copy of M-1170online. It spells out the procedure....
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 06:48 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by hattitude
Good info, except for the torque spec...

There was a service bulletin (M-1170 / dated: May 27, 2005) that changed the torque spec for all 2003-2005 touring/softail/dyna/CVO models w/twin cam engines. . In a nutshell, it says to torque the compensator bolt to 75 ft lbs, and then tighten the nut another 45° to 50°.... they note the maximum is 50..

Should be able to find a copy of M-1170online. It spells out the procedure....
I really shouldn't have mentioned a torque spec knowing I was going from memory. What do you reckon that comes to using that procedure? 100-125?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 09:18 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Nomadmax
I really shouldn't have mentioned a torque spec knowing I was going from memory. What do you reckon that comes to using that procedure? 100-125?
I wouldn't dare hazard a guess.... I came across the service bulletin and saved it for reference, since I have an '03 Heritage.

If someone with an engineering back ground could explain the pros & cons of: full torque spec v torque plus degree of movement spec...

I'd love to know the answer....
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 09:48 AM
  #18  
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Could it be a bad lifter that's knocking? That's another place I'd check into.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 11:15 AM
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Just a omparison here, since I'm the only other person who's heard this high pitch whine before. Mine happened twice., with 7k mi on old primary fluid and both times was hot outI I also down shift to brush off speed omin to a stop.
only occurred during take offs. And it's brief.
Though I get o vibration or a y other noises.
If it happens a lot? Could be friction plates on clutch IMO
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 12:51 PM
  #20  
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Hattitude, I don't have a degree in engineering but I
thought torque sequence/degree had everything to do with friction of the threads can make torque readings vary quite a bit at higher torque values.
Example: if head bolts were over torqued, then once heat expansion occurred, the possibility of pulling out the head bolts and or blowing head gasket is greater than if you had set them to the correct sequence/degree. Hopefully someone will chime in that has more credentials than I.
 
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