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I've done a couple of "fixes". Put a nylon tie around the gaps. Even wound some cord in the same gap to slow the bleeding, but not so tight as to restrict the front tire's fall away from neutral when testing the bearing pre-load. There may be some sort of velcro tape that could be used.
Local dealer told me once that the Special Grease was formulated to not affect the steering...whatever that meant. Last time I used a thick tacky red grease made for farm and trucking equipment and it stayed put (https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease).
PA1195, I use a marine grade also. I didn't want to name it and have the purist jump on me. The stuff I use is formulated for high temp and waterproof, and used on wheel bearings for the boat trailer. I understand the theory of light grease in the steering head and all that jazz, but it's not practical if the conditions change. Of course at the arctic circle you may not have that problem. There is a test center up there for the other end of the spectrum. In general I love my HD, and I've owned them all. I particularly love the way the've seemed to seal up the engine and trans to stop the drips, at least on mine. So I don't mind wiping down excess from a grease gun jockey, just keeping it off the paint. I'd be looking at that clutch cable routing on the new slim and figure out how to get it off the tank.
For a few Touring bikes back that still had the steering neck grease zerk fitting I counted the pumps from my grease gun to fill the cavity...somewhere north of 50 until it started to ooze out. Probably varies with gun. I don't think the idea is to completely fill the cavity just add enough to offer lube to the bearings. So how much? Less than I put in.
I suspect the HD Special Lube will drip oil if too much is present and high temps encourage that.
I think the maintenance interval is listed as every 10K miles for lube if a zerk is available and 25-30K for disassembly and lube if no zerk present. My 2017 FLSTN still has a grease zerk.
My goal on low mileage bikes is to exclude water and prevent corrosion. With high miles it's probably best to pull the bearings and have a look then re-lube if all ok and set the pre-load per specs.
A simple O-ring in the upper and lower steering head gaps could accomplish that but would require disassembly.
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