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Drove up to the dealership today to get in some demo rides. I'd been wanting a 114 Heritage but wasn't having any luck finding one. They had a silver 107 which I took for a ride and really liked. Struck a deal and rode it home.
It has Street Cannon slip-ons installed but is stock otherwise. The check engine light came on during the ride home which I'm assuming is from the slip-ons. It didn't come on during the demo rides.
I've got a Ventilator coming in the mail as part of the deal on the bike. My question is should I be running the Street Cannons on the stock tune with the 107? Will the Ventilator require a Stage 1 download in conjunction with the mufflers? Bike runs fine, but the check engine light on a brand new bike is obviously annoying. The salesman told me the bike would "learn" with the Ventilator and Street Cannons without having to do the Stage 1. ??
I'm going to consider doing the 114 upgrade with the torque came before the 90 day warranty window is up but in the mean time I'd like to get this check engine light squared away. Dealership is a two hour ride in each direction so I can't just drop it off and have them troubleshoot.
Can anyone tell me the procedure for viewing and clearing the code(s) on these new bikes?
If it ends up needing a stage 1 EMC reflash, they're going to bring their enclosed trailer and pick it up and deliver it back to me. No way in hell I'm riding it back up there and back after they installed the slip ons on their own accord. I didn't even pay for them, but I do like them.
When you pay roughly twenty thousand dollars for a motorcycle and it throws a code on the way home, there is only one thing to do. Turn it around since it is obviously under warranty.
You should have bought the bike you wanted as a factory 114â costs less than getting your 107â upgraded to a 114â. The bore is only slightly larger on the 114â and the biggest difference is a longer stroke. That means full disassembly of the engine.
Honestly, try to trade the bike in for the one you want since it already has a problem.
I think it would be cheaper to swap the tins over than to upgrade your 107 to a 114.
Don't know if this applies to 2018's. W/O an ignition switch I assume the run/off now activates the electronics if the fob is close? The circle faced button on the left switch gear that changes the display should be held in and then the bike placed in run mode via the right switchgear? Cycling through the diagnostic code list below might work. Just a guess until I get mine.
I agree the dealer should pick it up and sort it out.
As best I know, the factory 114" bikes have the longer stroke. Which means you can always add more bore later.
The 107 to 114" kit is jugs and bored out pistons. No change to stroke, so difficult to get more bore later on without boring cases.
I agree that you should have the dealer sort it out - but also think that if you want a 114" motor you should get the factory installed version as it will give more flexibility down the road if you want to go 124" for example....
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